Looks like some of y’all think I’m fix’n to box the compass. Happily, there are no flotation problems. No lack of port quarter navigators here.
Anyone have any suggestions to make those flat aluminum seats more comfortable? Aside from remove & replace?
That’s what those “throw pillow” style flotation cushions (of the same era, I’m sure) were for.
Since they might be hard to find, get yourself some Minicel foam and figure out a creative way to attach it (duct tape?).
@Sparky961 said:
That’s what those “throw pillow” style flotation cushions (of the same era, I’m sure) were for.Since they might be hard to find, get yourself some Minicel foam and figure out a creative way to attach it (duct tape?).
I’ll look into that stuff. Thank you!
Sleeping pad for camping might do in a pinch, but probably not as UV resistant.
@grayhawk said:
Anything man can make … man can repair…
I think there is a corollary… Anything man can make man can break. Sometimes as in the workshop now here at the same time
Using minicel foam to pad aluminum seats is certainly an option, but I would not use 3" thick plank and you can probably find cheaper sources than Chesapeake Light Craft. Plank that thick is good for building up pedestals, or carving out a contoured seat to put in the bottom of a kayak. Thick plank is much more expensive and won’t conform to any degree of curvature as well. Plank that is 1-1 1/2" thick would work better. And I wouldn’t use 3M 5200 sealant to bond it in either. I would use DAP Weldwood contact cement (flammable variety) which is much cheaper. Use steel wool on the aluminum seats to get them clean and shiny. Rough up the bonding surface of the foam with sandpaper. Apply the contact cement using a cheap “acid brush” available in nearly any hardware store and apply 2 or 3 coats to the foam.
There are also a wide variety of strap-on padded canoe seat pads, some of which have backrests attached. You can look at some varieties here:
@pblanc said:
Using minicel foam to pad aluminum seats is certainly an option, but I would not use 3" thick plank and you can probably find cheaper sources than Chesapeake Light Craft. Plank that thick is good for building up pedestals, are carving out a contoured seat to put in the bottom of a kayak. Thick plank is much more expensive and won’t conform to any degree of curvature as well. Plank that is 1-1 1/2" thick would work better. And I wouldn’t use 3M 5200 sealant to bond it in either. I would use DAP Weldwood contact cement (flammable variety) which is much cheaper. Use steel wool on the aluminum seats to get them clean and shiny. Rough up the bonding surface of the foam with sandpaper. Apply the contact cement using a cheap “acid brush” available in nearly any hardware store and apply 2 or 3 coats to the foam.There are also a wide variety of strap-on padded canoe seat pads, some of which have backrests attached. You can look at some varieties here:
Great reply, much appreciated!
@Schuylkill said:
Well, gee whiz, if all that’s true, maybe I shouldn’t have performed any work on these …
My in law the retired Master Chief , fixed wing mech, takes on these kind of projects too just to prove he still can. And they usually come out well enough.
If the rivets leak there are options. However for a southern redneck play around fishing boat Flexseal products can’t be beat for fast repairs.
https://www.flexsealproducts.com/shop/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwguDeBRDCARIsAGxuU8a2TTt-CoFs0otjPgpCKsLgK0OivnB-ZTMwgA3wiPss6ytEJYKqxrcaAl-hEALw_wcB
I gave the neighbor an old fiberglass canoe and he Flexseal 'ed it and uses it in his farm in the pond to fish from.
@Overstreet said:
If the rivets leak there are options. However for a southern redneck play around fishing boat Flexseal products can’t be beat for fast repairs.
https://www.flexsealproducts.com/shop/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwguDeBRDCARIsAGxuU8a2TTt-CoFs0otjPgpCKsLgK0OivnB-ZTMwgA3wiPss6ytEJYKqxrcaAl-hEALw_wcBI gave the neighbor an old fiberglass canoe and he Flexseal 'ed it and uses it in his farm in the pond to fish from.
That’s exactly what my US Marine brother recommended!
@Sparky961 said:
That’s what those “throw pillow” style flotation cushions (of the same era, I’m sure) were for.Since they might be hard to find, get yourself some Minicel foam and figure out a creative way to attach it (duct tape?).
Look what I found 
https://walmart.com/ip/Stearns-Utility-Boat-Cushion/23895113
Re Flexseal - I want to hate it because it is one of those late night TV items. But I ended up trying it on my roof three yrs ago to patch a potential leak. City rubber roof, happily tilted not flat. I had a tiny leak that happened one time when the tail end of a hurricane came thru with a good bit of oomph left. No other time even with a snow load so I knew it was a pretty tiny opportunity. I figured if I got something on it before it turned major I could stave off the big job. I went up with both the spray and a roll of patch material and used both generously while I was there.
Not a drop since then. And there were a few places that were vulnerable to beginning leaks as time went on, where the seal on the edges of a piece of rubber was looking a little dry.
It is heavy so probably not the best plan for a boat restoration. But the stuff does work.
Comes in different colors too.
This is a canoe that i might think twice about resurrecting. Flooding, Mt. Holly, NJ, 2004.
To the workshop!
Hey Schuylkill, it’s always nice to see a canoe getting some love, especially a brave canoe like yours that took a hit from a tree while waiting for you outside and never complaining.
Regarding seat pads, flotation cushions may be a bit thick…they will raise your seating position. You might look for a hunter’s seat pad like shown in the pic or a stadium seating pad like the one on the link. Cheap and comfy.
If you get the chance I think you’d really enjoy meeting Carl from Carl’s Paddlin in Lone Rock Wisconsin. Carl has hundreds of canoes including lots of very well used boats that he has rescued that others might think are past their useful life.
When you get ready to float it again post a pic on the “Show off your boat…” thread.
@TomL I shall look into those! Thanks!
@Waterbearer it could happen.
Progress. All of the sheet metal is facing the right direction now.
