Why get a kayak roof rack?

I carry all kayaks cockpit down, hull up
However, I do use Thule racks. But the same system should be usable on factory racks.



I use the kind of thick foam blocks that clip onto bars, not thin pipe insulation. I carve the foam blocks to fit the curve or peak of the upside down front and back decks.



This system allows the kayak to nestle into soft concave cradles, allows me to cinch the straps tight against the resilient foam blocks, and doesn’t require a cockpit cover to keep out rain.



I also think a cockpit down carry is more streamlined against the wind and less likely to generate a wind up-force on the bow strap.

curious about cockpit down…
do you slide the kayak up on it’s hull then flip or do you put on already cockpit down perhaps always having help to do so? I know I can’t just slide mine up inverted because all the deck lines and probably the cockpit rim would catch.

three reasons
Safer with less input.



More protective of the boat



Most importantly, looks cooler.



Ryan L.

No sliding. Lift from side.

– Last Updated: Sep-24-12 8:28 PM EST –

Even in my old age I can lift my kayaks over my head with two arms locked. I load the kayaks from the side of the vehicle, even my full size van.

The blocks are always positioned all the way to the side of the bars if I am carrying one or two hulls, unless I am using a really low vehicle like my Saab for one hull. This is so I can get the boats on the blocks from the side.

I stand next to the vehicle between the bars and either lift the whole kayak over my head onto both blocks at the same time, or I just lift the bow up onto the bow block first. I put the bow in the bow block with only a little sliding. Too much slide may rotate the bow foam block and knock it over, but that's okay as long as the bow is up there. I fix it later.

With the bow on the upright or knocked over bow block, I lift the stern with both arms onto the stern block. Then I go back to the bow, lift up the kayak an inch, and re-position the bow block under the boat.

You can even put the kayak on the blocks hull down, and then flip it over once it's up there.

I also have Thule Outriggers inside the Thule load bars on my high van, which can be extended outward to assist the side load. I would normally only extend the bow Outrigger and do the bow-first load. Lift the bow onto the Outrigger, lift the stern into the stern block, then lift the bow sideways off the Outrigger into the foam block.

You can fiddle the boat forward and backward, but that may knock the blocks over and you'll have to re-position them by lifting the hull an inch again. With practice, it goes fast. I have to use a 3 or 4 step ladder on my high van, but I have to do that with that vehicle no matter how I'm affixing kayaks or canoes.

You could prevent the blocks from rotating or moving by taping them to the bars, but I don't do that because I don't want to drive around with foam blocks on my vehicle. Nor do I want semi-permanent yak saddles on my vehicle, which is why I much prefer easily removable foam blocks.

I should point out that if you have a very peaked front deck and short bar spacing, you may not be able to carve enough depth into standard commercial foam blocks, but you can always make your own from minicell.

Here's a picture of my van with a 17'-2" Surge seakayak in the middle and a 22'-3" Huki outrigger on the side, both supported on standard foam blocks with minor carving of the bow blocks. To get the kayak in the middle, I have to do it with one of the side boats removed. I just lift it (36 lbs.) onto the bar, and then crab-walk it to the middle where the foam blocks are. All using the step ladder for reach.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FOrVxa1GLIk/S5ye7FR5pfI/AAAAAAAAAlA/L4sDfuvcgHw/s576/IMGP0093.JPG

Can you home made rack carry bikes?

– Last Updated: Sep-24-12 10:27 PM EST –

If you can get a bike attachment on your insulation piping rack, post a picture.

I normally put my bike inside. But when I'm on vacation, the back is filled with camping gear + paddling gear. Bike goes on the roof free up interior room.

And lets face it, racks are mostly catering to bikes rather than boats. Just count the number of boats vs number of bikes on the highway. For every boat you see, you'll see 3-5 bikes! I bought all my base racks used. Each time it came with a bike carrier whether I want it or not! I had to buy the kayak carrier extra. Never did I get a kayak carrier as a freebee.

Thank you
Thanks to everyone for the replies. They are just what I needed!



It sounds like I should invest in some foam blocks. I just need to see what will fit on a Whispbar.

I own Thule and Yakima stock

How much did you pay for your boat?
In my case I paid $1700, but the boat was worth $4,000+ new. In this case the $150 invested in the rack is insurance for my investment. It is easier to swing my 19’ boat onto my roof and secure it while solo without risk of bumping while putting it up there or deforming while lashed securely.



If you have $400 invested in your boat and don’t expect to get much more at resale, it’s pristine condition is probably not so important.



I think the high end racks make it easier to secure well also. Not so much in my case as my SUV is tall and I am not so gettting the straps over the boat and under the bars take a little more effort than I like.



I think the nicer the boat the more likely you will see a high end kayak holder on the roof, or if the users are not as strong, swinging a boat into a nice kayak rack makes it easier.

