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Tips for Noob in a Sea Kayak?

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Comments

  • Boat Balance
    I prefer the way my boat behaves after I moved the seat back. I like the bow to ride over waves rather than punch into them. If you don't like it, put a bottle of water in your forward hatch.
  • Test the seat position -
    lossen your back band an inch and scooch your butt back an inch an see how it feels.
  • Options
    .
    I can't be on the water all the time, so it's nice to DISCUSS this stuff here. :)

    I'm going to head out either this afternoon or tomorrow afternoon, and I'll take the Tempest. I have some welding to do on that rack I bought last night before it'll carry anything.

    I wanted to take the Tempest to the rescue class, but they don't allow it since it's in a pool; you have to use theirs. I'll try to get a smaller model to practice in if possible.

    I'm surprised nobody has made a seat slider mechanism for a kayak yet... just like they have in cars. It's not like it'd weigh much, I figure half a pound.

    Anyway... I'm enjoying the testing out of the various boats, and I appreciate all the feedback!

    Rob
  • Slider seats in kayaks
    -- Last Updated: Oct-09-12 10:38 PM EST --

    Might even exist for racing, as I recall they can be found in some pack canoes. But in both of these cases the assumption is that the paddler is going to be fairly unlikely to be throwing deep braces or rolls for the hell of it, or playing in rock gardens.... places where a slider seat would not be helpful, could be a real problem.

    If you are talking about the ability to move the seat between fixed positions, that all happens from the top as you will be doing. (oops, I may be wrong there. See next reply.)

    As to using the Tempest - have you told them what boat you have? Sometimes those rules, at least if you are talking about outside use, are there because they don't want people bringing inappropriately outfitted rec boats into a sea kayaking class. They may be fine with your bringing in a boat like the Tempest as long as they have a couple of minutes to make sure all the parts are properly attached, like perimeter line, before the class.

    Pool sessions are another matter - between pool rules and space it is more usual than not to be restricted to the boats that are already provided. But outside classes are usually more about the setup of the boat.

  • Confluence seat attachments
    As previously noted, the Tempest has a set of holes in the seat pan, for attachment. I recently got a Wavesport WW boat, sister brand to Wilderness Systems. Similar seat pan. Only difference in attachment is that the seat pan is slotted, and, instead of individual nuts, there's a single, threaded backer plate to accomodate both machine screws. So, it's easy to adjust, with just a Phillips screwdriver. Loosen --> slide seat --> tighten. So, they _could_ make it that easy on the sea kayaks, but just don't see it as necessary.
  • Options
    Pool

    Yeah they know what kind of boat it is. It has to do with cleanliness. They have a separate batch of boats specifically for the pool, that never go in the river.

    They said I would be welcome to do the class in it if it were in the river, but those classes won't be offered again until next Summer when the water warms back up.

    So I'll just ask them to put me in a small one if possible.

    Rob
  • Try this
    I have to apologize - I read the above post a little too quickly and missed full attention to the pool part. Just tell them you want a fit that will be closer to that of you in the Tempest 165 than something bigger. Really, gravity does work upside down.

    I strongly suggest that you pick up nose plugs and/or full goggles. There tend to be two new discoveries when you are upside down in a boat, a spot that they may ask you to stay in for a count of 5 or 10 just to make sure you are staying calm. (and being able to do that is a pre-req for rolling anyway) One is that water comes into your nose upside down in ways it never does in normal swimming, and the other is that pool water hurts some people like the dickens when it gets well up their sinuses. If you are one of those people (like me) it can really mess up an otherwise fun evening of getting wet.
  • Options
    plugs
    Good idea; I will get nose plugs.

    Until I get in the water and see what the chlorine content is, I won't know how much it'll affect me. I grew up swimming in chlorinated pools so I got used to it, having my eyes open underwater, etc. Not gonna be the case in the ocean (salt) but in the pool, it'll do.

    In time I'll have to get used to not having nose plugs though, since you never really know when you're going under.. not exactly time to stop and put them in. :)

    I'm heading out tomorrow after lunch.. taking the Tempest out this time. Will report back when I return.

    Rob
  • Use of nose plugs
    It is always good if you can get used to the sinus hit without them, but I wouldn't discard them. In salt water, they tend not to be needed anyway. Salt water is automatically kinder and more natural feeling up in there anyway. The only time I have used nose plugs in salt water was when I was being asked to do something like alter my approach to bracing, when I was just getting a ton of closely spaced rolling moments until I got it down. There is a point of just having so much water and discharge running out of your nose every time you come up it is annoying.

