feathering a paddle

Rolling, Paddles, and Diversity

– Last Updated: Apr-07-13 12:46 PM EST –

The importance of the brace and roll hit home several years ago in my corner of the world. A local WW paddler was in a roll-or-die situation and died. I understand he blew several roll attempts then got caught up in a submerged root ball. I couldn't help but wonder if the guy was using a feathered paddle and if that was a hindrance to his roll. In my opinion the GP shape is the best tool for getting upright. No power face; no up or down, and naturally indexed. If I was going to get into the WW thing I'd make a shorter, wider GP and I WOULD stay or get upright.

I understand the response to this guy's drowning might be: "He didn't have the right stuff." meaning skills. I'd reply "Maybe. And maybe he was using a lousy tool for the job."

Yup, it illustrates my point
n/m

Nah, for WW the GP is not the best tool

– Last Updated: Apr-07-13 3:30 PM EST –

I started WW with a GP because my roll was not that good and the GP allowed me more of a safety margin at the time. So perhaps, for someone with a shaky roll a GP might be better. It was for me. But I only ventured in easy white water at the time. If I had issues with my roll I would try to avoid roll or die situations by walking around them. But read further - not having to roll (i.e. staying upright) is even more important IMO in those critical situations.

Today, now that my roll has improved enough to not matter what paddle I use or if it is just half paddle or sometimes no paddle, for White Water use, I find a proper WW paddle to be decidedly superior to a GP. Yes, I see folks use GPs for rock gardening or WW, but for me the GP simply lacks the support you get from a nice wide short paddle. Yes, rolling with a GP might be easy, but going over in the first place is also a lot easier as bracing and support strokes are not as effective, especially in turbulent white water. The GP does not give me quick enough instant response to avoid obstacles or to brace or to draw sideways with power and solid stability like a WW paddle does. Over the last week I took my new GP on my usual WW circuit to test it. While it is great and easy to use in the easy sections, I switched to my AT 2 Flexi (0 offset) for some real play and hard paddling. The foam core AT 2 has just as much buoyancy and being a bent shaft is always easy to index (but rolls fine upside down or left side right too).

Just like I could but would not want to paddle with my WW paddle on the flats, I won't pickup the GP as my first choice paddle for the rough stuff either.

it must be human tendency…
I agree with you. But it must be human tendency to want to apply one solution to different conditions.

True, however…
… having a dominant hand and being stronger on one side than the other does not mean that one is going to use a control hand on a kayak paddle. It’s really all about the grip, or more precisely, the lack of a grip. It’s pretty simple:



On the pull stroke the fingers hook the shaft/loom of the paddle and the thumb wraps around enough to capture it, but there is no gripping involved. The only tension in the hand is in the fingers hooking the paddle and pulling it rearward.



On the push stroke, the web between the thumb and forefinger and/or the pads at the base of the finger push the paddle forward. This naturally causes the thumb and fingers to wrap around the paddle, but the hand is relaxed and again, there is no gripping involved.



This technique works well for most paddling, with the exception of maneuvering/sculling/bracing strokes which do require a grip on the paddle.

this is what helped me get my offside
roll - unfeathering and forgetting about the “control hand”.

I like This One Out on the Water
Check out:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwgRo2qahZY



Love that sliding stroke.

Greenland Forward Stroke Videos
The original footage (and more) is on the Qajaq USA website at http://www.qajaqusa.org/Movies/movies.html.



Greg Stamer

I love playing in rock gardens…
…and use a GP exclusively, but it is definitely NOT the best tool for it. Particularly when things are tight and shallow, you find yourself at a serious disadvantage, as you can’t get enough blade in the water to propel the boat forcefully. It can be frustrating and potentially dangerous. I guess the ideal situation would be to carry one of my old Euro paddles on-deck just for rock-gardens.

Modified Design?
If you made a GP somewhat shorter and widened the blades considerably would you get a nice compromise? The ‘zip’ for rolling and the ‘bite’ for quick maneuvers?

learned one feathering benefit
I posted last week that I paddle unfeathered as it doesn’t aggravate my wrist; however, this weekend taught me one benefit to feathering.



I went out on Candlewood Lake on Sunday to heavy wind and enough waves to make it fun (inland surfing anyone?).



I was trying a new high angle paddle and based on comments here, decided to try it feathered and unfeathered. Since the waves were big enough to tip my kayak, I was regularly bracing. The feathered paddle was always ready for a brace, whereas, unfeathered required a quick correction.



I am definitely not an expert paddler, but I could immediately see why many flat water paddlers don’t see the need to feather, whereas other paddlers sneer at unfeathered use. I can’t believe it took me four years to realize this.

How about bracing on the “other” side?

– Last Updated: Apr-08-13 8:17 PM EST –

With feathered paddle, you are able to [high] brace immediately 50% of the time (say on the left against an incoming wave with your other side still in the water). How about the other 50%, where in fact you need to rotate the paddle more than you would if it was not feathered?

To me this argument is like saying, if I take off one of my shoes it won't get wet in the puddle - well, that works on your first step if it happens to be with the correct foot forward, or if you hop on one leg :)

I should add that I am not against feathering - there are very good uses for it. Just trying to debunk some myths along the way or learn something new...

agree
Bracing on one side with a feathered paddle is exactly the same as bracing on one side with an unfeathered paddle. Bracing on the other side with a feathered paddle requires much more rotation than bracing on that side with an unfeathered paddle. Bracing on each side with an unfeathered paddle is the same. Bracing on each side with a feathered paddle is different. Confusing?



The only advantage, and it is a real advantage, of a feathered paddle is reduced wind resistance into the wind. However, this requires a feather above about 60 deg. There is no ergonomic advantage to feathering on flat water.



I don’t see any reason at all for feathering at 45 deg or less, though I am not a WW guy.

The advantages are only anecdotal
Any benefits of having a feathered paddle while paddling into a headwind are not supported by solid research. In an isolated (not real world) environment there are benefits if you look at a discrete set of factors. However, when you look at potential benefits and weigh them against costs in a real world environment you will probably find a net benefit of zero.

hurry up and finish that thesis!
:wink:

So much for research.
Anyone who has paddled into a wind and can’t tell the difference between feathered and unfeathered, needs to get checked.

until
You turn.



Ryan L.

I love topics like this
People would defend putting their two-piece paddle together with the blades in the middle if you told them they couldn’t.

If this were Facebook I would …
give you a “like”.

As a very recent convert…

– Last Updated: Apr-21-13 4:43 AM EST –

to the dark side, I really enjoyed reading through this thread and a similar one started by Glenn_MacGrady. I started out with 60° and struggled to get a clean pull through the water on my non-control side. Tried 75° and liked it instantly. Thanks to these threads I'm giving zero feather a go. I seem to naturally fall into a slightly lower angle stroke with no feather. I found starting to use a single control hand more intuative than this switching of the control hand business. I think in part because I'm still unconsciously letting my control hand do more of the blade angle control, hence the slight shoulder pain.