Checking trim while in canoe

My wife and I just got a Nova Craft Bob Special and are trying to get the trim leveled out. We only use it tandem with out really packing anything. We use it on our date nights for a few hours each week just for fun on local lakes. She enjoys being in the bow and I like the stern, but we are definitely stern heavy. I’m about 225 and she is about 125. I’m planning on installing a new stern seat approximately the same location as the bow seat(canoe will be a mirror image front to back, seats will be same distance from yoke). That should get us close using the weight x distance formula. Before I drill the new location, I’d like to kneel or put a board across the gunwales in that location to double check trim. We are usually just by ourselves, so does anyone have a way to check trim while in a canoe? Sorry if it is a long post, but wanted to give the reasons why up front. Thanks in advance for any replies.

You need a third person as an observer, calm water, and some 2" tape. Float the boat empty and carefully put some tape strips near each stem so that the bottom edge of the tape strip is parallel with the water surface. Then have your wife get in the bow seat in her normal paddling posture. You get in the back, and move forward and back until the observer tells you that an equal amount of tape is showing at the bow and stern.

If you kneel, your center of gravity will be in a different location than it is when you are sitting. Be aware that whether a paddler kneels or sits, the paddler’s center of gravity will be in some position at least a bit forward of the front seat frame. Exactly where depends on things like how you use a seat for support when kneeling, how you sit on the seat, your femur length, etc. If you position seats so that the seat centers are equidistant from the center yoke, you will certainly be bow heavy.

Lacking a third person, put a quart or os of water in the boat and adjust until it pools in the middle. Or use a tennis ball (or any sort of ball) and look for the same.

I like and have used the ball method, but I’m thinking that canoe has some ribs, which might make it a little more difficult. The tape method really is the best though.

We use the tape method and many times have asked strangers to check us for trim.
After you explain why and how they usually are more than happy to help.

Have you thought of a sliding seat and a adjustable foot brace
It makes it a lot easier to adjust trim if you are carrying various items that change the trim

use a small bubble level centered on the mid section of the canoe floor perpendicular to the bow and stern . Easy to se when trimmed right

Asymmetrical hulls have asymmetrical centers of buoyancy and float in such a way that the hull bottom is not on the horizontal. Think of an LST from the second world war. In those instances, using a bubble level or judging from the location of a pool of water will not give the correct trim.

@pblanc said:
Asymmetrical hulls have asymmetrical centers of buoyancy and float in such a way that the hull bottom is not on the horizontal. Think of an LST from the second world war. In those instances, using a bubble level or judging from the location of a pool of water will not give the correct trim.

What we did on one canoe was first used the tape, and then in the water with it trim in accordance with the tape, mounted the little bubble level… The only problem was from our sitting positions we could never read the bubble. We finally removed it and went back to our old tried and true tape.

Now after many moons of paddling we can sense if we are bow light or bow heavy, but I just said to her yesterday, we haven’t checked for level in a long time, the next time out we should have someone check us.

I use a bubble level mounted just in front of the stern seat. For permanent use, I mount the level using epoxy putty, for temporary use I mount using playdough or electricians dumdum. Just float the canoe empty and adjust the level so it shows level. Its easy to see when in the canoe and does not get in the way or covered up by gear when loading. Bill

That sounds like a good alternative if you don’t have a spotter. Doesn’t assume that the hull floor is horizontal to the water surface.

I have a couple boats where I’ve used the bubble levels designed for use in leveling travel trailers. Anyplace that has stuff for travel trailers should carry them in two packs. Just stick one on some near-vertical surface on the inside of the hull anywhere that it can be easily seen from your usual paddling position. I put them in while wading next to the empty canoe on a warm calm day. Get it right on the first try - they don’t come unstuck all that easily and don’t restick as well the second time. (Don’t ask how I know this.) The left-over level can be used as an excuse to buy another canoe.

“The left-over level can be used as an excuse to buy another canoe.”

You sound like my wife !!!

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I wouldn’t move the seat forward and create a bad paddle position.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. We were able to use the tape method and had someone take pics of us with my seat in different positions. I had got an uncut seat so i put in on the gunwales and were able to adjust till the canoe looked good and we had pics to review later and check for ourselves. I like the idea of mounting a level inside when the canoe is empty for a check if we have some other weight inside the canoe.