    Fresh water is another matter, and in WW groups you will often see people going thru rapids with nose plugs on. But WW runs tend to organize themselves so that it is reasonable to pop on a set of nose plugs before a given rapid. That's why you will sometimes see them attached to a helmet.

    The salt water rush when you capsize in surf was, for me, very distracting at first because the first rush is so strong. But it is still salt water, so it is tolerable if you can hold off thru that initial hit to get your moment to roll.
  • boat choice
    For initial pool sessions I wouldn't worry about using a boat similar to the one you own. Find one in which you have a fairly snug fit.

    When you initially get in a snug-fitting boat it may feel like you will have difficulty getting out of it upside down. I think you will find that when you are inverted, pop the skirt and everything is wet, you will be able to slide out just fine. The water lubricates everything and gravity is more or less working in your favor or is not a factor, since you will be essentially weightless in the water.

    A snug fit will allow your lower body movements to be more effectively translated to the boat for bracing, rolling, and bow rescues. Once you have worked on these in the pool, you will be more comfortable doing the same with your boat in protected, outdoor waters.
  • Options
    masks are great for lots of practice
    I use nose plugs for casual practice and nothing for combat rolls. But if doing lots of rolling like in a class a mask is very nice. nose plugs slip off and eyes can burn a bit after lots of dunkings. A dive type mask won't slip off the nose and gives you crystal clear vision to help you stay relaxed and do things like follow a blade while rolling.
  • damn you done good so far...
    -- Last Updated: Oct-12-12 11:17 AM EST --

    You started off well. Nice purchase!

    I'd echo what jay posted: wear your pfd. And learn a wet exit ASAP - if the water's cold and you have the right protection, you'll be fine - maybe splash some cold water on the back of your neck to minimize the shock.

    After a wet exit I'd do what Hutchinson recommended and learn to be comfortable upside-down in your boat. wear a mask and noseplugs, use a snorkel with an extension if necessary - whatever it takes to gain that comfort. That will help you with rolls.

    Next I'd learn a good forward stroke and commit it to memory.

    Next I'd just get out and paddle often which sounds like it won't be a problem! Then you're on to either lessons or instruction regarding edging, low and high bracing, rolls, corrective strokes and so on. You'll need all of these to get out in unprotected water but if you have the desire you'll do it.

    You sound just like me when I went from a rec kayak to sea kayaking, except you gave yourself a better start with gear.

  • Options
    Rescue!
    I just got home a little while ago from my Rescue Class. It was held in a fitness club's heated pool, which is great, since the water temps in the Willamette River this time a year are probably lower 50's by now.

    The boats they used are all the same... Custom Designs plastic boats, and from what I can tell, they're right in between my Tempest 165 and Essence 17 in terms of size/volume. They were 13-14' boats, since there's only so much room in the pool.

    At the other end of the pool was the rescue class. They used the same boats too, so I know what I'll be in two weekends from now when I have that class.

    Anyway... I picked up nose plugs, which are a good thing. They don't stay on well, but that's okay. They protect the initial sinus drenching. I wore mine the first two times, then forgot them the third time and that wasn't terribly pleasant. So I stuck with them for subsequent dunkings.

    Wet exits are pretty straight forward. It does feel a little odd being upside down, but I have no trouble reaching the "ejection strap" as I call it. The main thing was learning to relax and do what I needed to do rather than being in a rush to get out.

    During one rescue attempt (when I was the rescuer), due to a poor hold on the other boat, I ended up going over. What's interesting is that I capsized while leaning backward. So it took a moment to realize I had to bend forward and grab the strap to get out, since my initial reaction was surprise, especially when I didn't come right out. That was a good thing to experience in a controlled environment, especially since it was unplanned and without nose plugs.

    I was really glad to get experience with the self-rescues, since I will be paddling alone most of the time, up until I get into ocean paddling sometime next Summer. I liked the paddle float method best. She taught us the cowboy method too, but I wouldn't attempt it unless it was an emergency or warm weather (and in flatwater), because it's waaaay too much work/exhausting to have to do more than once.