Safety
I always think of the other guy. What would happen if a boat wouls go airborn on the highway? I have seen some horribly strapped and jury-rigged car topping systems over the years. It is an investment for your boat and for fellow drivers.

that speaks to installation more than
…how much safer thule and yakima racks are than a handmade setup.



Additionally I think the j cradles decrease safety because it’s another fitting with another fit point. Something else with the possibility of failing.



some of this stuff is for convenience, which is fine.

Yes sir,

– Last Updated: Oct-25-12 10:44 AM EST –

I think Yakima and Thule are both high quality products. I use Thule feet and bars, just prefer them for my use. I had a set of Yakima J cradles fail in the North Carolina/Virginia mountains. Hit some serious cross winds around Fancy Gap Virginia and twisted the J cradle mounting bracket right off the front load bar. Luckily I had the bow tied down to two front anchor points and the rear held. The kayak was hanging down on the drivers side window but did no damage to anything else.

These were some serious cross winds. I saw the sign that warned about them in the area. Slowed and saw the trucks, campers and trailers getting blown into other lanes as they went through the gap where the wind was crossing. When it hit us it just tore the front mount off. I had a Yakima cargo box on the wind side and it held fine. Stout setup on the cargo box.

What about safety?
Remember, the topic is basically a question as to whether kayak cradles add any significant advantage to strapping the kayak directly to the bars.



I’m not sure that cradles attached to the bars adds any safety re the kayak being blown off the vehicle. The same straps will still go around the same bars. In fact, the additional cradle attachments and gizmos probably add more points of potential failure – though I think the whole issue is rather marginal.

Hull side down
is the way I transport my Kayak. I have Thule roof rack for my Toyota 4-runner, which is padded, but my Delta 17 has such a rounded forrard deck, that I need foam blocks. I have straps going over the kayak at the bulkheads and bow and stern have straps to front and rear bumpers. Being an older vehicle the bumpers are not plastic. The front one is a custom built to prevent deer going into the radiator in the (not unlikely) event I hit one as it tries to cross the road in front of me.

Slush puppy always has a sarcastic
remark and never any thing constructive.



Guy

With a Thulke, Yakama, Malone or
other high end racks you can mix and match.

For instance I have Yakama and I have J cradles, saddles, Hully rollers, gunnel brackets, ski racks, and bike racks.

It’s kind of difficult to put those on a factory roof rack, but I can take them on and off in a few minutes and carry kayaks, canoes, skis, and bikes.



Guy

Slushpaddler has often contributed
useful input to discussions. You’re too new to know that.



He’s definitely contributed plenty of sarcasm, as well. He’s not alone in that respect.

BIG pool noodle
With my setup, I use the deck down/hull up method and use the bigger 3" pool noodles. These work better than any Yakama or Thule pads and NEVER have had a creased/dented side no matter how tight the strap. Check out the big box stores this time of year to get them on sale in the $3-4. each range. Second kayak goes on the J cradles.

I have been lurking long before …
you ever came on P-net, and was lurking when Slushpuuppy decided that he could take over and belittle paddlers that would put him to shame.

Anyone that hides behind no profile is a shrimp in my estimation.



Guy

“Bigger” noodles and no creases
Well, it’s nice that this method works for you, but I wouldn’t call it a one-size-fits-all method. A 3-inch diameter pool noodle isn’t bigger than normal; it’s the only size pool noodle I’ve ever seen so I’d say it’s pretty standard. Pool noodles are better than pipe insulation, but they still compress just about all that way in a short time if there’s much contact pressure, so the actual contact area still ends up being barely bigger than the bar. Maybe you have a tough boat, maybe your bars line up with bulkheads, maybe you don’t leave your 'yaks strapped as tightly or for as long or as in such hot weather as other folks do. All I know is that I’ve seen plenty of warped boats plastic where the dents line up perfectly with pool-noodle-wrapped crossbars. If the method works for you there’s no reason to change anything, but there’s no way one can say pool noodles provide “better” padding than any of the really nice cradles that are available, especially when you start talking about longer and more-fragile boats. It’s a matter of surface area, and nothing even comes close to providing as much surface area as hull-conforming pads.

Wrong guideboat

– Last Updated: Oct-30-12 1:16 AM EST –

pool noodles also come in large sizes and this is the size I use:http://www.amazon.com/Big-Boss-Noodle/dp/B005ECAFMW/ref=pd_sim_sg_4

Have had 7-8 different SOT's from 12'-16' and never had a side compress, dent, or change shape and we are in hot summer weather here in Sacramento. Regarding pads..I think we are talking about 2 different pads. I'm talking about the Thule or Yakama bar pads which have a lace on one end and slide over the bar like these:http://www.rei.com/product/494126/yakima-crossbar-pads

Maybe you mean these? http://yakima.com/shop/camping/roof/mako-saddles-1pair