yeah I realize that is super vague. However I guess I don’t have a price range in mind. I am sure if I see some and think they are more then I want to spend I will just not get it. I guess what I don’t want to do is say $125 for the paddles but to eliminate a paddle that was $150 but would have been a lot better for me. also don’t want to say $125 if it really isn’t an upgrade from what mine came with. heck maybe my paddle is good enough for now and even my life jacket that isn’t made for paddling will work just fine. I am betting though I will find it uncomfortable and just not wear it. not really what I was going for though. I will post what paddle I have later today, maybe it is a god one, but i doubt it. I also know my skill is a beginner so how much difference will a good paddle even make, if my technique is crap. 
I have acquired a lot of paddles used over the last 4 years because of buying and re-selling kayaks. What I have learned is that there is a notable difference in paddles and at the lowest end some paddles are very poor. On a scale of 1-10 the differences in user friendliness from the 7s to the 10s is not as great as pricing may indicate. You spend 2.5 times as much money to go from a 7 to as 10 as you do on a paddle that rates a solid 7. And unless you are paddling at some level that demands the best performance you can get, many people would not even know there was a difference of an “8” and a “10”
Now paddles that I’d rate as 2s and 4s…yeah there is a huge difference from them in usefulness from them to those I’d rate as 7s and the cost increase is now well to your advantage. Going from a 3 to a 7 will cost you about $50-$75 more. That’s all, and one day of 8-12 hours using a “3” will make you wan to THROW that $75 at a better paddle.
Oh -------- here’s a link you may like to look over.
Aquabound paddles are good to start with. The ones with a fiberglass shaft and plastic blades are good.
The next question is length.
Astral makes good PFD. I use their V8.
You can also get a good one from Cabelas/Bass Pro.
that is exactly what I was expecting, and hoping for. I do not need the best most expensive paddles, but a good “7” would be nice. and really if that means it cost $60, or $200, I am not concerned as I am sure I will use it a lot. that being said if a good one that will work is closer to $60, i would be happy paying less. I was expecting to be in the $125-$150 range, but also hoping to be under $100 
oh I thought of another question I had. I currently have some malone fold down J racks on the roof of my yukon. In my opinion the over hang front and back was bad enough with a 10ft kayak on the roof. do i need to do anything to support the kayak more? just seems like only having cross bars 3 ft apart supporting a 14’ kayak is not the best for the kayak.
You may find a good paddle for $100 used, but it’s fairly rare to get exactly what you want on the used market and as big as you are I for one would recommend a longer length then most people use, so that also cuts down on the opportunities in the used market. I’d think a minimum length of 240 CM. (just my guess)
Here is a new one to consider. I’d use Craigslist and such sources and see if you can find one like it, but if not you can always buy a new one later.
and this one has the smaller blade, made for low angle strokes and longer days on the water.
These are by no means a “last word” but just examples of paddles that you’d probably never regret buying.
I have hauled 15’ to 18’ kayaks thousands of highway miles for years on the roof of my little Mazda CX5 with a Thule flat bar rack with the bars about 36" apart. It won’t hurt the boats (though don’t leave them sitting on the rack in hot sun because the plastic can soften and cause “oil canning” dents in the hull – one reason I haul my kayaks upside down, decks are less likely to warp and it also keeps the boat from filling with water if you drive through the rain.) I do ALWAYS tied off the bow and stern to the front and rear of the car using strong braided rope or 1" straps (like the cam straps I use to lash the boats to the rack.). I have hood loops to tie at the front (they are nylon straps that you slam under the car hood) and in the back I fasten to my trailer hitch.
You might want to check your local Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for a used paddle. I’ve picked up used Werner and Aquabound fiberglass and even carbon fiber paddles for under $50 over the years.
In fact, I have a used Werner Skagit 240cm fiberglass shaft paddle that came with a used kayak I bought 6 weeks ago but I don’t need it (too long for 5’ 5" me). If you were nearby I’d sell it to you for $30. It’s got scratches from use but is completely functional and a good blade design for a low angle beginner. A new Skagit is $170.
