Makes sense. From what I can glean from other sources, ABS and acrylic (the two layers of “Carbonlite”) are 10%-15% heavier than the same volume of polyethylene. To make lighter boats, Eddyline must be able to get satisfactory stiffness and strength with thinner hulls that use less material vs an RM poly boat of similar dimensions.
Interesting observation about the weight of the two materials. I didn’t know that. I think satisfactory stiffness and strength are in the eye of the user.
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No question about it.
I just replaced a combing hung seat with a foam seat in a P & H Bahiya. The rear of the seat hung from the coming, the front rested on “feet” on the hull. Lay backs were enhanced by the seat tipping up (bringing the front “feet” off the hull…which was kind of cool. But it seemed overly twitchy in the waves, more so than my V9 surfski. Putting in a foam seat greatly enhanced stability. My sit bones are now within 1/2" of the hull and the foam seat extends further forward, rising somewhat under my thighs to provide support. The coming hung seat kept my butt at least 1 1/2" off the hull, plus the coming mount transferred my weight higher yet, to the combing (not sure about the physics of that). Unless you have a very rigid butt ;-), I doubt your hull is much more prone to damage from hitting things.
I sort of suspect it is. There’s a difference between 200 lbs sitting on the bottom of the kayak and a 1.5" space under the seat. Your weight on the bottom provides a more solid surface for something like a sharp rock edge to rub against. I don’t have proof of this, just my one-time experience with a crack. I just recommend being careful, that’s all. I currently have my seat on a foam pad on the bottom. Much more comfortable than the original seat placement.
I see your point and think it’s valid. But I was thinking more in terms of comparing my soft bottom on a foam seat to the rigid bulkheads in many boats. My Bahiya included
I just did this operation today on a new kayak. I took some extra precautions this time. I sanded all edges of the bottom of the seat carefully and then covered all the edges with duct tape (which may not last long, I know). I then placed two sheets of thin plastic (those cutting mats you get at the dollar store; I’m sure there are better materials) under the main contact edges of the plastic seat. I covered that with several strips of 4" white waterproof Gorilla tape.
Finally I cut a piece of 1/4" closed-cell foam (simple Walmart camping pad, $15) to size and placed the seat on that. I cut the foam so it goes up the sides of the kayak. The seat is wedged in solidly but it moves when I want it to, e.g., to change my position. In my experience that pad needs to be renewed occasionally. There may be better materials than what I used, but hopefully this will last a while.
QUESTION: I need to fill four small screw holes in the side of the hull left after removing the set from its hanger. What waterproof white material can I use for that? I don’t happen to have any waterproof caulk at home.
Perhaps 4 white plugs from the parts drawers at your local hardware store sealed with a dab of white kitchen/bath acrylic-latex caulk?
The screw holes are very small, like 1/8" or 3/16". I want to paddle tomorrow and I don’t have any waterproof caulk.
That sounds like you’re asking for trouble in the event of wet exiting the boat in rough water. If the seat isn’t securely attached, it’s likely to come out.
As for the holes in the hull, whatever you do, don’t use anything that contains silicone. Since they’re small, you can just fill them with gelcoat. You can find repair gelcoat it in small tubes at marine suppliers. If you’re worried about strength, you can add a layer or two of fiberglass on the inside of the holes, but that gets more involved.
As for a paddler’s weight affect hull damage, weight on the hull will make abrasion more likely, but should reduce the likelihood of cracking or puncturing, as the hull is supported from the inside. The issue with bulkheads is that the hull can flex on either side of them, but is very rigid in the very thin area where the bulkhead is bonded to the hull. That’s way different than someone’s butt resting on the hull.
The seat is very difficult to remove by hand since it’s wider than the coaming. It takes quite a bit of force to bend it for removal. Also, re the holes, I should have said that this is a thermoformed kayak.
close holes with devcon and you can color it white. i posted links here or search YouTube for a few videos.
Even combing hung seats generally have some foam between bottom of the seat and the hull from what I have seen. The real issue is someone’s judgement in the choice and thickness of the material under the seat. Its possible to put material there that “looks good” but compresses so easily that most of the weight is still hanging off the combing.
Putting in a solid seat removes this failure mode.
Not much bad luck on the Hudson river if deep scratch and gauges count as hull damage.
Hey guys, it’s coaming.
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I know, but I love seeing all the creative spellings. Coming, combing, comeing . . .
co-
ming
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