Comfort zone vs. danger? long-ish

Yes, exactly!
That’s what was occurring. I was launching from a floating dock that was perpendicular to the wave vector. and it was also near the shore. Couldn’t get off the dock because of that kind of action - or at least did not feel I could launch safely. Simply holding onto the cleat I felt pitched about 40 degrees or more upward with each wave crest and with real force!