drysuit question

I have a palm Dry suit and it doesn’t seem to Repel water like it did when new. After cleaning and drying would I be able to spray with the same stuff I use on my Gore TeX jackets when they get the same way? Of course I would avoid the gaskets etc…

Yes. My next suit will be Kokatat, but this was $200 new with tags. Great suit . But kokatat is in my future. Just trying to get all my miles from this one.

Definitely worth a try

– Last Updated: Oct-20-13 1:47 PM EST –

A number of products on the market for extending
the life of well used gear in wet environments.

Example

http://www.mcnett.com/gearaid/instant-waterproofing-spray#20420

http://www.nikwax-usa.com/en-gb/products/productdetail.php?productid=3

Can be dabbed on with a sponge by hand to avoid
rough mechanical action of washing machines
and air dry on a line to avoid heat of dryers.



Nikwax it
Wash in tub with Tech Wash followed by TX Direct Spray-on

h2o repellant.
I have one of these sprays. Gonna give it a go. Thanks

TX.Direct comes in soak-in version also
Nikwax makes it, and places such as REI and specialty outdoor-sports stores sell it.



I’ve been using it for many years on both Gore-tex and non-Gore-tex outerwear whose DWR finish wears off, as it eventually does.



I’ve even used it for the entire drysuit. Works fine, but after the suit is dry you should wash the gaskets with bar soap to remove the DWR residue.

no wash in for goretex
I thought you weren’t supposed to use wash-in waterproofing on goretex. Kokatat recommends using spray-on DWR.

ditto no wash in
Here is the care from the Goretex website



http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/content/care-center/restoring-water-repellency

I ahve done this
I have done this 2 stage NikWax process with a Palm Silver semi-dry suit I had. It helped, some, but the repellency seemed to disappear after a couple of uses. Now have retired that dry suit and use a Kokatat.



I guess it is worth a try, but be ready to re-apply.

I have the bottle in front of me now

– Last Updated: Oct-21-13 5:54 PM EST –

Front of label says it is recommended for Gore-Tex and eVENT breathable products.

Back of label says it is recommended for Gore-Tex, Ultrex, Entrant, Permatex, and eVENT.

It also says to use the spray-on version for garments with wicking liners. Drysuits don't have wicking liners, just a mesh-like laminate that protects the breathable membrane from direct contact with your clothing.

I used it on my old Gore-Tex drysuit at least three times without any problem. It restored the beading properties. The only reason I haven't used it on the new drysuit yet is that the DWR has not yet worn off.

I never machine-washed the suit, just hand-washed, rinsed, and hung to dry.

Cold water clinic instructions
Tom Harsh of Kokatat went I to some depth on how the DWR coating works at our cold water clinic. The micro hairs of the fabric need to stand up to she’d the water as when it was new. This can be recharged either chemically or simply by ironing in low without steam. Do not iron gaskets, zippers or other rubber components obviously but it does work very well. I’ve do e this to a Kikatat GTX Paclight jacket and a Stohlquist EZ to renew the water repellency with good results in improving the breath ability of the garments.





See you on the water,

Marshall

The River Connection, Inc.

Hyde Park, NY

www.the-river-connection.com

hudsonriverpaddler.org

no wash inside the suit
Once upon a time, the wash in stuff was approved by Gore-Tex to be used. According to Kokatat, it is no longer approved/suggested for washing in. Only the spray ON types are recommended now by Gore. Perhaps the bottle you have is old. What I was told is that the wash in kind blocks the channels for water to get out… something like that.



Personally I have never needed to use the ‘revive’ products and choose to low heat iron the material instead. This brings the DWR (durable water repellent) back to the surface and it will bead up again. On an old personal suit, I would do it ever fall and it would be good for the rest of the winter.

Thanks
I think I bought that bottle only a couple years ago; maybe it had been sitting on the shelf a while. I’ll continue to use it on a 1st-gen–circa 1978–Gore-Tex jacket that I have used it on several times, as well as an old 65/35 poly/cotton anorak.

I am going to try the ironing thing 1st
Thanks everyone…great information

Hair dryer - non contact

– Last Updated: Oct-23-13 12:27 PM EST –

Wonder if a warm hair dryer might work just as well.

There would be zero contact with the fabric
seams, zippers, seals, etc. and probably be safer
than direct "metal on fabric" contact.
Wouldn't the iron just smush everything anyways
causing the hairs/fibers/strands to lay down ?

I’ll give it a go.
Just got back from a road warrior delivery trip.



I’ll try out the iron bit on an old Kokatat paddle jacket I have. I’ll do half and spray with water.



Will let you know as I’m curious as to the results. Low iron setting is the key I’m told.



See you on the water,

Marshall

The River Connection, Inc.

Hyde Park, NY

www.the-river-conneciton.com

hudsonriverpaddler.org

Marshall
Thanks for doing the experiment on behalf of us curious solution seeking souls…please email me your results and add in the hot dryer one too.

ironing
I have ironed my drysuit in the past to restore the DWR, and it worked quite well. Water beaded right up. That said, I haven’t done it again. After a dozen uses I start to lose DWR effectiveness on a new garment, and it’s probably half that for the ironed suit. So my suits wet out on the surface, and I don’t worry about it.



A hot dryer is not recommended for drysuits, because of the gaskets, so I’d stick to an iron for renewing the DWR.

Thanks Nate