Just Purchased an Aluet
Paddle from T&J paddles and was able to sneak out on a local river (hardly ever ice free this early) and paddled hard for 2 hours and was very pleased with the speed and ease of this paddle. I also have a GP and love them both the Eruo is out of commission. Thanks for all the info
learn to make own paddles
The ideal Greenland/Aleutian paddle size for different sized individuals, with different strength levels, higher or lower stroke, paddling different width kayaks, in differing conditions is a process of trial and error. Sizing guidelines help, but what works best for you in your paddling takes time and considerable exploration to sort out. If you are a member of a large paddling club there is the possibility of trading paddles for a while on paddles for this exploration. Buying multiple paddles while on this road to discovery becomes expensive.
However, there is a solution-learn to make your own. It’s $20-$40 for suitable wood and about 4 hours of time. A somewhat experienced woodworker can follow directions on internet or in a good book such as Brian Nystrom’s excellent book, “Greenland Paddles Step by Step”. If you are still apprehensive about carving a paddle, take a paddle making class. You finish with both a paddle and the skills and confidence to make future paddles. Soon you will have made the ideal paddle for you. If the factors change (wider or narrower kayak, deteriorating shoulder, much different seat height or coaming height) just make another paddle ($20-$40 & 4 hours) adjusting the dimensions to what now works.
Dave
Euro accelerate faster ?
Here it goes - WW III
A Euro cannot accelerate faster than a GP unless the paddler is faster.
I’ve written this at least 5 times on other sites. I have raced with Euro paddlers and many GP users together. All seasoned paddlers with decent strength and endurance. We would line up and charge out to a spot a few hundred yards away. ALL the paddlers (Euro and GP) would be neck to neck for at least 50 years. Then the ones with more endurance would slowly pull ahead regardless of the paddle. I’ve done this many times with many paddlers with different paddles. The myth of a larger blade being faster at accelerating is by people who have no experience with a GP.
Lastly, if a GP could not accelerate as fast as a Euro, nobody would be using them. If you like a Euro and feel YOU can accelerate faster, that’s fine.
I think the "accelerate faster"
applies to the first few strokes. This is where one can apply much more power than over a longer distance. Like in a sprint start or a quick surge forward on a wave etc.
I use GP and Euro and wing, and the GP simply does not have the explosive and quick power transfer to the water as an Euro or a wing do. The lever action to accelerate as fast as the others is not there. I can overpower it to some extend too but mainly it takes more effort from me to apply that power because I have to work with the shorter lever.
After the first several strokes, when there is no more acceleration going on, e.g., the kayak is now up to speed and the paddler is in a steady state of paddling at a constant speed, I would agree that it would be more up to the paddler than to the paddle to determine speed.
Many times when I hear of comparisons
between euro and greenland paddles I wonder about the design and technique used of the greenland paddle. From my experience it makes a lot difference. A narrow greenland paddle can have its limitations when it comes to acceleration. For most of my paddling I use a narrow blade greenland paddle but if I’m going out to do some surfing I use a wider blade paddle that gives me better acceleration and bracing. The wider blade used with a wider grip gives me comparable acceleration to a euro paddle. A narrower blade used with a narrow grip just doesn’t have the bite I like.
Not
just skinny vs wide…there is more to the cut of the paddle than most people know. Most people seem to think that there is only ONE Greenland paddle and only one way to cut one…and THEY have it.
Many nuances to paddles both Greenland and euro:) (and wing)
not all are created equal in all things…then there is technique too
Best Wishes
Roy
I am going to try this one next
I saw these plans on http://yostwerks.com/GPIntro.html that shows both a regular greenland and a modified half aleut half greenland. I would like to try the modified next paddle i make
For the record
I strongly suggest you make a “modified” Aleut paddle with the traditional center rib on the power side. From the research, the rib has a serious function in preventing the flutter that a GP is subject to if not canted in the stroke. AP’s don’t need to be canted at all. The design is easily enough done WITH the rib.
Aleut with rib on power face
I agree with bartc on having the ridge on the power face. I know some feel the paddle works best when held with the ridge in back but this makes no sense to me. Using Aleut paddle "backwards" places it in a position that promotes flutter (hands somewhat ahead of blade). Holding the paddle in what is usually considered the "correct" position (ridge on power face) places the hands somewhat behind the blade. This reduces the possibility of flutter. I've used an Aleut paddle in the "correct" position for eight years and don't experience flutter. I have never made or even used an Aleut with the double center ridge so I have no opinions on that style Aleut paddle.
If an Aleut paddle is made with a full length center section (I used Sitka Spruce) and then blades glued on to the sides after, it can be easy to make. A woodworked who has experience with routers can form the ridge on the tapered center section. My friend, who is a cabinet maker, made four center sections for me one time in about 15 minutes. I then glued on the blades and finished carving the paddle with a block plane and spokeshave. I do very little sanding as I'm allergic to cedar dust.
As well as being easier, this laminated blank method method allows the paddle maker to align the grain for best strength: Vertical grain in the core and flat grain in the blade.
