My car and truck have metal to metal where the trunk lid and hood close on the vehicle body. While helping my niece and her husband secure kayaks to the rook of their SUV, I recall they had plastic interference that prevented a metal to metal pinch point when the hood closed. They solved the issue, but don’t recall how, so it’s a point to look at before going to pick up a boat for the first time.
I have used the loops the @Rookie mentioned above. But, for the hood I actually like these better:
Seattle Sports Hood Loops | REI Co-op
They have an eyelet that you fasten to the car under the hood using a preexisting screw. I fold them down under the hood when not in use. My Subaru has a very conveniently placed screw right behind the wrap around front lights. YMMV
I recently installed the Malone Aero bars. They seem very solid, the attachment seems very secure. I’m paranoid and so after strapping down I pull on the kayak hard enough to rock the whole minivan. The bars don’t move. Test fitting the foam blocks, I pounded them on from the side with a large mallet. They didn’t move. I’ve looked at Thule and Yakima aero bars and they sure look very similar. The Malone bars also come with the locks included.
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Hullavator will mount to round bars but will pivot. Fixable by drilling into the round bar through the bar mount assembly T-slot bolt hole. Once you have a hole use one of the M6 bolts provided to thread into your new hole in the Yakima bar directly under the T-slot bolt hole in the bar assembly. Perhaps too much personal experience.
Got them on the way from Amazon. Thank you for the offer though
I really like this idea but I have questions. Drilling into a round bar sounds like tricky business. I can see a drill bit skidding all over the place. How exactly do you do this? Do you do it while it’s on the car, using some part of the adapter as a guide? And do you drill through both sides? What size drill bit? Does this weaken the crossbar?
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No trick involved. Attach the bar mount assembly to the round bars and use the T-Slot holes as your guide to drill through the top of the round bar. You do not need to drill through the bottom of the bar. Coat the M6 37mm bolt with some sealant for good measure and thread into your hole. In fact it doesn’t need to thread all that much to work as a drift pin locking the bar mount assembly in place atop the bar. Or you can just come by and I can install.
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Thanks, Marshall! This sounds easily do-able.
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Easy enough to screw down a loop of strap with a hole melted through it under a front quarter panel attachment screw. The screw is right below the edge of the engine hood. It can be out through the crack when needed and folded down inside when not hauling kayaks. I have never distorted the hood using this system.
just tie the lines around the hood hinges, easy, done.
Center punch the round bar where you want the drill to make a hole.
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Thanks! I guess the size screw doesn’t matter much? What kind of sealant should I use? My Hullavator was delayed but should be here in March.
You could cancel and I’ll get one out to you today. 18 on hand.
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Thanks, Marshall, but I’m good. I’m recovering from surgery so can’t do anything with it right now anyway.