Aquabound Carbon vs. Hybrid blades

Miguel, if I may ask, how wide is your kayak? I use a 230cm with my Pungo 120, 29 inches/73.66cm wide, as suggested by the Kayak Paddle Sizing tag. The Posilok is worth the extra wait, no movement/clicking of the ferrule while paddling.

1 Like

Thank you! I’m planning to use the paddle with two rec boats (SOT and SI) , both are rotomolded and about 75cm wide. I hesitated a bit about length, but boats are fatty and wide enough, I think 2.30 will work well

1 Like

Miguel, I started with a 220 cm paddle and felt like I was always reaching. I paddle open water in a 14.5 ft kayak and cover distances. I adopted a low angle style with a narrow touring blade and stay in an aerobic zone. I settled on 240 cm, then tried the same paddle in 250 cm, occasionally switch back and forth between the two lengths. I’ve never compared the two for time, but I always return to the 250 cm. I don’t care what other paddlers use, it’s what I like. Its important to point out that both blades are 99 sq inches, and I wouldn’t use a 110 sq inches blade at 250 cm length - too much resistance, in fact I’d like to drop my surface are to 95 square inches. The longer length let’s me lower my paddle angle which takes strain off a bad shoulders. My primary power comes from torso rotation. Im considering some paddles recommended in other posts, but I want to experiment a little before I invest another $450 in a paddle. One caveat I need to add, if you’re laboring with a specific paddler, you don’t want to increase the length.

I compare paddling to pushing a playground merry-go-round. Start gradually and increase paddle cadence as the boat speed increased. Where it seems the thin blade would slip through the water without accelerating, the high cadence is just catching water moving past the boat. As the boat picks up speed, you’re just maintaining momentum. The merry-go-round can go faster with less effort because of the bearings. Unfortunately, water resistance, drag and the hull efficiency limits the potential speed through water.

I’m not recommending any specific paddle, size or technique, but merely explaining what I use and do. Paddle length guides are nothing more than a starting point.

2 Likes

Paddle length , as repeatedly noted, depends on boat width. The other factor is body dimensions. I can paddle a standard canoe with a 230 but I am tall with long arms. I use the same paddle with my Tarpon because the seated position is low and I bang my knuckles on the edge of the cockpit with a shorter paddle.
In a surf ski I use a 210.

1 Like

Dear friend, thank you very much… I think the length charts are very useful starting points -at least for me-, and then one’s own style, preferences, your boat, etc etc complete the story. I agree with what you say, at the end of the day, it only matters what makes you feel good and comfortable while paddling.

In my city there are many young paddlers who love competition and training, and many kayak fishermen with horrible paddles and paddling styles… but once on the water, you can really be surprised who performs better, especially in long distances. :grinning:
So, every feedback I have received on this topic is really helpful, and although I have already made my purchase and am now just waiting for it, all the advice is helpful and confirms what I had intuited when I bought it.

Since we are “in the family”, I take the opportunity to show you my three boats, a 510cm sea kayak (with it I use my Eagle Ray Carbon 220) and the two rotomolded rec boats, for which I plan to use my new Manta Ray Hybrid 230.

Thanks to each and everyone!

4 Likes

My paddle preference is typically at odds with many members of the forum. I don’t offer it as the right approach, but explain what I’m comfortable with. My paddling angle is far lower than anyone I ever paddled with. For me, boat width isn’t even a factor. I’m probably viewed as a clueless rube when it comes to picking a paddle,and more than one experienced paddler feels that the speeds I reach pushing a fat, blunt nose Tsunami . . . Improbable, to put it kindly. I don’t mind the skepticism. If it was improbable, I’d adopt another technique. I truely would.

1 Like

Miguel, nice boats by the way. Especially the long one. Is that 5.10 meters.

1 Like

Thank you! yes, the long one is 5.10m. The other ones are 3.50m (SOT) and 3.80 (Sit In)

My comment is in regards to carbon blade stiffness, with a full carbon fiber paddle (no nylon) like a Werner Ikelos or Cyprus the blade does not flex at all, and the foam core makes the blade want to pop out of the water at the end of the stroke, a real energy saver.

Sandman1221, I’m also a fan of the Werner carbon/foam core features and the stiffness; the lightness is a positive ‘side’ benefit. However, what I favor most is how their blades perform, and the way the high-end paddles balance in the grip within a few strokes.

As I followed the many paddle threads and user comments, the foam core buoyancy made me think about the natural buoyancy of wood. After I bought a Douglas Fir blank to make a Greenland Paddle, it occurred to me that strength and a thin blade isn’t the only goal for a paddle design. Nor is lightness or surface area. A paddle is different things to different people. The fabulous thing about this forum is the information at your fingertips that you never even asked for. While we debate the best paddle, the best brand, high/low, touring, cost, or for that matter, boat stabilty. Here’s a picture of a paddle, but looking outside of that topic, notice it highlights a amazing point about boat stability. It’s the first question I ask about a kayak, then get frustrated because an experienced sea kayaker reacts like it was a stupid question. Duh! Stability is different things to different people. I also never thought you could roll a 14 ft Pungo. I can’t do a lot of these things, but it sure makes me think about trying.

I’ve used paddles with nylon reinforced plastic blades like the Aqua Bound Sting Ray. I actually like it, and can’t think of a better paddle for the money; I own three for guest paddlers. I only used one paddle that had so much flex, I wouldn’t use it again. I think there’s a difference between flex (bad) and springiness (good?).

So much information goes over my head the first time around, I find that reviewing the same posts a few months later helps me to appreciate points that I missed. If a thread was good the first time around. It’s even better the second time.

1 Like

Dear friends, I just received my Manta Ray Hybrid 2.30 and it feels perfect for what it is intended to… I mean, my two rotomolded kayaks (SOT and SI). Although at your hands the blade material is softer than the carbon reinf nylon version, once in the water it works great and the most noticeable difference is between the shape of the eagle ray (longer and thiner blades give a vibrant taste) and the 10cm longer shaft, but not the material.
I didn’t try it for a long period yet, but it doesn’t feels to much “muscle demanding” as expected but very similar to the eagle ray.
So, thank you all for your kind comments, see you. Regarding Posilok, it was worth to wait

2 Likes

¡Que la pasés bien! Good luck.

Gracias!!! :cowboy_hat_face:

Bueno!