Another Newbie, kayak and equipment question

Advice
#21

I like it! It actually feels like it was intended for a fairly lightweight adult. Yet the kneebumps allow plenty of freedom of movement for the legs. I will probably replace the minicell thighbrace pads I glued on with something a little thicker, when the time comes. Until then, it’s fine as is, perfectly rollable, and I’ve been paddling it for almost 7 years now.

The boat is quick if you give it halfway decent effort. It is easier to edge than the Explorer LV despite not having as snug a cockpit fit (and as noted, adding thicker minicell is an option). I don’t know if it is “faster” than the Explorer, but it is easier to maintain a good cruising speed in…must be the narrower width. Stability is very good, less than in the Explorer, but more than enough for light paddlers. The knee bumps seem to add stability when angled way over.

One thing I love is the small hung glass seat. This is the only stock seat that felt right for me without any changes. They offer it in two sizes. I even kept the stock seat band, but instead of letting it sit the usual way, I tucked the bottom edge of the band behind the raised rear lip of the seat. That way, it is low enough for my taste. It stays put nicely.

The bow has fairly good volume. It was not prone to pearling in surf. However, when paddling out or anytime in bigger chop, it can be a bopper. It doesn’t cut through, but rises up and then whaps down. At least, it does for me.

It has the usual trait of weathercocking, easily controlled. I rarely use the skeg.

When reverse paddling, it is harder to keep straight than the regular (shorter) Pilgrim, or the Tempest 165 I used to have. That’s the only quibble I have. Oh, and the weight. It is not a light boat, but that’s nothing unusual for a standard glass layup.

If you get a chance to demo one, do it! There aren’t many narrow sea kayaks unless you count SOF.

#22

@pikabike
Thanks for the info. I see that it’s 19.75 wide, but can’t find anything about weight. Will keep my eyes open in the off chance I ever see one

#23

I’ve seen weight listed at anywhere from 53 to 55 lbs. Yeah, right. I have never weighed mine, but it is lighter than the Explorer LV was, or the roto Squall. Fairly similar to the roto T165. My PEX has a keel strip. I would guesstimate weight as being 56-58 lbs.

#24

Update: First, thanks to everyone for taking the time to chime in. This past weekend held some nice surprises. Prior to the demo, we took a second hard look at our needs in what we want do. We came to the realization that we would be 3-5 hours at most, reasonably close to shore on decent days (decent days not always guaranteed).

With that in mind, we were able to demo 3 Kayaks from the Eddyline stable. Rio, Skylark and Equinox. This was in addition to the Tsunami 125 from the previous week. We didn’t like the Tsunamis. The Eddylines were appealing due to weight. Not to mention, they do make a damn nice boat to look at. :slight_smile:

I initially took the Skylark out (12’ with 26" beam and a roomy 35x18.5 cockpit) and it was “ok”. Felt a lot like the Tsunami did. In a word, a bit lumbering. My Wife took the Rio (11.9’, 24" beam and 31.75x15.5 cockpit) out and instantly fell in love once she felt at ease and locked into it. She really made it dance. I struggled to keep up with her. When we decided to let it rip, she was easily a full length ahead of me. Then we switched. The Rio for me, was twitchy the moment I sat in. Twitchy, but fast. However, the Rio didn’t like me much and in less than 10 minutes, she dumped me. When I dumped, a wonderful young lady on a SUP came up and offered assistance and said she just finsished her guide class and talked us through a successful “T” rescue. What a fantastic learning experience that was! It also reinforced our desire to take classes on self rescue.

After that, I tried the Equinox (14’, 25" beam, 35x18.5 cockpit) and found the perfect balance of stability and speed for me. At 45lbs, still easily to be handled. It was also definitely faster than the Skylark. The Wife absolutely loved the Rio and I really loved the Equinox. So that’s what we went with!

As far as the second part of my intitial question, we purchased bilge pumps and dual chambered paddle floats to have when we take classes. We realized that we should learn to be self sufficient, just in case. It is definitely not an if but a when. Skirts and other nice to haves to follow. We also found our Werner Skagits light enough and are great beginner paddles. Now we are looking at some carts as some access points around Tahoe require a wee bit of traveling once you park.

#25

Glad to hear you each found boats that make you happy! I would suggest that if you try anything in the PNW, like full ocean, you find an outfitter to get you out there and use their boats. At least the first time. And follow their guidance on clithing. That way you can focus on the trip rather than gear or whatever.

#26

Thanks for the update - so few folks do that. And congrats on your new kayaks. EDY makes good boats and you’ll have a great time learning new skills.

One suggestion (presuming both kayaks came with a back rest): drop the back rest to the bottom hole so that it’s not above the cockpit rim or it’s going to interfere with torso rotation as well as be a PITA when you’re trying to get back into your boat. Better yet, replace it with a backband (set low). You have the Infinity seats in both kayaks; it’s a quick and easy change.

Those paddle floats and bilge pumps need to be carried always, not just for lessons. Here’s a good video on a heel hook for a solo paddler: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbIW-rQtqVQ

Super that you were helped out and walked through the T-rescue. Lessons with a good instructor are tremendously helpful for both technique and safety purposes.

Enjoy!

#27

Beware. This is the technique I was trying when I snapped a paddle! Now, I know this paddle did already have previous damage and that’s where it let go, but I’m skeptical of this particular one because I had done many, many successful traditional paddle float reentries prior to trying this one and snapping the paddle first try.

If you look where his hand is on the paddle, there’s a huge amount of weight being put right in the middle of the paddle shaft. Fine if your paddle is either super strong, or really cheap (ie: replaceable). Traditional paddle float reentries should put your weight at the end of the paddle with the float (your leg/ankle) and the rest of it directly on the boat. Strain in the middle of the paddle is limited.

#28

The way I see it, he did a pretty decent job of keeping his hand/paddle shaft right over the combing. Thus the shaft was well supported and unlikely to break. If his reach was further from the boat, the paddle would be much more likely to fail.

The key in this rescue is to get your weight over the centerline of the craft quickly, and he does this well. Not sure there was a time I could do it better. This ensures that whatever pressure there is on the paddle is of very short duration, further reducing the risk of paddle failure.

I learned the latter method you describe for the paddle float (it was what was taught back then). My experience was that this actually puts more strain on the paddle as there is a lot of weight on a long shaft (lever). This technique (I believe) means the paddle has to hold a greater amount of your weight for a longer period of time. I never had a paddle fail on me, but it certainly flex when doing this. I have never felt the paddle flex during the heel hook.

That’s my experience, anyway. The method Broze intended when he created the device was that you hold the combing and paddle, with the float under your right arm (assuming you are boarding from the right/starboard side), just behind the shoulder. Feet go in first and you wiggle/slide into the cockpit. I’ve tried this, as well, but never found it worked very well for me. Still, something to try for those younger, fitter, and more spry than I am now.

Rick