    And, while it may not be as comfortable, it's best to have your PFD snugged up as much as you can stand it before you go in the water. It makes all the difference when you're all wet and bobbing about. :)

    Tomorrow, unless the weather totally sucks, I'm going to see about moving the seat in the Tempest back a little bit. I think that'll do the trick. The Custom Designs boat I was in today actually had a fore/aft seat adjustment!! So yeah, time to do that, get used to the Tempest, and sell off the other one, and use the money to buy a dry suit. This wet suit crap isn't gonna cut it for winter paddling. :)

    Rob

  • Hood, gloves and a big jacket or cag too
    Extremities tend to be a problem, and when you do need to stop in cold weather you'll want to add a layer.

    I would suggest that you take a little more time messing with the cowboy if you have it. The Tempest is a friendly boat for that, and once you are in cold water you run into the issue of hands that start to get uncooperative. The cowboy, once mastered, is less dependent on having all the fingers working well than messing with a paddle float.

    Sounds like you had a good time.
  • Options
    cowboy

    That's a good point. I'll have to try it with the Tempest when I can. I'm not going to willingly dump in the cold water (at least not until I have a dry suit), so it'll have to wait til warmer weather, or if I somehow manage to get it into a pool.

    Now, that being said, if I do happen to go over on my own, I now will probably try the cowboy at least once just to get the heck out of the cold water quickly. :)

    The boats we used there in the pool seemed very tippy. VERY easy to capsize, and very easy to tip 'em over when climbing back in. I don't recall my two boats have much better initial stability.

    BTW, I wrote a blog post about both of my classes... they're up here: http://robgadv.wordpress.com with more detail than I posted here. Even some photos.

    Rob
  • Bow rescue
    What you term an "assisted roll" in your blog is more widely known as a bow rescue or "Eskimo rescue".
  • Options
    heel hook
    -- Last Updated: Oct-15-12 2:30 PM EST --

    nice blog report. Like many, you found the heel hook difficult but with just a bit of practice it actually takes less physical effort. I learned to use the outside and not inside leg in the cockpit first. I think it's easier that way. The key is to elongate your body by reaching for your rescuer's boat near the stern of your boat. This avoid the butt hanging far out requiring more effort for you and torquing the boat more for the rescuer -- you want your body more flush with your boat as you roll in. The heel hook rescue is especially good for anyone that is either weak upper body or large upper body.

  • Tippiness
    -- Last Updated: Oct-15-12 4:01 PM EST --

    EVERYONE recapsizes a lot when they are first learning self-rescues, in just about all of the rescues. Balance has to be learned.

    Re the Cowboy, getting over the back of the boat gets fairly simple in a kayak like the Tempest once you get your balance down enough that you can start well to the back of the boat. The further back you are, the easier it is to get over the boat because you can actually push it under you.

    The downside of this is that, the further back you go to make it easy to get securely over the boat, the further you have to go without capsizing to make it into the cockpit. Hence the reason I have said that lower decked boats are better in this regard - lower center of gravity, closer to the water, you have a little more head room before you are swimming again.

    There is a basic trick that you really should experiment with when the water temps and your clothing agree. That is to take the boat into fairly shallow water, so that you aren't killing yourself dumping out the water after every capsize, and literally climb around on the top of the boat. Stern to bow, sit up on the deck, turn around while sitting up, learn to use your paddle to help as a slight outrigger without a paddle float on it... once you can manage this all of the self-rescues get much easier.

    I haven't looked at your blog yet, but you should also start to use the correct terms for things. Otherwise you will get a lot of terribly misdirected advice.

  • Options
    cowboys
    I've found you need to experiment and find the one spot that is best for you in your boat to climb up. As said further back is less effort but more balance so you need to find the happy medium for you. The higher the deck the further back you may need to go, but further back is both more tippy and requires a longer journey to the cock pit. Personally I like to come up as far back as possible and yet still just being able to reach the cockpit with my hand. This way once on the deck my hand on the cockpit helps me start working forward. The other key is to get the hang of getting your belly button over the deck in one move then turn and keep moving to the cockpit -- this require practice to make that first push is just big enough without throwing yourself over the far side (a bit more rare). Experiment and learn where on the boat and how big a lunge to first make. For many I would also suggest using the paddle float but try to put less and less pressure on the paddle. Eventually many paddlers don't even bother bringing the paddle float.
  • The Absolute Best
    self rescue is a roll. The second best is a re-enter and roll. The best way to avoid needing a rescue is a strong, reliable brace. Learn those things early on. After awhile they aren't just skills but a lot of fun.
  • Options
    bracing
    I've been practicing braces already. I rather like them. Especially yesterday in the pool... while waiting around watching the other two guys rescue each other, I would practice tipping and bracing.

