Bluettes rubber gloves + wool?
I was looking at waterproof gloves in the hardware store (not for paddling) and saw a couple of models that would probably work as outer shells for wool liner gloves.
Hands would get damp from sweat, of course, and maybe some leakage down the wrists also, but wool does retain some insulating value even when soaked.
Because these gloves were so inexpensive, experimenting with them would not be a big deal. You can always use them for household and yard cleaning duties if they don’t work out for paddling/sport uses.
Thankful for Wool
A couple weeks back I was hiking; crossing streams; and a little cold, cold water went down my boot. In a very short time my foot was warm and when I removed my boots later that day there was no evidence that water had gotten in. I credit wool socks and breathable boots.
Happy Thanksgiving, y’all.
Level Six
I used their gloves for three seasons, buying a new pair each season. The thumb area wore through repeatedly from wing paddle use, but they were the best combination of warmth, grip, and fit I’d found. Unfortunately, last year they revised the palm area I believe, for better wear. The new glove was nowhere near as pliable as the older model, and the grip surface was extremely slippery. Sent them right back.
The Hyperskins are pretty decent-they wear through also, and are not the warmest out there, but they offer a great grip surface and fit.
Glacier Glove 3mm
Wuz just in CampMor a couple days ago an’ seen deez at $19.99 so ah’ bought a spare pair… now taday dems be $5 less at $14.99 online.
http://tinyurl.com/agocdrn
FE
THANK YOU!
Great find, thanks for the tip! Just ordered a few pairs. I don’t think I’ve had the 3mm but with the 2mm I’ve been just at the edge of comfort on really cold days, so these should be perfect. Can’t beat the price either - $49 locally at the paddling store vs. $15 there…
leaking?
I got some XL Glacier gloves last week. Went under water with them while rolling and they became water logged inside. I had the strap sinched super tight too. They are fairly large for me though being XL. Im thinking there was too much folding on the cuff and the strap was causing some creases which allows water in.
Im trying a L next and returning the XL . Hope that helps
Also should you put your drysuit gaskets on top of the glove cuff or under it??
never on top it will not seal like it does on your skin. Never going to be totally dry your wrist that is exposed exposed will get wet. I would just put drysuit sleeve over the glove cuff. I bought a pair of XXL and will try XL next. Thumb is way to long. Think I will make this pair fingerless by whacking a bit of each finger for not so cold days.
Yeah, go smaller in size. Also, you’re going to get some water in there. Won’t be enough to be a bother, though.
I’ve tried a lot of different gloves over the years and the best I’ve found are Thinsulate waterproof. In my experience there are a few specifications that constitute good paddling gloves: They should be black, or dark blue in color to absorb heat from the sun. 2) They should be made from a very flexible material–not neoprene, or rubber. 3) The gloves should not be tight on your hand and fingers. 4) The palm and fingers should be reinforced with a wear resistant, but very flexible padding. 5) The gloves should have fairly long cuffs with ribbing to keep them snug above the wrist.
When I paddle, my hands are in the water on virtually every stroke (that happens when you have long arms and paddle low-volume boats). Nordic Blue dry gloves are the best solution, but they’re expensive. However, you can make your own much cheaper using inexpensive Atlas fisherman’s gloves (N.B. uses the same Atlas gloves), which are available at commercial fishing suppliers, some general marine suppliers and online (http://www.fishermansheadquarters.com/fishing-gloves.htm). You can get wrist seals from OS Systems (www.ossystems.com), dive shops and kayak shops.
Installing the seals is no different that doing it on a dry suit. I prefer the orange (double dipped) Atlas gloves to the blue (triple-dipped, as used in N.B. gloves), as the former are more flexible. I haven’t had any wear problems with either one.
I don’t like the stock N.B. liners, so I replace them with wool and of course I use wool liners in my home-made versions. Because the shells are sealed and not breathable, your liners will get damp from sweat over time, so carrying an extra pair or allowing them to dry during a lunch stop is advisable.
I see that the Showa Temres 281 gloves are supposed to be waterproof and breathable. They look like good candidates for making dry gloves. I found them on Ebay for less than $20 shipped. These guys have a good selection of Atlas models and Glacier Gloves:
http://newenglandmarine.com/products-page/browse-by/gloves/
@bnystrom said:
… However, you can make your own much cheaper …
… Installing the seals is no different that doing it on a dry suit…
Excellent idea - making your own with waterproof gloves and wrist gaskets. I like it. Though it doesn’t necessarily address the dexterity issue, I might have to give it a shot. I’ve replaced gaskets on a dry suit myself with excellent results so gloves would be pretty simple.
