“Horse For The Course…”
Report of yesterday's session at a point break. I definitely appreciated the abiity to accelerate quickly.
"Both you and John caught that "monster." I was watching John get his
ride. I looked over to you and couldn't see anything. Then I saw the
bottom of the hull and then another breaking wave. Ooooh boy... It
was pretty scary to see you getting pushed towards the sea wall.
John wanted to head in to help you. I thought it was not a good idea
because the break was tight and concentrated almost right against the
wall. Figured you would rather swim back to shore than get run
over. :)
When I caught my wave, I was surprised at highly quickly it
pitched. I tried to get off at the shoulder but there was a sort of
water "wall" that formed right next to it. I couldn't bust through
the "wall" and get off the wave. The closeout tumbled me. I rolled
up and got tumbled again. The wave let go and I rolled up only to
get hit by another breaking wave. The whole time I was thinking that
I have got to be getting darn close to that sea wall and also
submerged boulders... My last roll up, I was about 5' feet from the
hitting the sea wall. I paddled like heck and got out of Dodge!
Watching Mark was scary. Experiencing it first hand was TRAUMATIC!
After bagging Nantasket, I went home and slept a good 3 hours.
I feel much better now. Surf tomorrow? Only 15' plus... Have fun
y'all. I am going to ME where it's safer. LOL!"
sing