Do most GP looms have an oval or rounded shaft ? In my consideration of different paddles I realised how heavily I rely on my bent shaft paddles for indexing, and that for the last several years I have been feathering my paddles.
How difficult has it been for others unlearning muscle memory?
What I thought was a simple solution for spare paddle storage; has become not such a simple process.
For a carved paddle, oval seems to be standard. When using a shouldered paddle with the loom sized to you, you will have you hands at the end of the look & around the base of the blade. This gives a natural index. Personally, I found the unfeathered GP a natural fit and better for me than a feathered Euro.
<<What I thought was a simple solution for spare paddle storage; has become not such a simple process.>> We may be helping you overthink this, especially if it is for a spare.
I have purchased three Werner Arctic Wind paddles since 1989, all were 8 ft (244 cm) long or longer and requiring me to cut them down to 230 cm - but I kept them feathered since all my other paddles were feathered. The last one I purchased was graphite - very light. Used them as my touring paddle in my Nordkapp until a couple years ago when I replaced it with a non-feathered GearLab Akiak. I still use both and don’t have any problems switching back and forth from unfeathered to feathered. Werner stopped making the Arctic Wind long ago but I found it to be a nice feathered paddle.
@trvlrerik said:
Do most GP looms have an oval or rounded shaft ? In my consideration of different paddles I realised how heavily I rely on my bent shaft paddles for indexing, and that for the last several years I have been feathering my paddles.
How difficult has it been for others unlearning muscle memory?
I switch without much thought between:
The first few strokes after adding or removing feather to the euro paddle will feel strange, but after that, it feels natural.
I do not feel the bent shaft or feathering to be missing when I switch to the GP - in this case, the necessary switch in technique takes more attention than the switch between paddle shafts.
I also sometimes use a straight shaft euro paddle. That is to me a larger difference than the difference between the above mentioned paddles. I can’t really get used to that, even though it is a really nice paddle.
I sold my bent shaft Euro and like a straight shaft.
Whatever paddles your boat.
Side bar here on GP’s: paddling instructor Paulo Oullet has good videos on form. This one is just a preview of one of his courses for sale, but I’m posting the link because it has some nice clear clips of paddling techniques with a GP (he’s using a carbon Gearlab Akiak like mine.)
@trvlrerik said:
Do most GP looms have an oval or rounded shaft ? In my consideration of different paddles I realised how heavily I rely on my bent shaft paddles for indexing, and that for the last several years I have been feathering my paddles.
For me… it’s not the loom of the GP that does the indexing. It’s the shoulder.
if you do any one handed rolls {Angel roll} or one handed sculling, then your hand is in the center of the loom and the indexing is done with the loom. If you never do these maneuvers or never wish to , then the indexing is either done using the shoulder or the blade.
Having a round loom would limit the paddle’s use and rule out some maneuvers.or make them more difficult. {the maneuvers can still be done, but it adds a challenge that isn’t necessary.}
If a person ever does harpoon practice, the paddle is used as a balance and held in front by the center of the loom. Any capsize in this position is followed by an Angel roll. Also when doing a Balance Brace, and to be able to index and skull if necessary with one hand. When doing a bow rudder, dropping the non working blade into the armpit on the working blade side. It’s a nicety to also have a loom that allows indexing and control. I would never consider a Greenland paddle with a round loom for my use and would never recommend one for others either.
I also prefer a little more rectangular shape for the loom instead of oval because of the added control for maneuvers such as I stated. Especially since you only hold the loom for these more technical maneuvers
The shoulder is also a place I shape depending on the intended use for a particular paddle… For extreme technical use I like a diamond shape for the shoulder, but find that for distance the diamond shape can create hot spots, so on a distance paddle much prefer a more rounded shoulder where the palm of the hand rests with the last two fingers in contact with an edge for indexing. .{YMMV}
@roym
Good to know. You inspired me to go look closely at my GPs. One has a round loom and all the rest are more rectangular; indexed.
There are a lot of great reasons for using a GP. Fitting better as a spare on the deck is not one of them. I think you should explore the other benefits and you will find that having a two piece paddle is not a high priority. There is a learning curve with a GP, you will not be happy using one with your current stroke believe me. It could take a whole season to learn to effectively use a GP. One of the great advantages of a wood GP is that it is made to fit YOU and can be easily modified and it’s flex and buoyancy. You won’t get that same feel with a two piece GP. So if you just want a compact deck paddle the Greenland may not be for you.
Btw. The Greenland Paddle blade is usually shaped as a narrow flattened dihedron tapering to an oval wing at the tips. This shape has almost no aerodynamic drag and therefore we do not index the blades. Proper paddling technique with a GP is with a straight wrist which is another advantage reducing carpal tunnel injuries and wrist pain.
I have often noticed that many of the paddles I have looked at have replaceable tips. I have never seriously damaged a paddle on its tips. If I know I am going to be in a “high contact” area with rocks or WW I do not think I would be using a GP, and pull out one of my war paddles (Werner Tybee poly blades)
The tips on some of the GP paddles vary from oval to nearly squared off; does the shape of the tip make a huge difference in lift in rolling or a wide sweep? or is it a preference thing when handling the end of the paddle?
replaceable tips would allow you to change the color of the tip. I doubt that the tip will ever wear enough while the paddle is still serviceable otherwise , to ever need replacing. If you are depending on the tip shape for rolling, you need to practice more. The tip shape does make a difference in the catch and the way the paddle loads during the stroke.
when I refer to tip shape , I am talking , not about square or rounded. I am talking about the actual taper of the tip or the flare of the tip.
A flared tip will load at the entry and be better for sprinting. A tapered tip will catch smoother and the load will build farther back {after the big muscles have come to a better/less extended position} and be easier on the joints and impart less shock and be less fatiguing for distance paddling.
I should also qualify my statement about for rolling, if you are depending on paddle shapes, you need to practice more. Rolling is more about body mechanics than paddle shape {or should be} There are paddles that will enhance beginning rolling and so if you are going to own a paddle you need to chose some things over others depending on your focus. I have chosen {for my personal paddles} paddle shapes that enhance the forward stroke. And the efficiency of the forward stroke, but I realize some people focus and paddling venue is different. Many paddlers don’t have miles to go in the smaller lakes and thus might opt for a more rolling focus and a paddle shape that takes that into account.
@roym said:
A flared tip will load at the entry and be better for sprinting. A tapered tip will catch smoother and the load will build farther back {after the big muscles have come to a better/less extended position} and be easier on the joints and impart less shock and be less fatiguing for distance paddling.
I am struck by a language barrier here, I think. I have absolutely no idea what “flared” and “tapered” means in this context. Could you point to some images of typical flared and tapered tips.
I’ve seen photos of Inuit GPs with bone tips that are wider than the rest of the blade. This adds surface area and should increase the initial “bite” of the blade. I’m pretty sure that this is what Roy means.