Awesome thanks again! I will follow with what i get. btw are the paddles I have now garbage? not much online about them but one place said they were fiberglass reinforced.
A USCG approved PFD (lifejacket), usually a Type III, and a sound producing device (whistle) are required for coastal waters and in inland waters in pretty much all states for all vessels. This includes kayaks, canoes, and SUPs. Following USCG requirements a PFD must be readily available, if not necessarily worn. Some states or localities require that they be worn. The fines for non-compliance can be hefty.
Be aware that it is extremely difficult to put on a PFD once in the water while holding on to your boat, paddle, and any other loose gear. Some people find it difficult to get back into their boat without the additional floatation that a PDF provides. In 2023 according to the USCG 83% of kayaker deaths by drowning were people not wearing a PFD.
There are a million excuses for not wearing a PFD and no one expects to capsize, but it happens all the time.
Looking at your photo of the paddle, that’s a very old and pretty clunky wide blade and probably very tiring to use. Even the newer Estuary paddle has a narrower and more tapered offset shape. More efficient paddles have that uneven blade shape (like the photos that other posters have sent in the paddle suggestion links). I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how much easier paddling is once you get a better blade than that one.
The paddles you have are fine to get you on the water if they are approximately the right size. However a lighter paddle will make kayaking much easier, more efficient, and more fun. After a while if you decide that you want to stick with kayaking, choose the lightest most comfortable paddle that you can comfortably afford. You can keep the old one for a spare or a loaner.
Thanks for the links to the paddles. I know this wasn’t a linked one, but are they better then what I have or even work considering? Btw one reason I even bring these up is the adjustable length. Since I don’t know what I need I thought they might help me find what works best.
I ask because they are free shipping for me, and on sale from prime days on Amazon. The eBay ones looked good, they were just $30+ for shipping. I did also find a pair of aquabound graphite with storage bag on FB, but about 3 hour drive, and 230cm so I figured they were too short. $80 though.
I started with one of those. Heavy but looked good for digging holes or splitting firewood.
I paddled with it once and returned it.
Don’t forget shoveling snow. I’d be great for that too.
The one I have now, or the one I linked from Amazon? Btw there was a discrepancy in the one on Amazon. One place it said 240-260cm, which is what I wanted, but another place on the size it said 230-250cm
I may be wrong, but you don’t need a 240 or longer. My go to in just about any boat is 220 to 230. I started with the 240. To be fair, I have wide shoulders and long arms. One of my nicknames was Cheetah.
I’d encourage Thrawn5499 to talk over length with others who have more experience then I do. My guess of 250 is based on the fact he’s very tall and has long arms but also is a former gym-bug and is strong enough to use the longer paddle with out fatigue (my best guess anyway)
But there are men on this forum who have a LOT more time in kayaks then I do and probably have a lot of good advice that he may find useful.
I am short but fairly muscular and I use 8 foot and 9 foot long GL and Aleut paddles but I don’t tire in using them, but I have 2 friends who are my height but much smaller in the upper body and the do favor shorter paddles, so my guess is just that…a guess.
never heard of that Wonitago company or its paddles. though the blade shape and size looks okay, that ribbed shaft and what looks like a weak area where they have those fidgety feathering adjustments at the blade and it being adjustable length and “three-piece” makes me suspect it would be easy to break and not very rigid. A paddle that cheap is typically either too heavy or not durable. Might be something I would carry as a deck spare, but not one I would rely on as a primary.
As for PFDs, I have owned a dozen or so of various brands and models and found that Astrals suit me best, If you are going to insist on a high back seat, their V8 model with the mesh lower back would likely be your best bet. Also a very cool well-ventilated design and my fave for hot weather. Astral often has good clearance prices as they tend to change model colors and slightly tweak the styles every year. Most are over $100 but sometimes they go on sale for under that, especially the XL and extra small sizes. But PFDs are like hiking boots, fit is very personal to individual body metrics and comfort. So finding an outfitter where you can try on a range of brands and styles is the best option.
thanks M8. I think I will steer clear of that paddle for the time being. I guess I will have to find some local stores to go try on the PFDs