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1 1/2" hull penetration through kevlar

I'd like to run a bilge pump hose through the hull of a Millbrook Shacho. Is this feasible using say a Dremel with a small cutting wheel? Other ideas?

Here is the fitting http://tinyurl.com/l95w57h



  • No problem to do this.
    Uses whatever you want for sealant but if the part is mounted on somewhat of a curved surface better the sealant has a little 'body' or firmness so it when cured ... So I would vote for 3m 4200 instead of silicone for example.
  • I think I could do it with a hole cutter
    Might make one nervous, thinking about it, but that ultra-thin laminate on the side of the hull is pretty tough.

    Curious--- Did Kaz use Spheretex to stiffen the bottom?
  • Why?
    I mean, it's a canoe, right? Like no deck, completely open at the top?

    Why cut a hole in it?

    What's wrong with just running a hose up and over the gunwale?
  • Yeah, that works
    But bilge pump hose going over the gunwale is prone to get dislodged and/or damaged when the boat is car-topped, or a boat over boat rescue is called for, or if the boat goes through a rapid upside down.

    Not that Brian ever swims, but he might possibly let someone else try the boat someday, like me perhaps.

    I also would go with the appropriate-sized hole saw.
  • I understand Kaz is using Spheretex
    ... on the bottoms. I don't really know much about it though.
  • I've done it over the top on other boats
    ... but it does have the disadvantages Pete mentioned. Two more could be added to Pete's good list. Over the top means more lifting and less efficiency. And over the top means it can interfere with paddle strokes, depending on the setup. You may have to use more hose to get it out of your way. More hose means more backwash when you turn it off.

    I don't think I'm going to rush out and do through-the-hull penetrations on my other boats ... except maybe my tandem since it is interfering with my right-sided son's paddle strokes.
  • Thanks for the hole saw advice
    I was a little worried that the teeth might grab. But with a hole saw you're in control of how much pressure you use and there isn't anything really sharp to grab, like say with a forstner bit. I'll give the hole saw a try.
  • Careful
    I agree that a hole saw is your best option, but use it carefully. Hold a thick block of wood on the side opposite the hole saw and apply light pressure to avoid having it grab. Use a blade with the finest teeth you can find.

  • hole saw is correct ....
    -- Last Updated: Jun-20-13 7:22 PM EST --

    ...... 1-1/2" hole saw for a 1-1/2" o.s. dia. tube .

    As you said already , you are in control of the pressure . One suggestion , cut in from both sides . Don't cut clean through from just one side cause blow out may happen .

    Another way to help prevent blow out if cutting through from just one side is to ... use a backer up tight against the side , something like a piece of 2x6 held tight either by hand (someone elses) , or preferably clamped .

    Also some hole saws have finer teeth than others , finer is better for your job .

    I wouldn't use a larger saw than the tube . If the fit is really snug try a fine rat tail to ease it a bit .

    I wouldn't cut too close to an edge cause I think there's a chance that a crack over the hole could develop in time .

    ps., ... a variable speed drill would be best cause you can keep the rpm lower and be more precision on thin materials that way .

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