I've made the blades from WRC, Yellow Cedar and Redwood. A Sitka core gives strength and flexibility to the paddle. The Yellow Cedar blades looks best to me, while WRC blades gives an attractive contrast to the paddle. I have some doubts about the suitability of Redwood for blades-possibly brittle-but I had some scrap on hand so I tried it on one. Sure does look nice!
I've also carved Aleut out of solid WRC and while its slightly harder to form the rib, this approach also works-just takes longer. I used a small scorp to carve the center ridge. A solid WRC Aleut will be lighter and weaker than a laminated paddle with a sitka core but probably still strong enough for most use.
Dave
I laminated WRC
Two 5/8" thick boards to one another, with the top one half size in the middle. Then carved out the whole thing with a surform tool (flat and curved). Light as a feather, but strong and sturdy, and very efficient. Center rib on power side, naturally.
Am working on a fancier version along the lines of your laminate scheme. But so far am running into obstacles due to my lack of the right tools/jigs, etc. Hoping it comes out half as well as my first one. This one uses WRC for center rib, Sitka spruce for sides and blades, and tips of walnut.
laminated Aleut paddle
bartc,
Your laminated paddle sounds quite interesting and sure will look good when finished. Please send me a pic when done.
I chose sitka for the core because that is what I was taught at the Skinboat School. Sitka is strong while still having good flexibility and shock absorbing characteristics. Also, while heavier than WRC it’s not not too heavy. That being said, when I made two Aleut paddles following the plans on Renzo Beltrane’s website (Italy) I used mostly WRC. There is a Sitka scrap glued on top to reach the full thickness of the shaft. They are very light and haven’t broken yet.
Dave
Same site I followed. nt
Renzo Beltrane Aleut paddle
Yeah, made 2, really like them and now mostly use the Beltrane style Aleut paddle. With a smaller blade area and the narrower loom I chose for these paddles, they are less stressful on my rebuilt shoulder.
I even made one Beltrane Aleut into a two piece with a carbon ferrule. One half of the paddle becomes a temporary tool to facilitate pushing air bags into my kayaks before launching. By connecting the ferrule halves, it then becomes a full length paddle before I climb into the kayak.
However, don't be too impressed, I had help in this paddle making venture. A lady paddling friend gave me an English translated version of Beltrane's Aleut plans. My friend the cabinet maker scanned Beltrane's cross sections into his computer, sent them to his shop-bot, and made plywood templates of the paddle shape. I cut each template in half (horizontally) with a very fine jewelers saw. While carving the paddle I then had extremely accurate upper and lower templates for each cross section on the plans. It's good to have friends!
Dave
You cheated! LOL
I did my own Italian to English translation and did the rest by hand. I did have one cut done on a friend’s bandsaw, so I’ll admit to some assistance. But CNC machining, well, that’s way beyond my scope of work…
LOL
I’m a confessed "cheater"
Lovely Gina gave me a copy of the translated plans. Should I have refused them just to be a purest-not in this lifetime.
Mike, when viewing the plans said I can scan the station templates and cut them out for you on the Shop Bot-a done deal.
I did bandsaw out the rough paddle shape and carve the paddles to the the templates. Carved the sides of the ridge with a really nice scorp I bought from Cory at the Skinboat School-love using that tool.
Helped my neighbor make one Beltrane paddle and I made two. I supplied the wood, plans, tools and instruction and he supplied a heated shop last March. A good deal for both of us.
Dave
And where was I?
Would have liked to have been there. Was carving my own at the same time! What a coincidence.
In fact, I didn’t even have my kayak delivered, yet was eagerly researching and then building my paddle. I figured that the proverbial creek was not where I wanted to be without one.
Very very glad I settled on that design. It’s a source of amazement on the water to others and a source of good paddling and pride for me. Those Aleuts knew what they were doing for sure.
Off line
bartc,
I live in Ct, so if you’re nearby we could do some paddle making together.
We have throughly skewed the Aleut vs. Greenland topic to being just about Aleuts, so we should probably continue off-line.
I’m pleased with all aspects of the Beltrane Aleut paddles except for my attempts at tip protection. I tried coating them using G-Flex with silica added. It dries to a nice ivory color. I like the product and think it will hold up better than the MAS I’ve been using for many years. My problems have been with the application process. I tried a waxed template to keep the epoxy in in place while curing. When I tried to remove the template in the “green Stage” the epoxy clung to the template, distorting the tip coating. I next tried removing the template earlier in the “green Stage” and the epoxy sagged. On the next paddle (there will be a next) I’m going to try the “tried and true” method of frequently rotation the paddle while the epoxy is curing to have gravity help keep it in place. If that doesn’t work to my satisfaction, I will try brushing on a number of very light coats. I try to always have a back up plan!
Email me off line and I’ll try to send you some pics of the Beltrane Aleut with a carbon ferrule as well as its sister.
Dave
Does anyone still have plans?
Does anyone still have a copy of the beltrane plans? I don’t know if what i am searching for is correct, but there seem to be alot of older websites that no longer exist that had info on aleut paddles, but i would still like to try one.
If someone still has a set kicking around and could email them to me i would really appreciate it.
Ditto on a set of plans
I would love a set of plans also. I am just finishing the rigging on a s&g kayak I made, and paddles are my next step. I have plans for a GP but not an Alute.