Building an outdoor boat rack

A very simple, A-frame rack
Check it out my Kayak Storage Rack album on Webshots:



http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg

Is wind loading or security a big issue?
Digging holes and pouring concrete strikes me as over the top (and unnecessarily hard work) for a sheltered and secure site.



I’ve seen one good system with posts to the outside. Crude mortice and tenon joints (which don’t have to be cabinetmaker-standard to be effective) should hold everything square - just schoolboy carpentry really :slight_smile:

Here’s mine
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/1405316064040906646FHkMRk

car top foam blocks on the 2x4 racks
are a nice way to distribute the weight evenly over a wider surface and eliminate any scratching.

Friends, Family and Nieghbors Laughing
I started a rack in fall and left it unfinished all winter, and everyone is laughing at the eyesore.





Its 8 4X4 in the ground. I used4 10’ on the middle with 8 footers on the ends.



Its going to make a shed 8’X24’ which is kind of large, but I have a 6,000 SqFt back yard


Brian’s rack
A local kayaker did a nice interpretation of Brian’s rack. He used metal conduit for crossbars threaded through some PVC pipe for rollers. Easier to slide the kayaks on and off the crossbars solo. (I think I’m explaining correctly what he did.) Anyway, it’s elegant and I want to make one just like it.

G in NC

Kayak Condo
Could you mount one of these to the outside of the barn?



http://talic.com/cat25.php



jim

Simple Rack
Here’s what I came up with:



http://picasaweb.google.com/douglas.doremus/SadieCanoeMoon#



Not a great pic but it gives you an idea. Very simple and cheap to make. I used rough cut 2 x 4’s with some left over bolts and nuts to put it together. The stands are screwed on to some leftover pressure treated planks. I drilled holes in those and pounded 2’ rebar through the holes to keep it in place. Works great and has held canoes as well as, gasp!, a kayak for 4 years now.



If I need to move it I just take out the rebar and jockey it to a new place.



Good luck.



dougd

mine are set on outlook carrier arms …

– Last Updated: Feb-01-10 9:56 PM EST –

...... made out of 1 x 4 on edge capped with another 1 x 4 flat wise (looks like a T), attached right onto the barracade fence post (which are 4 x 4 already at 8' spread).

The outlooks have a triangle inside corner brace between post and outlook carriers (under carriers). Having the fence (or maybe your barn) on one side is good start to a better enclosure if you want more protection .

Thanks, Brian
I looked at your pictures and appreciated your comments underneath each of the photos explaining the various aspects of building it.

Extremely simple rack . . .
I got four steel heavy farm/garden fence posts - sold at Lowes - and some light chain and pipe insulation.



Drove the four posts into the ground in a rectangle pattern to fit the kayak. Hooked chain in the tabs, between the metal posts, front and back, at the same height above the ground. Bent the tabs over the chain to hold it in place and left enough chain to wrap around each end of the boat, front and back. Covered the 2 chains, front and back with pipe insulation to rest the kayak on them, on its side.



Covered the posts with larger diameter pipe insulation. Wrapped remaining chain around each boat end and secured with padlock. Covered kayak with tarp. A second kayak rests underneath, on the ground, covered by the tarp.



It’s quick and easy. You can built more of them for other boats. Low profile; less stress lifting and less worry about winds. Critter risks are somewhat higher than way off the ground.

storage
Btw, if you’re using regular 2x4’s for cross braces the foam roof top supports for kayaks will fit nicely onto the 2x4’s and support the boats better than sitting directly on a piece of wood.



I’d also look at some sort of roof to minimize the UV damage to the boats.



We built several racks at the local park for boat storage, regular treated lumber holds up much better outside than untreated.



Bill H.

I second Brian’s Design
I used it; works great! We’re storing an 18 ft. Cetus, 16 ft. Nova Craft, and 15 ft. Wenonah.

You got it.
I think I used 1.5" PVC over 1.25" conduit and it works like a charm for two boats. It might be a little trickier to adapt the rack for more boats using this setup, but I think it could be done.



Thanks to Brian for posting the photos.

Pairs of 4x4s in the ground with 1/2"
galv pipe stuck into them on both sides working great for me, and my friendly local outfitter’s rentals. Put 4xs in deep maybe with a bit of post set crete. Drill 7/8" holes on a slight down angle almost all the way through, spaced in height to the depth of your boats. Stick in 24"-30" pipes and cover them with swim noodles. Each pair of 4x4s carries 8 poly boats. Easy to adjust pipe heights by drilling other holes. Can drape a tarp over the whole works. I stick the same pipes into holes drilled into the edge of 2x4s under my deck and into studs in the shed. R

That’s a cool idea
I’ll keep it in mind for my next rack.

That reminds me
Although I didn’t need any more capacity, the A-frame design will accommodate longer cross bars if you need to carry additional boats outside the frame, similar to what Doug did here.

Wind can be an issue
My rack is pretty sheltered, but it would still get moved around if I didn’t stake it down. All it takes is 5/8" holes in the uprights and some 2’ rebar stakes and it’s very solid. I also tie the ends of the cover down, but that’s mainly to keep them from flapping.

I like it very much, too.
Mostly for it’s economy of labor and materials, simple functionality and easy portability, disposibility or re-use. In this case, less is more.

Overkill??
but keeps 'em covered.



http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=818794&id=1541869644