I bought a used 16’ Wenonah Aurora last Fall. It has one quarter-sized scrape on the side. It has scraped-off the outer shell and the white layer underneath is showing.
There are some long scratches that are not through the outer shell, but certainly notice them visually.
What is the right way to repair the deeper gouge?
What is the best way to return the entire hull to its former luster? It’s all just kinda ‘dull’ right now.
Thank you!
Royalex or composite
If the boat is Royalex, the areas that show white are places where the outer vinyl color coat of the Royalex has been scraped off. Unless there was prolonged abrasion at these spots, the structural components (the solid ABS strata and the foam core) of the Royalex are probably fully intact. It is a good idea to cover these areas with a spray paint that approximates the hull color. Prolonged UV exposure of the denuded ABS will eventually weaken it, but it takes a long time.
If your boat is composite, the white areas are where the gel coat has been scraped off. Pretty much any composite canoe (other than one with a carbon outer blanket) will scratch white regardless of the color of the gel coat. The gel coat is pretty much just cosmetic so again there is probably no structural impairment.
Jamestown Distributors and marine supply stores can sell you various gel coat repair kits with pigments to try to repair deeper gouges. Some of these are just paste without catalyst and others are a two part polyester gel with catalyst. You shouldn’t expect to get an exact color match with them.
Gouges and dents in Royalex boats are pretty much expected wear and are best left alone in all but extreme cases.
Royalex boats can be made shiny again, at least for a little while, by washing them well and spraying on some 303 Aerospace Protectant or (cheaper) Armor All.
If you have a composite boat with oxidized gel coat you can improve the appearance by wet sanding the hull. You could start with something like 220 grit paper and work your way down. I would go at least as fine as 600 grit but you can go all the way to 2000 grit if you have the patience. A good polishing compound like those made by 3M applied and buffed with an automotive buffer will restore the shine.
Duct tape.
Royalex
Thanks pblanc. Sorry, I failed to state that it’s Royalex.
Glad to hear I can just paint it. It’s just a small spot.
When the weather warms-up I’ll give the whole thing a tune-up/clean-up. Varnish the wood cross members, paint the gouge, and Armor-All for a little cosmetic goodness.
I am also going to install a line from the front and rope handles perhaps (I am sure there are correct terms for this stuff but this way you can tell I am an amateur). I also have some tie-down D-Rings to install inside for lashing when I get this thing out for some longer trips.
For now, it’s about learning to get proficient handling skills and trying to get my s/o to care about technique vs just paddling without purpose…if ya know what I mean! ;^)
Thanks again.
grab loops
If your canoe lacks grab loops (most Wenonahs do) and you want to have them available to secure painters, use as anchor points for end lines for car topping, or for carrying the boat, it is easy to do on a Royalex hull as there are no flotation tanks to get in the way.
You can just drill a pair of holes through the hull at the stem back about 1 1/2" or so from the very tip. Place these high enough that your grab loop will not drag in the water when underway. Take about a foot, or a little less, of synthetic rope about 1/2" in diameter or some 1" wide webbing. Tie a figure of eight stopper knot at one end and pass it through one hole from inside out, then back through the other hole from outside in and tie another stopper knot. Alternatively, you can tie the 2 ends of the loop to each other after passing it through the 2 holes using a fisherman’s knot.
Webbing is a little easier on the hands than rope if you intend to use the grab loops as carry handles. Tie your painter on using a bowline knot.