as an outside sales guy for a door &
trim shop, I seem to have a knack for showing up after the job is done. Hmmm…hey a… nice job guys. Anyone for a mocha?
Richard - a lot of good advice. I plan
to prime and paint the door after the hardware is fitted and removed. I hate paint on hardware.I am a little concerned about the weight bearing side because I have no idea how thick the door facing is. I’m using 3 - 3.5" hinges.
What side would Jesus cut?
I mean, him being a carpenter and all…
Use different screws on the jamb side
– Last Updated: Apr-04-08 6:48 PM EST –
Purchase 2-2.5" screws at the hardware store. I always replace the jamb screws. If the holes do not match the new hinges they can be plugged and glued with a piece from a cedar shim.
I don't know how old you house is but some old 3.5" hinges had 4 screws. The new ones have 3.
The door jamb is probably 3/4" (older homes used 1 1/4" called 5/4 for interion and exterior jambs). The hinge side shouldn't have shims between it and the 2 2x4s that are behind it. All doors have 2 2x4s (double studs) on either side of every door in the house. The latch / strike or knob side is the one that is shimmed and why dead bolts have 3.5 - 4" steel screws with them.
That’s a major job
Door Cut
– Last Updated: Apr-05-08 11:01 AM EST –
Next time try a fence guide in your circular saw ....... and always have an excellent sharp blade , new if nessasary ........ was good advise about asking if latchset bores where pre-bored (can't cut strike side of door if so , because setback of latch center line is altered , a no no) ...... by the way , door hing screws are #9 and that's about all #9's are used for ....... you can put one longer screw (course thread) in each hing (closest to jamb stop) for minor adjustments to draw door away from strike side jamb if a bit to tight (this longer screw will go into stud framing behind jamb)....... you can pitch or throw (tilt) a hing by adding solid cardboard (thin type) under 1/2 the hing on door or jamb (the 1/2 I'm talking about is the length 1/2, a 3-1/2" hing will take a 3-1/2" x 1/2" shim for example),(depending were you put the cardboard shim deteremines which way the door will throw (tighter or looser fit in jamb) ........ if you end up with a hing binding (back of hing leafs hit before door closes), you will need to pitch the hing to fix that .......... prime (underbody coat) 1st, then finish coats ( with hardware off door if possible , if hing leaf must remain on door , tape it off ) ........ DO WAIT till paint is completely dry (24+ to 48 hrs.) before closing door, because it will stick to jamb weather strip if you don't !! ........ prime and paint bottom and top of ext. door if possible ...
Buy yourself a good hand plane
Something in the #3 - #5 size range. While you might not want to use it to take off the bulk of the stock, it’s the perfect tool for truing up uneven edges left by power tools. Sometimes the best tool for a job doesn’t have an electrical cord attached to it.