Yep
I did the same thing hermiting did, got the same answer. So what other silicon based items that you can find at your local auto-zone have folks used? the problem i have with 303 besides its price & availability is that it doesn’t last very long and seems to wash off pretty quick…
Simple test proposal
– Last Updated: Apr-07-08 8:05 AM EST –
I think I should try this, as I've intended to for a while; Two strips of 'clear' poly sheet, one with 303(or other product) applied, one without, about 4" X 8" each. Tape them to the front page of your local newspaper and place on the rear deck of any sedan for two sunny days. That should provide answers to questions regarding effective UV filtration/reflection. I agree with Swedge that the stuff washes off almost as soon as it hits water. Perhaps more tests involving immersion?
303-armorall
303 has more uv protection. this will rage on i’m sure. i’ve used 303 0n my boats for years. It seems to work. VF
i hope
i wear my boat out before any product i shine it with has a chance to.after looking at the shiny rutted up bottom. i think ive got a sizable lead
UV Tech
McNett UV Tech is better than both of them.
Armorall is cheap
That’s why I use it on everything and some times I will buy a rip-off brand called 203. It works great on VCP and Kayak Sport lids - makes them go on easier. I rub my fiberglass and varnished boats with it for an instant shine. If I’m going to a wood boat show, I rub them down with Armorall and they look like they were just varnished.
The only thing I use the 303 on is my dry suit seals - only because they recommend it and the manufacturers must have done some research and those are 100% rubber. I also spray it on my zippers.
Aluminum Foil
works better than even that.
Someone did a test on PFDs
They 303’ed one half of the back and left the other half untreated, took photos before and after. There was a remarkable difference in fading between the two halves in the “after” photo.
I don’t use either on my kayaks, except for the rubber hatch lids. My negative experiences with Armor-All drying out rubber and vinyl was on automotive dashboards. 303 does not dry them out.
Foil slick
in my wake? I think night paddling is the answer.
I find Armorall leaves a sticky film
in the car. I started using 303 and don’t get the dust build-up I did with Armorall.
The not being water proof is stupid
No one is looking for water proofing, that’s the job of the boat surface. 303 washes off from use and I suspect at the same rate as Armor All and the rest.
Anyone who claims a ‘slick’ in the H2o
has not followed the instructions, and has apparently lathered their hull in the stuff! Have used 303 for years, per their instructions, and have NEVER seen any ‘slick’ coming off my boats! It doesn’t take much and I guess it takes a certain amount of trust, apparently lacking in the nay sayers, who infer that if you can’t see it… it can’t be doing anything, so they lather it on and get a ‘slick’. Kinda like sun screen on your arms, you can’t see it once it’s rubbed in, but I’m gonna believe it’s doing it’s job. My skincoat kevlar hulls have spent some 15 years baking on my car in S. Illinois sun, and still look newer, and lighter color, than customers who haven’t used it on like hulls only a couple years old. I still remember rubbing down my windsurfing sails years ago the day I got 'em, and they never showed as much sun fade compaired to friends untreated sails, with as much usage. I gotta believe anyone claiming it washes off and leaves a ‘slick’, has as I mentioned above put way too much of the stuff on. IF you buff it in as recommended, it will be dry to the touch, and leave absolutely no ‘slick’. If you wanna know how it works, give the folks at 303 a call. I’ve spoken with them concerning it’s use on my sails years ago, and currently on my kevlar skincoat canoes. You will get a lot of information, if you care to actually learn something about how the product works, and more importantly…its proper application and usage. For the record I’ve used Mcnetts product also, with equal results.
Application as per instructions
with a 10" suare piece of a washed, old cotton terry towel not quite saturated with 303 on a 15 yr. old RX canoe. Have never slathered the stuff on, as I am a ‘frugal Yankee’(tightwad) and the stuff’s not cheap. Buffed off, with the dry, clean remainder of said towel, as much as my 6’,220# frame is capable of while applying moderate to heavy pressure. No discernable ‘greasy’ feel, but lo, there’s that irridescent ribbon reflecting off the surface surrounding my boat! Perhaps the slightly chalked vinyl is holding onto more ‘protectant’ than your skincoat? Also, it seems, after only an hour or two of lilydipping, the wetted surface seems as dull and dry as before application. I’m glad that you’ve had good results with these products, Rick. I,however, remain skeptical and for goodness’ sake, man, GET SOME SLEEP!
ok
what about the OTHER non-armorall UV protectants, some are silicon based. Like I said I think 303, washes off too fast, and its too expensive, and its hard to find.
Again…
It is a UV inhibitor (sunscreen!), not a ‘shine’ product. It is not intended to leave a ‘shine’, and is akin to an application of sunscreen on your body, which I’ve never seen leave any visible sign it’s on my skin. I usually apply 303 and after buffing it in, with consecutively (I’ve never been able to use just one rag to buff dry) new clean and dry rags, it has no ‘shine’ and leaves no ‘slick’ when in the H2o. I might add the hull always sits at least 24 hours before it sees the H2o again. IF a ‘shine’ is what you are using it for, you will probably see no results. And that goes the same for royalex. The ONLY time I’ve ever seen 303 leave a ‘shine’ was on a badly faded Bell royalex hull I recently sold to a customer, He on the other hand had applied a LOT of 303 to his faded hull and let it sit a spell, and used a power car wax buffer for over 2 hours to buff the surface. Frankly, I was shocked, as the hull looked new/unfaded after that, and felt as if I’d given the boat away! His results/method of application were out of the ordinary but did leave an ‘as new’ appearance to his royalex hull. I would again recommend giving the folks at 303 a call, and ask about the results you are getting. They have always been more than happy to talk to me whenever I’ve called.
303 is a snake oil pollutant
303 is a pollutant and should not be used on boats. The company fails to offer any proof that it works to protect boats from UV.
Will you back up your claims this time?
You never did the last time. If your claims are true, you should have some proof of it.
I don’t know much…
but I know one thing, back in '92 I used Armorall
on my vinyl jeep top, and it ate some holes in the top. For that reason alone, I won’t use it on my vinyl skinned boat. I don’t know that 303 works any better, but it’s never seemed to have caused any damage to anything I’ve used it on.
-MEAT
From the OT FAQ Section
This came from the Old Town website in their FAQ section. I didn’t see a previous reference.
HULL EXTERIOR: Wash with mild soap and water. You can also use Murphy’s Oil Soap. To beautify, we suggest a vinyl protectant product such as Armor All®, 303 Products or Pledge. These are safe for use on any of our PolyLink3™, Oltonar/Royalex®, CrossLink, SuperLink3™ and Fiberglass canoes or kayaks.
If it’s really
that finicky to apply properly, then I’m not interested. C’mon, Rick. I’d rather lick my hull clean than spend that much time on a boat that’s already more than halfway through its’ life anyway!