I've paddled the Adirondack 90-miler race in all sorts of canoe craft, from C1 to voyageur. In 18 years of paddling the 90 I've gone back and forth with or without wheels. The problem is, according to the rules, if you use wheels on any one day, you must carry them on all three days of the race. The carries are wheel friendly on day one, but not at all on day two, and wheels are really not needed on day three. Carry miles total about five miles during the 3-day staged race.
For the previous two years I have paddled the 90 in a C4 and done the portages by carrying the canoe overhead, with two paddlers bearing the load just as they would carry a C2. In the bow I attach short lengths of tubular foam "noodles" to rest on shoulders. In the stern I use a clamp-in yoke on shoulders. The noodles do not work n the stern because the seat is in the way of your head at the gunwale width where the noodles would fit on shoulders. Mostly just two of us carry the canoe on each carry, but the other two of the crew can switch out on the run if needed for break.
I've done the same carries the same way with a lightweight C6 voyageur canoe, a single person in the bow with the padded deck on one shoulder, and two more people shouldering on the gunwales a few feet from the stern. Three others carry paddles and extra gear.
On the other hand, when we paddle the Cannonball-90, (the unofficial and unsupported all in one day 90 mile route), the carry mileage expands to ten miles. Done that six times so far. We do use wheels in almost all cases on that continuously moving very long day.
Pushing vs. Pulling I’ve got a lot of experience now guiding canoes through all sorts of portages and carries, and as I’ve gained experience I find myself pushing from the rear at least 90% of the time. Why? Let me count the reasons (there aren’t that many, so don’t panic)
Pulling the canoe is usually the best way to get over a tough obstacle, sometimes a small log, but usually rocks, ditches, soft sand, roots, etc. BUT, I find that the best way to get over obstacles is to avoid them in the first place, and I am best able to do that by guiding the boat from the rear, and steering it around obstacles, as opposed to guiding from the front and then constantly looking back to adjust the orientation of the wheels if necessary (and it is often necessary). If necessary, it is simple to go to the front of the canoe, get over an obstacle, and then carry on from the rear.
I find it easier to push a canoe up a hill than to pull it. It is easier on my back, and I seem to get more leverage. Especially if I am also dodging obstacles.
it is also easier to slow and guide a canoe down a hill from the rear.
During horsefly and deerfly season, I have found that when they are attracted by movement, they go to the head of whatever is moving. Most of the time, I can push the canoe along from the rear while watching a holding pattern of flies at the bow of my canoe looking for something to bite, seemingly unaware of the tasty treat 16 feet to their rear.
Finally, while maneuvering in tight corners, it is easier to control my end of the canoe while simultaneously guiding the other end if I can keep that other end in my sight without having to turn around.
Your mileage may vary, but I honestly shake my head when I see companions pulling their load when it would be easier pushing.
canoe portage carts In really rough county here in Wyoming some hunters use what is called a “meat cart” - basically a hard-bottomed stretcher with a single heavy duty wheel with a cable-operated disc brake centered underneath. you can put all four quarters of a bull elk on one of these so they are tough, tough.
These meat carts are unbelievably expensive, but a cheaper substitute could be built around a single 29" disc-braked off-road touring bicycle wheel on a square base and some STRONG sectional aluminum poles (or even H-Beams) with a brake lever on one or both ends. The canoe sits upright with the base centered over the load.
Years ago I made a one-wheeled cart (20" wheel, no brake) controlled by two guys with an aluminum crossbar at the back, but couldn’t get it through the timber. The “meat cart” design works better in tight quarters. Give me your e-mail and I’ll send a photo of my seldom-used one-wheeler as a start.