    BTW, I moved the Tempest seat back tonight. I ended up moving it back one bolt hole, so that I'm only using one bolt per side. I decided this was better than drilling another hole. I still have to put some sealant over the one remaining hole, though.

    That adjustment moved the seat back about 1-3/4.". That's as far back as it's going anyway. I couldn't get the seat OUT of the kayak without risking never being able to get it back in. But at least I had the chance to move it way forward and clean under it with some cleaner and paper towels before bolting everything back together.

    So with that done, I climbed back in, repositioned and secured the thigh braces, reset the foot braces, and it feels a heck of a lot better now. Now I'm eager to take it out and see how it feels. I'm supposed to go tomorrow after work, but we'll see how the weather goes. If it's pouring rain, it may dampen my enthusiasm.

    I want to edit my blog post to use the correct terms... so, the Eskimo Rescue is the one where you pull yourself up onto the deck (assisted), as opposed to the heel hook? And is that one called the Heel Hook? What's the one in between (the one I called the Vee Method)? Thanks!

    Rob
  • bow rescue
    The bow rescue, aka. "Eskimo rescue" is an assisted rescue in which the rescuer makes the bow of his or her boat available to the person who has capsized.

    When attempting the bow rescue as the rescuee it is important to grab the bow of the rescuer's boat with both hands, then bring your head up so that your hands are in front of your face.

    It is a not uncommon beginner's mistake to bring the head up in front of the hands, which doesn't work well and potentially puts the shoulders in a vulnerable position. Once you have your hands on the rescuer's boat, put your head on your hands and keep it there as you roll your boat back up with your lower body.
  • Rescue Names
    -- Last Updated: Oct-16-12 10:12 AM EST --

    Rescues are either self rescues or assisted rescues to start with. The there are types of each.

    Eskimo rescue - this part edited out because I may be out of date.

    Note that coming in at an actual perpendicular angle on the Eskimo bow presentation is a pretty good way to blow the rescue by bumping the boat of the person you plan to save away from you unless you have very tight boat control. Most coaches I've dealt with the last few years favor more of an angle, even sliding your boat along the upturned hull to plop your bow into the rescuee's hands.

    Your blog also shows a paddle shaft presentation of this rescue - the woman is doing it - but that requires a fairly good degree of boat control and a willingness to come in pretty hard and fast. It is not likely you'll be getting to that one a lot quite yet.

    I've seen what you called the Vee Rescue called a couple of things, usually involving shoulder in the name or between boat at times, but be aware that one is less well liked by many because it is a dandy way to blow out a shoulder.

    The Heel Hook has the heel going into the boat first, the one on the side furthest from the boat, and there is both an assisted and a paddle-float self rescue version of same.

    The Cowboy and the Ladder are pretty much the same self-rescue, and there is a ladder version of an assisted rescue.

  • Yeah Man!
    Congratulations on the seat move. It makes a big difference for a lot of folks.

    You might consider looking at Eric Jackson's DVD. He teaches how to plop your head and shoulders into the water then brace up.
  • T rescue
    T rescue is a term that is also applied to a boat-over-boat rescue in which the capsized craft is drawn over the rescue craft near amidships upside down to empty it of water.
  • Options
    Seat
    I finally got out today with the Tempest. The seat changes were a definite improvement, but it's far from done.

    The fore-aft positioning is great. I also removed the hip pads because it was too tight with them in. I could see maybe making my own about half as thick sometime later.

    The thigh braces need a bit more adjustment. I left my screwdriver at home so couldn't do anything on the water. But the biggest problem is the seat bottom and seat back. I think I need to just replace that seat with one of the molded ones from a composite boat. The one in that SEDA that I paddled in the Kayaking Essentials class was awesome, even without padding.

    The current seat bottom angle is all wrong. Even with the front lifted up, it isn't supportive enough, and that's what is setting off my sciatic nerves. The Perception's seat is much better in that regard. The bottom isn't adjustable, but it's already at a good angle. Unfortunately it's too wide to fit in the Tempest or I'd swap it in.

    And then there's the issue of the seatback, which I still say is too flimsy.

    So.. I need to find a place to order a seat. Then I think the Tempest will be golden. I went ahead and put the Perception up on Craigslist too.. maybe I can get it gone and use that money on a dry suit.

    Rob
  • Improving support under thighs
    You can glue in shaped minicell in front of the seat to extend the support from the seat bottom. Others here have done it.