@magooch said:
I’ve tried a lot of different gloves over the years and the best I’ve found are Thinsulate waterproof. In my experience there are a few specifications that constitute good paddling gloves: They should be black, or dark blue in color to absorb heat from the sun. 2) They should be made from a very flexible material–not neoprene, or rubber. 3) The gloves should not be tight on your hand and fingers. 4) The palm and fingers should be reinforced with a wear resistant, but very flexible padding. 5) The gloves should have fairly long cuffs with ribbing to keep them snug above the wrist.
I never saw thinsulate gloves which are waterproof. Any links thanks!
I found my Thinsulate gloves at a local outdoor store a few years ago for either $5.95, or $6.95–they were on sale. They are labeled “Thinsulate Waterproof” and really what they are is water resistant. That means a quick splash in the water won’t soak them, but if your hand is in the water for more than a split second, the glove is going to soak up some water. This is not a problem for me, because my hands almost never touch the water when I’m paddling and my drip rings keep the water off the part of the shaft where my hands are. I’ve learned over time that a lower angle paddling style has numerous benefits in this regard as well as efficiency etc.
If that doesn’t bring on some differing opinions, I’ll be surprised.
Another suggestion: Dachstein boiled wool gloves and mittens, which used to be standard issue for Himalayan climbers and polar explorers. Yes, they are expensive ($40 to $60 a pair) but they are virtually indestructible. I still have and use the same pair of red mittens and grey gloves that I bought 40 years ago when I was into winter mountaineering and ice climbing. The dense soft wool knit is warm even when wet and and can be worn under wind/wp shells. I find they are also more flexible than most insulated or thick neoprene handwear. I used them for ice climbing and they would often be soaked through but still comfortable. Because they are pre-shrunk (knit by hand oversized and then boiled to shrink down) they can be washed and machine dried. They have extra long cuffs that protect your wrists far up under your jacket. The mittens are so thick you can use them as insulation under your butt if you have to sit on ice or hard snow. My Dachsteins have outlasted almost all the outdoor gear I accumulated during my adventuresome 20’s despite being used far more often.
They make wonderful and indestructible 100% wool socks, too. I have a red pair that are at least 30 years old. Unlike most other “ragg” wool socks, they don’t have nylon thread “reinforcement”. The problem with nylon fibers is that they don’t stretch like wool yarn does and over time the nylon filament gradually abrades the wool until it wears away at the toes and heels, where the socks stretch and move. Anyone who had the old Wigwam brand grey ragg socks we all used in the '70’s and '80’s for hiking and sking will probably recall ending up with “bald” sock heels eventually.
https://www.sweaterchalet.com/dachstein-woolwear/dw-2110-adult-gloves/#cc-m-product-11727244431
I used to have the Dachstein mountaineering sweater, too, (another favorite of the early Himalayan alpinists) which I preferred to down or fleece wear for cold and damp conditions. Unfortunately I outgrew it and had to gave it away. You would be hard-pressed to find a warmer sweater anywhere.
There are so many products that “aren’t as good as they used to make them”, but Dachstein is a notable exception.
I have some old Dachstein mitts and gloves. What I remember about them is that they’re warm, but when they get wet while ice climbing and particularly when they start to ice up, they are slippery as heck and nearly useless. There’s a reason that nobody uses them for climbing anymore, they’re really at their best as liners under a pair of mitten shells with grippy palms.
As for paddling with them, like most of the other options discussed here, they’re no good in cases of immersion, as they’ll just become waterlogged and heavy. I also wonder if salt water will damage them.
I’ve worn the gloves canoeing in cold weather and they worked fine, they got slightly damp though I did not get them completely soaked.
Salt water doesn’t damage wool at all. North Sea fisherman and US Navy crewmen have worn woolen clothing for centuries. I used to buy those navy blue wool Navy issue winter uniform pants with the 14 button drop front (allegedly designed so sailors could pee over the side without dropping their pants) and tailor them for myself to wear for winter backpacking. (side note: the development of polyester fleecewear for cold and wet conditions started with Helly Hansen making garments for North Sea fishermen and sailors in the 1960’s).
best gloves?- stash a thin pair of nrs gloves in your pfd (for emergencies) and use pogies, pogies, pogies!
I recently purchases some boiled wool mittens but have not yet used them paddling. I have wondered though how one might add some of that grippy stuff to the palm (like some gloves/mittens have when you purchase them). I have thought about silicone or something along those lines. It just needs to stick to the glove and remain flexible. I welcome any thoughts.
You’re probably better off using grip wax on the paddle shaft.