Greetings Everyone!
In an earlier post "Help with Perimeter Lines - Pics inside " http://www.paddling.net/message/showThread.html?fid=advice&tid=1602978 I had a few questions answered about installing perimeter lines.
After reading the helpful posts, I think I am ready to proceed. However, I would like to avoid pad eyes if possible (and I just bought a bunch of them and an uber pop rivet gun as well :-/) and minimize the number of holes I need to drill into the boat.
Looking at the bow & stern, it looks like the further most ends are epoxy filled?
http://bobchu.com/temp1/Bow-Is_it_Epoxy_Filled.jpg
http://bobchu.com/temp1/Stern-Is_it_Epoxy_Filled.jpg
If so, I was thinking, it would be ideal, if I could run the furthest most bow and stern ends of the perimeter lines through the current bow & stern toggle locations. I would then drill a hole through the epoxy filled areas and relocate the toggle points to those locations?
http://bobchu.com/temp1/Stern-Toggle_Location.jpg
http://bobchu.com/temp1/Stern-Toggle_Location.jpg
In this way I would really only need to drill two holes (albiet larger holes), and the deck would stay mostly snag free. If this seems like a sound idea, would it be best to drill at option #1 or option #2?
Thank you in advance again!,
Bob
once again
Bob, once again I might have a suggestion here: http://gnarlydognews.blogspot.com.au/2009/06/sea-kayak-grab-handles.html
I like to have my toggles at the end of the boat where surf wet-exits will not harm my hands if I am holding onto the kayak (best if kayak is held by bow/stern than sides).
I like the retractable end toggle to prevent pesky banging of handle: http://gnarlydognews.blogspot.com.au/2011/02/shop-retractable-grab-handle.html
I thought I saw it on your blog! 
Thanks again Gnarly Dog!
I thought I saw this idea on your blog a while ago
From looking at your retrofits, it looks like you put the toggles pretty far at the ends of the kayak? It looks like one of the holes were drilled near/on the deck/hull seam. Have you noticed any odd issues because of this? If I were to follow a similar scheme - I would be putting the toggles at these locations?:
http://bobchu.com/temp1/Bow-Toggle_Location_1.jpg
http://bobchu.com/temp1/Stern-Toggle_Location_1.jpg
I was thinking of looping the line through the toggle, binding the 2 lines together so I don’t accidentally put a finger through them and having a bungee holding the handle taught on the deck. - it looks like you have one line connecting to the toggle - any issues with balance?
Thanks again!,
Bob
balance
I have no balance problems with my toggle line being one sided only since they are opposed (port side on bow, starboard on stern) and carrying the kayak balances them out.
I have not noticed any adverse behaviour when holding it just one end, in the water.
Your proposed location looks fine to me since you have your kayak’s ends filled.
In one of my kayaks I had to add a small section of fibreglass tube where the ends of the kayak were hollow: I glassed them in with epoxy paste.
If you were to go for the retractable-handle line maybe consider angling the hole to facilitate the sliding of the rope.
In other kayaks I have joined the loop in the line with PVC tubing to prevent fingers being inserted in the lopp and injured if kayak were to spin (like in a surf wet exit).