@PaddleDog52 said:
They make them for pickup? Go wide.
Both Thule and Yakima have them, they use clips to secure the rack to the vehicle.
Ok.
Just remember that the handles of the Hullavator will extend another 6" beyond then end of the bar, which needs to extend past the outboard edge of the Foot 4"-8" in order to clear the sides of your vehicle.
See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
Hyde Park, NY
845-229-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
Facebook: fb.me/theriverconnection
Hulivators don’t like to go on Yakima racks. Good luck.
Actually they do go onto round bars just fine, with a little help. On the lower bar mount assembly are two holes which are normally used for t-slot but attachments. Once the mount is attached to the bar use this hole as a pilot hole to drill into the top of the bar to receive a self tapping screw/bolt so as to pin the mount in place preventing it from rotating around the round bar.
Someone asked me yesterday how many Hullavator units I’ve installed. Too many to count.
See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
9 W. Market St.
Hyde Park, NY
845-229-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
Facebook: fb.me/theriverconnection
My GMC Crew Cab 4x4 is just too high off the ground for any of the cab racks to be effective, of course my 5’8’’ height didn’t help. I would end up climbing into the bed and lifting it up onto the cab, just too awkward. Also tried a front hitch with a goalpost rack that was just as awkward. Now using a Back Rack with a lower cross bar on the rear of the bed so I don’t need a ladder to load the boat. Marshall, do they make a long leg Hullivator or an extension that drops down far enough to use on a high truck cab?
Actually they do go onto round bars just fine, with a little help. On the lower bar mount assembly are two holes which are normally used for t-slot but attachments. Once the mount is attached to the bar use this hole as a pilot hole to drill into the top of the bar to receive a self tapping screw/bolt so as to pin the mount in place preventing it from rotating around the round bar.
See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
9 W. Market St.
Hyde Park, NY
845-229-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
Facebook: fb.me/theriverconnection
@Marshall said:
Actually they do go onto round bars just fine, with a little help. On the lower bar mount assembly are two holes which are normally used for t-slot but attachments. Once the mount is attached to the bar use this hole as a pilot hole to drill into the top of the bar to receive a self tapping screw/bolt so as to pin the mount in place preventing it from rotating around the round bar.Someone asked me yesterday how many Hullavator units I’ve installed. Too many to count.
Are the new Hullavators compatible with the Yakima T slot jetstream bars? Thanks for the info on the additional overhang of the Hullavator. I knew the bars had to extend 4" past the towers.
Thru-bolting or screwing to the bar would certainly limit the rotation of the clamps on the hulivator bracket clamps.
But on mine there was a clearance problem with the attachment of the bars at to the Yakima bed towers. It made the brackets sit 1/4" above the bar. Truck also made the handles 7 ft off the ground. So I converted to adjustable Thule bed towers.
Shiraz, yes the new Hullavators are compatible with most T-Slot applications.
See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
Hyde Park, NY
845-229-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
Facebook: fb.me/theriverconnection
Here is the offending bed tower to bar connection.
To connect the Hullivator there shims would have to be installed.
I’m not going to do a bed rack since I have a tonneau cover.
@shiraz627 said:
@Marshall said:
…extend 4" past the towers.
…
and the side of the truck. You may have to fold the mirrors in.
Even though my truck is not a 4 x 4 height might be an issue for the vertical challenged.
Oversrreet,
Instead of shims what about making an adaptor plate out of alum. (Or steel) to sit atop the Yakima bar shackle. Counter sink the holes and use bolts with a taper head so they sit flush so as not to interfere with the Hullavator bar mount assembly. In the center of the adaptor plate set a M6 bolt to run vertically upward so as to fit one of the t-slot holes in the bar mount assembly (or drill another if need be). If the adaptor plate is wider than the Hullavator bar mount then it should sit securely atop the plate and you can use the standard onboard thule shackle on the inside. Heck use both inboard and outboard shackles just for the extra strength of 3 attachment points.
The Adaptor plate is the same concept as what I make for kayak Sails where you can utilize the existing rdf rather than drill more holes.
See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
9 W. Market St.
Hyde Park, NY
845-229-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
Facebook: fb.me/theriverconnection
That would likely work.
shiraz, just a thought. I have a full size 4x4 Silverado. I use my Yakima racks on the 4 door cab. The easiest way to load the boat is to put it in the bed, push it forward almost to the front, push down on the stern of the boat, when the bow gets to the proper height shove it forward onto the rear bar. Then lift the stern and shove the boat forward to the front bar.
Depending on your boat and truck, it may take some practice. Mine works out fine and a very fast way to load with minimum stress on the old joints!
@tjalmy said:
shiraz, just a thought. I have a full size 4x4 Silverado. I use my Yakima racks on the 4 door cab. The easiest way to load the boat is to put it in the bed, push it forward almost to the front, push down on the stern of the boat, when the bow gets to the proper height shove it forward onto the rear bar. Then lift the stern and shove the boat forward to the front bar.
Depending on your boat and truck, it may take some practice. Mine works out fine and a very fast way to load with minimum stress on the old joints!
What length bars do you use? I’m thinking 70" since I use 58" bars on my Hyundai Sante Fe. I do have a Yakima Sweet Roll that would facilitate loading from the bed so would be an option.
58" is what I’m using. I would prefer them to be longer, but it’s what I have and it works. I have a BedRug bed liner which helps, but I’m sure a piece of carpet on the tailgate would do the same.
On my Yakima saddles, I use terry cloth buffer pads. They help it slide nicely and they’ve never blown off.
I guess the best thing about the 58" bars is that I can keep the roof racks in the bed of the truck across the front of the bed when not in use! They don’t take up a whole lot of space that way.