Answers
I probably will put a thwart behind the seat, but the extra thwart I thought I in the barn, isn’t there. Will have to order one. But that’s ok, because I MAY relocate the seat. I’ll do the thwart after I’m satisfied with the seat.
The flag is kind of a nice touch, but I get no credit for that. The little “Made in America” flag was on there from the factory.
As for “Tubes,” I’ve always drilled painter holes in the stems of my royalex boats that didn’t come with them. I’ve never used the tubes and none of the pre=drilled royalex and poly boats I’ve owned had them. Never had a problem with the vinyl peeling at the holes.
Take care!
replacement rivet size ?
what size are the Bryce rivets ?
does the new seat support handle picking hull up by the seat ?
using four separate seat support points increases potential damages forces if one support gunwale area takes a hard shot…
the plate support would spread the impact over a wider area than one wooden dowel point.
After removing the aluminum supports, is there a possibility of reinstalling the aluminum back into the gunwale/hull area ?
is there a portage rig or wheels ?
Rivets et al
– Last Updated: Apr-28-15 8:23 AM EST –
The rivets are 3/16, same as the Wenonah, but has a wider "Cap" if that's what you call it?
Going to make a removable yoke since the initial seat position is too far from center to easily carry. Yesterday I just slung it over my shoulder; DEFINITELY not as light as my friend's Placid boats that he carries that way!
I haven't used the 4 separate dowels in a long time, but had them so thought I'd try them. I typically use the "Arched Truss" like hangers that are very sturdy. I do not like the metal hangers, never have. Not pleasing to the eye, I've encountered sharp edges in the past, and the seat height is not where I want it. Would the aluminum hangers increase hull integrity a bit? Probably. But don't like 'em, don't want 'em. But, by drilling out the rivets, they CAN be re-installed.
I do have some old portage wheels in the barn that a friend gave me. Thanks for that suggestion, I'll try them!
I don’t think
the aluminum plates are really designed to be structural. They’re more hangers than anything. I base this at least in part on the fact that Wenonah puts a thwart right behind the seat on most (all?) of its solos. That’s one reason I was surprised not to see one there on wildernesswebb’s boat.
When I removed the center seat on a Spirit II this weekend I replaced it with a yoke which certainly added some rigidity.
You can make them a bit more
structural by stuffing some minicell foam between the plate and the hull.
Mohawk
I like it! I would like to do the same with my Mohawk Solo 14. I currently have an ugly arrangement with wooden spacers coming up from the metal hangers to raise/tilt the seat.
Am I reading this to say that the Mohawk metal hanger also has a lip on the top? Am I going to have to drill out a bunch more rivets to get them out? Anything else to watch out for?
Thanks
Not Allowed?
Pretty submissive for a former jet fighter pilot?
if you bash the gunwale/plate
the complete plate moves as one piece moving the complete seat side as one…in doing this force is spread over the elegant and sturdy but not indestructible seat structure.
The OP’s 2/4 point hung system places all force at one very small area.
Can you just cut it?
– Last Updated: Apr-28-15 11:27 PM EST –
It sounds like you are more concerned with aesthetics than function so this idea might not please you, but if you don't mind leaving a bit of the metal hanger there, how about just cutting it off at the shortest distance below the gunwale that you can manage? I'm not sure what the best method would be. I bet there's a specialized power tool out there that would do a nice, neat job. Actually, just thinking as I go here, I bet you could do it with a circular saw with tungsten-carbide teeth. Run the base of the saw on the gunwale, set the depth to just go beyond the sheet metal, and put a spacer behind it to keep it away from the hull, and perhaps a covering material which can be braced to keep everything steady. I bet you could do a very professional-looking removal, leaving the cut edge so close below the gunwale as to be invisible except when you put your head inside the boat.
Edit: If you do it this way, the spacer on the back side of the sheet metal is not just to keep the saw blade from hitting the hull. It will also keep hot cuttings from hitting the hull, which with Royalex, is important.
Also, if your current seat-height spacers are ugly, you can get some nice round ones from Mohawk that don't look too bad. I can't remember if they are made of wood or colored plastic, because after about eight years of paddling the boat, I really don't even see them anymore.
I would rather remove 'em
Thanks, but I think I would rather remove the metal hanger all together. I don’t know that I trust myself with a circular saw in there and do not have one that would allow me to cut that far up.
The metal hangers have offended me from day one. I am trying to visualize the top lip and what I need to do to remove the hanger. Looks like WW has done that on a Solo 14.
Okay
– Last Updated: Apr-29-15 11:05 AM EST –
You DO have a saw that would allow you to cut "that far up." That's why I said to run the base of the saw on the gunwale (the inside edge of the gunwale). You could even build "table" to lay against the inside of the hull to provide a second surface on which the saw would slide, so it couldn't tip no matter what (because tipping the saw the wrong way while it rides the gunwale would make the blade cut deeper). But I won't take it any farther than that. I hope the removal project goes well.
some where
– Last Updated: Apr-30-15 9:49 PM EST –
herein is 'cutting the horizontal lip off.
No problem easily done with carbide wheel.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=wzfwmo
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=wzfxbf
sea the one with screw holes ?
is the engineering staff up to considering force thresholds on x screws each side in ? aluminum plate ? adding an extra strip allowable.
but your hull is left with the vertical plate...
very problematic...one adventure that may go on for some time.
Tempered Rivets
ALuminum rivets may be had in superior alloys and heat tempered. Bell bought them by the 10,000. Steel would rust.
Fighter Pilot (LOL)?
I’ve been punched a few times as a nurse, but no “Fighting” and no “Pilot” except of canoes (LOL)! Hopefully Dr. will permit me to go after Monday’s visit? Hehehe, already planning on it whether “Ye” or “Ney!”
Hey, "Countrygent"
I HAVE done the same with two Mohawk Solo 14’s. You have to have the seat up pretty high in that boat for kneeling:
http://www.pbase.com/ozarkpaddler/image/155011215
http://www.pbase.com/ozarkpaddler/image/155011218