    That said, when is the rolling class? That will tell you more about how that seat needs to be set, may be a better idea to wait if it isn't too far off.

    Obviously waiting is not something you love to do, but before you spend money on messing with the seat...
  • ok...
    -- Last Updated: Oct-17-12 11:08 PM EST --

    Getting a good non-OEM seat in a kayak is a non-trivial exercise. Having built a handful of kayaks, I tend to prefer carved foam. Doing it yourself can be satisfying, but may also be frustrating and expensive (like, if you mess up your slab of 4-inch thick minicel, which is expensive to begin with). Another possibility is to either get a full custom foam seat from Redfish kayaks, or get a bottom piece with butt-print pre-carved in it, from Redfish, then, you'd shape the block to the hull outlines, yourself. Probably use Velcro to hold it in place. Oh, the WS seat pan does provide a bit of structure, but, I doubt if it's enough to be critical.

    http://www.redfishkayak.com/seats.htm
    http://www.redfishkayak.com/foam.htm

  • Thigh supprt
    An easy way to deal with that is with a paddle float. Inflate it and place it under your legs in front of the seat. Adjust it for height by inflating or deflating. Another tip is to be sure you are alternating pressure on the foot supports. When paddling on the right, push with your right foot and relax the left and vice versa. Finally you will likely find that with experience you will want little or no back support and a seat that is hard and smooth rather than padded. Both facilitate torso rotation.
  • Options
    Seats, Class, Etc.

    Rolling Class is Sunday the 28th, the day after my class with Nigel Foster, which is an extension of the Kayaking Essentials class I already took.

    I'm in no rush to replace the seat; I'm still fairly broke. I'll keep trying to make this one work. I like the suggestion of putting foam under it. That may be a good way to go. For the seatback, I can get a replacement for about $45 that will be much more rigid than the wet noodle in there now. I'd rather take more time and learn more about the boat and see how my needs change with experience than throw money at it.

    Speaking of that, I just sold the Perception Essence 17 today. A real nice guy, perfectly sized for it, just took it away. Now I think I'm going to order a dry suit. NRS has a closeout on a real nice one that's supposed to breath very well. I'm really warm-blooded so I worry about sweating like mad in one if it isn't super cold out. I wonder if I should start a separate thread about that. :)

    Rob
  • seat
    I have a tempest and needed to "firm" up the back band and leg lifters. it was flimsy feeling. I put some foam under the leg riser so it it wasnt just "hanging" from the straps on the side. worked great. then, I ran bungie through the slots at the seat sides where the hip pads run through (i removed the pads) and ran the bungie over where the bottm strap connects to the middle of the band. The back band now stays low and is firm. ( could do any adjustment & it will feel firmer this way) of course you could just change it out but this worked and the t band is not a bad back band as far as back bands go, i feel.
  • Options
    Perfect!
    PERFECT!! Awesome idea, the bungee on the back band. I have a ton of bungees of various lengths so I'll try that.

    For the seat bottom, my initial plan was to use both of my bilge sponges for the time being, to test height and firmness.

    Rob
  • Options
    Two more classes...
    My whole weekend's been taken up with classes this time. Saturday was Nigel Foster's Directional Control class, and today was Rolling.

    Saturday's class covered waaay too much stuff to even attempt to describe much of it here. Suffice it to say, it was really awesome. There are so many "finer" strokes and variations on strokes that it will take time to get good at them. It's not unlike the difference between hitting a tennis ball back and forth over the net and actually learning to play Tennis well (I've played since high school so I can say that). :)

    Nigel's boat control is just plain amazing. Watching him do stuff with that paddle is wild.

    Rolling today was fun! I had to quit early because I was getting nauseous, though. I dunno if it was because I had lunch on the way to class, or what. I got that way yesterday after lunch too, so I suspect it was food-related.

    Anyway, I learned a LOT. I know what people mean now about how boat sizing and fit will affect ability to roll. The boats we had didn't have hip pads, so they were fairly loose on me. They were also higher-volume. Not as big as my Essence 17 was, but definitely bigger than my Tempest and bigger than the composite boats we used in the other classes. Still, I was able to do it. I almost had the technique down when I started feeling woozy and had to get out.

