Bow/Stern tie downs

@JohnGoldhurst @Sparky961 , yes exactly what I was looking at. Not actual Ratchet Straps, but the Ratcheting Tie Down Systems offered by Thule, Malone or Yakima. Wondered if when going over bumps would the ratchet system on these tie down keep tightening, and if a simply rope would do better… but most seem to go with these, so maybe they work just fine?

@Photecs said:
Wondered if when going over bumps would the ratchet system on these tie down keep tightening, and if a simply rope would do better… but most seem to go with these, so maybe they work just fine? <

Once set, the Thule QuickDraw stays in place. Doesn’t tighten or loosen. A secure and efficient tie-down system.

I have a Yakima one that uses the same cams as their regular straps .

Agreed, they stay put. Of course, as with just about any material, they will get tighter and looser with moisture but you’ll have to live with that. I go one step further and trim them so that there’s only about 2’ or so of tail left when I’m done tightening. This way you don’t have to worry as much about a dangling end getting caught under a wheel and ripping the bow off your kayak.

I’d use ropes almost as quickly though. Whenever I carried 3 boats (a rare thing) I’d use ropes for one of them because I only have two pair of the QuickDraw gizmos. Tying up a pre-made length designed for the purpose was just about as easy.

I’m guessing you aren’t proficient yet with knots if you’re asking this question. Stay away from the stiff yellow stuff if you want your knots to hold. Something like static climbing line will tie and hold much nicer. I’m sure we can get into the knotty details if you decide against the Thule widgets.

@Sparky961 , yes, completely new to paddling… just started kayaking last summer… loved it, already upgraded the yak and getting everything I need ready to go before the nice weather hits… in about another 3 months…

@Rookie , thanks! Great looking boat BTW

@Photecs said:
in about another 3 months…

… Is THE MOST dangerous time of year for paddling.

Never used anything but rope for bow and stern. Trucker’s hitch to get it snug - just snug. You can get too much tension with a trucker’s hitch just as easy as you can with cam straps or ratchet straps. It will not loosen if you tie it right. Use dacron cord. Nylon stretches when wet - dacron does not.

@Photecs said:
@Rookie , thanks! Great looking boat BTW

Thanks. Hope I remember how to paddle it once the snow and ice melt, which might not be until May given recent weather. :expressionless:

Good suggestion from Steve-in-Idaho. Dacron is more UV resistant than nylon and I try to look for that fiber in any gear that I’m going to be using outdoors a lot.

I like the cammed braided cord devices with hooked ends too, like the Thule Quickdraw, though mine are different brands. I tie off the long loose ends around the tightened line with a half dozen or more stacked half hitches so they don’t whip around – these stacked knots can also be slid to re-tension the slack, like a prusik knot. I don’t rely only on the cams alone to hold – my cords are long enough that I can double them through the vehicle and boat attachment points to provide a backup if the cams fail.

If I’m going to be traveling at some speed, rainy and/or windy weather, I pull over within the first couple of miles to check all the straps and bow/stern lines and re-tighten if needed.

Half hitches are my friend, followed by bowlines.

More important than rope vs. strap is the question of where you attach to the car. Modern cars don’t have good attachment points, so tie down kits (the ones that come with the foam blocks) give you hooks. The idea is that you reach under the bumper and snag the hook on something. This is a bad idea because you will be hooking onto plastic, which can flex and drop the hook. When this happens, your rope or strap may get pulled under the wheel, which will jerk it tight and damage your boat.

So the best approach for today’s cars is to open your hood, find a bolt along each side (as far forward as possible), and install a webbing loop there. This is very easy to do. You take about 10 inches of nylon/polyester/polypropylene webbing, fold it double, and melt a hole through both thicknesses at the end opposite the loop you have made, Then you remove the bolt, put it through the webbing, and reinstall it. These loops (one on each side) are stored under the hood when not in use, then flipped out when needed.

The beauty of this system is that your rope or strap will not be long enough to reach under the wheel if it comes loose. The only drawback is that you may have to replace the loop after a few years if the heat of the engine compartment weakens it.

At the rear of the car, you may not have any accessible bolts, but you can do something similar by tying a webbing loop around trunk hinges or latches, so that a bit of the loop hangs out when you close the trunk/hatch/tailgate.

@W_albany said:
At the rear of the car, you may not have any accessible bolts, but you can do something similar by tying a webbing loop around trunk hinges or latches, so that a bit of the loop hangs out when you close the trunk/hatch/tailgate.

Good advice.

I’ll add that for the trunk I’ve often just looped around a large object (like a 2x4), closed the hatch/trunk almost all the way, pulled it tight, then closed it completely. This works in a pinch when there are no obvious places to attach it. A similar method can be used (or purchased) for use under the hood, though the “stopper item” needs to be smaller. Someone else can provide the link for the purchasable item if they feel so inclined.

Huh. My last post looks like I’m making an admonishment. I meant to say, “I never used anything but rope…”

I like to put a grommet on those hood loops. You can usually find grommet kits, along with the web strap, at your local outdoor supplier.

I use a hot nail for the hole.

Much as I like my Thule QuickDraws, when I first saw the hooks I thought “no way.” Hooks can get unhooked so I replaced them with these:

Yes, I have the grommet hood loops ordered to be attached by a bolt under the hood, and just ordered those quick loops with the black hose attached that squishes down under a trunk lid. I have a trailer for getting my kayaks back and forth, but looking for the best options for using car “b” to get my yams back to paling “a” after going down river, back to the trailer.

I replaced the carabiner supplied by Thule with the kit, as I didn’t like how sharp the opening was. It kept getting caught on the (also provided) webbing loop and/or the kayak’s perimeter lines. It’s hard to find small, light, non-sharp load rated carabiners. I ended up finding a package at Home Depot that checked all the boxes. I think they were rated for 100 or 150 lbs each. Who knows if this was actually tested…

I use friction straps for short trips but I always make sure I have bow and stern tied down with good rope and well-tied knots on longer trips. I led trips and/or worked trip logistics for many years in the past and transported canoes for hundreds if not thousands of miles and never had a rope or knot fail…I did however have a canoe fly once that was tied with two ratchet straps. I’ve never made that mistake again.

@JackL said:
Never use ratchet straps !

I agree avoid them