It’s Vulpex
and comes with its own set of cautions, but your are correct that it is widely used by conservators and restorers to clean a variety of objects and artifacts.
Tung Oil
I have heard that Tung Oil is very durable but can get gummy and hard if applied too thickly. Any trick to applying it?
How DO you dispose of them
I left my rags on gravel and they got rained on(not that it affects the oil in any way) and on garbage night threw the thing in the can and put the can by the street.
There has to be a better way.
Sounds
pretty much what I do.
I found my own recipe in 2002 archives!
I thought maybe I had posted the recipe before and did a search. I didn’t know the archives went back as far as 2002, but I found it. It’s kind of poignant to me because I talk about my father’s recipe and his woodworking. He was diagnosed with Alzheimers in 2005 and although he is doing well, the disease is progressing and he doesn’t remember the fine woodworking he did, or how he did it. He used to make musical instruments, knives, furniture, anything you described to him, he could make it. He was in great demand for his exquisite work on gun stocks. He even made a set of delicate doll furniture for me when I was a child. All of these things were done “in his spare time,” after his long day was finished at the refinery, and after working in the garden or around the house. Working with his hands was an integral part of his very being, but he doesn’t remember those things now. Of course, I’ve used the recipe and couldn’t remember it, either. 
Here’s the post…
“I checked with my Dad, who is an old-timer woodworker (and boat builder).
His “recipe” is very easy to remember because it is in equal proportions of 1/3 each.
1/3 BOILED linseed oil (label must say boiled)
1/3 Turpentine
1/3 Vinegar
He says it isn’t necessary to wait to use it–ready to go as soon as mixed. Just keep stirring it up or shaking it as you use it, as it will settle.
He says it is great for restoring antique furniture that you don’t want to varnish. It cleans the wood without damaging it & restores it beautifully. He does not use it on outdoor projects and recommends that you select a product that is specifically designed for outdoor or marine use.
I’ve also used his formula to restore a beautiful antique desk, and it turned out soooooo nice!”
Jill
p.s. I used extremely fine steel wool for the applications and used cheesecloth for the final cleanup on the furniture. Thanks to all who responded.
thanks!
I was marvelling at the fact that I could still remember that name, but I guess my self-satisfaction was premature.
Excellent
Also notice that your recipe is the same as what I posted above.
just hang-em
The important thing is that they are not balled up. If they’re balled up, the decomposition of the oil gives off heat, and in a tight wad all that heat can accumulate to the point that it ignites the fumes. But if the rag is hung or laid out flat, any heat generated will just disipate harmlessly.
I hang rags from the side of the can, then the next morning they’re stiff and dry, and you can just chuck 'em in the trash.
The other alternative is to get a metal trashcan with a tight-fitting metal lid, and toss them all in there. Without oxygen they can’t ignite.
thank you…
I was a little surprised at how many formulas are out there. I just couldn’t remember which one was “mine.”
linseed oil
Just don’t use the mixture on your kayak, specially inside where access is difficult. Linseed oil tends to mold and up in the ends of the yak is impossible to remove.
Bill H.
Use a soft cloth
to apply it and then let it dry a bit before gently rubbing it in.
If the wood surface has been weatherbeaten or real dry the next day give it another coat.
I have never had trouble with it becoming sticky.
cheers,
JackL
I just get it over with and burn 'em
as soon as I’m done with them. I toss them into a Weber chimney charcoal starter in the driveway and light them.
Pine Tar???
The traditional mix for old time wooden boatbuilders was linseed oil, turpentine and pine tar. It has a wonderful smell and does a great job.
Your dad may not remember the name, but he might remember the smell. I have read claims that smells awaken more memories than other senses, and it is certainly true for me.
boatbuilders mix with pine tar
The mix with pine tar was used inside workboats. It works very well to preserve the wood. It also turns the inside of the boat brown/black over time.
Another boatbuilders mix that looks better on recreational boats is oil, terp and oil based spar varnish. Considerations with the oil part of the mix are that boiled linseed is cheaper and tung oil darkens less over time, but is much more costly. The percentages of each ingredient vary with every user. A mix that was used on a fine lapstrake skiff I have was 60% boiled linseed, 40% terp and 10% varnish.
Dave
The varnish that gives you 110%! 
I use it too
Carl’s Paddlin in Madison WI used to sell it but I think they had to stop - not sure why.
Yep - it’s 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 distilled white vinegar, and 1/3 mineral spirits. Works great and it’s about all I’ve used on my boats for 15 years.
Carl’s called it Gunnel Lotion.
boiled linseed oil + turpentine + ???
How about: “Mary Roalman finish … consists of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and natural varnish.” http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/guide-to-furniture-finishes-ga6.htm
response to question
I have used the combination of equal parts turpentine, linseed oil and mineral spirits to rejuvenate wooden rockers and my kitchen cabinets. It works great! It was dry in a few days and really brings out the wood grain. Good Luck!