Vinyl pads w/ buckles
Northwater also sells the vinyl pads with 1/2 of a fastex buckle attached separately from their under deck bag. Add a couple of pieces of web to clip between them with 1/2 buckles on the ends and you’re set.
Existing Deck Rigging?
If there is then just unbolt them from below and put on cable clips (name’s escaping me but the same little clamps that are usually used on the skeg/rudder cable tubes) to run your bungee through.
See you on the water,
Marshall
The River Connection, Inc.
Hyde Park, NY
www.the-river-connection.com
glassed in
On my valley boat, the inside end of the on-deck hardware for the bungee is not accessible, it is enclosed with epoxy or fiberglass.
Flashlight brackets.
I don’t remember where I saw them. Maybe Home Depot? They are stainless steel spring clips, designed for mounting D cell flashlights in various places. I remember thinking at the time, these would work for a stirrup pump. Ken…
Bilge pump clips
Pygmy sells actual bilge pump clips that you could bolt under the deck - about 1/3 of the way down the page here:
http://pygmyboats.com/mall/Safety.asp
Another option . . .
When I made the Pygmy Tern 14s, I attached stainless steel D-rings (1/2") in a number of places by epoxying a 1.5" rectangle of fiberglass over the swivel tab holding the D ring. The hole in the tab is not used for a bolt, but I think it helps strengthen the bond of the tab to the deck. You have to be careful not to let epoxy get into the area where the D-ring swivels in the tab. These tabs can then have bungee attached, net bags, etc.
As a precaution to avoid even the remote possibility of being trapped in your boat by the bungee, if overturned, it is advisable to use very lightweight bungee inside the cockpit: so light that a kick of your foot can break it.
Also, consider that the bolts running through the deck,for the pad eyes that connect the upper deck bungees, can be used on the underside to secure nylon tabs with loops. You may need to replace with longer bolts, but simply remove the nut underside, add the looped tab and replace the nut. If you do this on four sides underneath, you can knot bungee and pull it through the loops to secure your gear underneath. So, I have looped lightweight bungee under the deck, to which I attach the clips on an under-deck bag, or any other piece of gear that suits the mission.
Finally, you can mix up some epoxy mud, adding enough sawdust to the epoxy to make it the consistency of peanut butter and fasten pad eyes underneath (sand first) by filling the bolt holes with the mud.
All these options allow you to avoid drilling more holes in your deck.
Good luck.
how to install these?
Let’s say I use one of the D rings at the right side of page from here:
http://www.northwater.com/html/products/canoeing/Canoe%20subdirectory/Anchor-points-outfitting.html
If adhesive will not be strong enough, would I just use multiple coats of epoxy over the vinyl pads onto the fiberglass inner deck?
Great item
Thanks for posting that.
Epoxy use
First, sand the web straps with some coarse sandpaper to roughen it up. Sand the contact points on the kayak to remove any mold wax. Then you could use 15 minute epoxy on both surfaces and press together. If you have real construction epoxy that’s even better. You would mix some thickening agent with it first to make it into a peanut butter viscosity.
Foam blocks are easier…
…and work at least as well. You can see examples in my “Kayak Outfitting” album at:
http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg
There are three pages to the album, so be sure to check them all.
attached?
How is the foam attached-adhesive?
My thought on the bungee approach was lower profile within an LV cockpit.
one hand
You can get the pump in and out with one hand in a foam mount. Bungee takes two. (if that matters to you)
I think I remenber…
…that the folks at Kayak Academy out in Washington State outfit their boats with bungee cord under deck pump mounts by drilling four small holes in the deck. Anyone familar with this?
requires foam bulkhead
the foam mount per Brian’s photos does require the personalized foam bulkhead footrest installation and stock footrest removal. Something may be I’ll do at some point.
not necessarily
You can simply stick two pieces of foam under the deck to mount a pump like brian shows. No need for a full foamed bulkhead.
Adhesive for D rings
If you go the Northwater D ring on vinyl pad route, Marine Goop works fine for a composite boat. I’ve had a set like that glued into one of my boats for years. Unlike epoxy, if you ever change your mind for some reason, they’re removable without resorting to a grinder.
Safety?
– Last Updated: Apr-02-09 3:06 PM EST –
After looking over all the suggestions and options, I'm thinking that Brian's foam set-up might be a safer set-up for unplanned wet exits or re-entry and rolls (which I can only do with a paddle float thus far). After thinking about a bungee D ring set-up, the bungee will not be tight against the fiberglass as it is on the outside of the boat. There will be a gap as it hands down a bit, dependent on the D ring size. That gap might be concerning.
The hanging foam in Brian's set-up could probably easily break off if needed in an emergency.
FYI - I did not mention in my initial post that having 2 low volume boats means the pump can not be stowed between the seat and hull. I no longer want it bungeed on the outside.
Exactly
While I do use the block and bulkhead combination in my own boats, the majority that I’ve outfitted have used two block. They’re easily installed using contact cement.
Correct
– Last Updated: Apr-03-09 10:18 AM EST –
The absolute worst case scenario with the foam blocks is that you would kick one or both of them off in a panicked exit and have to find an alternative way to carry your pump for the rest of the trip. There is no way you can get hung up on them. Additionally, the pump is held high enough that it's actually difficult to hit it with your feet, especially since it's along the centerline of the deck.
BTW, depending on the design of the seat and the pump in question, storage between the cheek plate and hull may still be possible in a low volume boat. I do that on both my Pintail and Anas Acuta.
ease of access
using foam blocks is a very accessible method for just the pump but there’s a way of anchoring a mesh bag or flat sheet of plastic with bungies through four anchor attachments that also works. The problem with just using bungies is that the pump doesn’t naturally slide under the bungies but if you have a flat surface for the end of the pump to slide against you can slide the pump up and in securely.
the method for securing bungies is with a 4" piece of 1" webbing folded over and epoxied to the underside. You get to that area but turning the kayak over, mark four 1 1/2"x1 1/2" areas that are sanded/roughed up with 60grit. Apply epoxy to 1" section of overlapped webbing and onto underside of deck. Position loop of webbing over sanded area and weight with platic covered brick. If the deck is peaked all this stuff will slide to the middle so you’ll need a couple plastic tape covered bricks in the middle holding things in place. When cured up attach your back/plastic sheet to the webbing.