boiled linseed oil + turpentine + ???

Also notice that your recipe is the same as what I posted above.

just hang-em
The important thing is that they are not balled up. If they’re balled up, the decomposition of the oil gives off heat, and in a tight wad all that heat can accumulate to the point that it ignites the fumes. But if the rag is hung or laid out flat, any heat generated will just disipate harmlessly.

I hang rags from the side of the can, then the next morning they’re stiff and dry, and you can just chuck 'em in the trash.

The other alternative is to get a metal trashcan with a tight-fitting metal lid, and toss them all in there. Without oxygen they can’t ignite.

thank you…
I was a little surprised at how many formulas are out there. I just couldn’t remember which one was “mine.” :slight_smile:

linseed oil
Just don’t use the mixture on your kayak, specially inside where access is difficult. Linseed oil tends to mold and up in the ends of the yak is impossible to remove.

Bill H.

Use a soft cloth
to apply it and then let it dry a bit before gently rubbing it in.

If the wood surface has been weatherbeaten or real dry the next day give it another coat.

I have never had trouble with it becoming sticky.



I just get it over with and burn 'em
as soon as I’m done with them. I toss them into a Weber chimney charcoal starter in the driveway and light them.

Pine Tar???
The traditional mix for old time wooden boatbuilders was linseed oil, turpentine and pine tar. It has a wonderful smell and does a great job.

Your dad may not remember the name, but he might remember the smell. I have read claims that smells awaken more memories than other senses, and it is certainly true for me.

boatbuilders mix with pine tar
The mix with pine tar was used inside workboats. It works very well to preserve the wood. It also turns the inside of the boat brown/black over time.

Another boatbuilders mix that looks better on recreational boats is oil, terp and oil based spar varnish. Considerations with the oil part of the mix are that boiled linseed is cheaper and tung oil darkens less over time, but is much more costly. The percentages of each ingredient vary with every user. A mix that was used on a fine lapstrake skiff I have was 60% boiled linseed, 40% terp and 10% varnish.


The varnish that gives you 110%! :wink:

I use it too
Carl’s Paddlin in Madison WI used to sell it but I think they had to stop - not sure why.

Yep - it’s 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 distilled white vinegar, and 1/3 mineral spirits. Works great and it’s about all I’ve used on my boats for 15 years.

Carl’s called it Gunnel Lotion.

linseed oil +turpentine + beeswax ??

Check this site

boiled linseed oil + turpentine + ???
How about: “Mary Roalman finish … consists of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and natural varnish.”

response to question
I have used the combination of equal parts turpentine, linseed oil and mineral spirits to rejuvenate wooden rockers and my kitchen cabinets. It works great! It was dry in a few days and really brings out the wood grain. Good Luck!