    I got to play with a Greenland paddle too. It was the second of the three paddles we played with during rolling. We started out with a regular paddle with a foam paddle float on the end, to practice laying sideways in the water, before moving on to actual capsizes. But then later he had us using the greenland paddle and gripping it at the blade end and using it's full length to sweep ourselves back upright. I got to paddle with it a little bit (given the small area of the pool, and I really like it. A friend is a wood-worker so I'm going to see about having him help me carve one.

    I'll take the rolling class again in the Spring before I get ready to head to the ocean. I want to take some ocean paddling classes too. I don't dare attempt it without having had some instruction (and some people to go with).

    But after all this, I think my Tempest is the right boat, at least for right now. I will want something bigger (capacity-wise) for trips eventually, but it's way too early to even think about that right now. Like, I paddled a Seaward Legend yesterday and while it seemed like a nice boat, it felt very tippy and for that reason alone, I didn't like it. I've chalked it up to inexperience for the time being.

    Oh.. I put a couple of short rubber bungee straps around the backband of my seat. I haven't paddled it like that yet, but just sitting it it, it feels a whole lot better. Ditto with the two sponges jammed beneath the front of the seat.

    I haven't updated my blog with posts about the two classes yet; hopefully in the next couple of days (if not sooner).

    Rob


  • rolling and nausea
    Years ago I gave up eating lunch on river trips as I found that any significant exertion right after a sizable meal tended to produce nausea. And if you ever take a bad swim in white water after having a big lunch, you will probably wish you had gone without.

    Some people will experience dizziness and/or nausea due to water entering the ear canal. This is more commonly a problem with cold water, but even pool water is cooler than body temperature. If nausea after rolling remains a problem even on an empty stomach, you might want to give ear plugs like Doc's a try: http://www.proplugs.com/

    If you can roll a boat that is loose in the hips, you will very likely be able to roll one that is properly padded out. It is possible to brace yourself into a boat without hip pads using your feet and knees to some extent, but there is still going to be some slop when you hip snap. This is especially true for a roll with a rather explosive hip snap (like the C-to-C), less so for a sweep roll or Greenland style roll. Boats used by clubs for pool sessions and clinics are often left unpadded or minimally padded so that they can accommodate paddlers of any size.

    Nowadays white water kayaks come with readily or instantly adjustable outfitting. Back in the day, it was necessary to glue in minicell foam padding and carve it and shape it to fit. Nearly all beginning white water kayakers started out with a fit that was too loose for fear of not being able to easily exit, and progressively added more padding when they figured out that they could easily exit even a boat that felt quite tight.

    You might be able to roll a loose boat in a still pool, but rolling in current, waves, or highly aerated water is another thing entirely and you want to give yourself as big a margin for success as you can.
  • Options
    good idea
    Good idea on the ear plugs. That might have something to do with it too. I do tend to get water in my ears pretty bad when I've been capsizing in class and have to shake my head to get it out when I come back up. I also managed to swallow a small amount of pool water because I tried to roll once without my nose plugs.. that was a stupid idea. :)

    Rob
  • cold water vertigo
    -- Last Updated: Oct-30-12 4:44 AM EST --

    Google 'cold water vertigo'

    I suffer from cold water vertigo, rolling in warm water, like a pool, no problems, repeated practice rolls in cold water (low-mid 50's) and I'm hurling. The amount of food in my system has nothing to do with my nausea, no food and I dry heave.

    Google has lots of info, ear plugs (docs) work for me when practicing. A tightly fitting neoprene balaclava works when playing in places I'm likely to capsize to keep water out of my ears.

  • Second the doc's plugs (vented)
    They'll send you a little chart to pick the right size first, but they are way worth the extra time. he vented ones don't leak at all but do allow you to hear, and help both to prevent otitis and some with nausea.

    Get colored ones, tethered. Once an untethered clear one ends up in the water you'll never find it.e
  • Not Stupid
    You need to practice rolling without nose plugs now and then. The trick is to slowly exhale through your nose as you roll. Make it a habit to push a little air out with the nose plugs on and you'll never have to think about it.

  • Options
    Thank you!
    Thank you, Celia! That chart will be just what I need to pick the right size. I'll definitely get a pair.

    I also plan to get one of those neopreme balaclava things. NRS has one with a built-in "bill" for $35.

    The nausea didn't go away until the end of yesterday. I was still feeling it yesterday afternoon when I got home from work. This morning it's a lot better.. haven't felt it yet.

    Hoping to go out Friday but the river is up to 12' and flow is at 33k cfs, normally 10-13k, so I'm wondering. May decide to wait.

    Rob
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