@Monkeyhead said:
Longboatsurfer, when you do that (capsize into the wave), what do you do with your paddle and torso? I would guess that you tuck both onto deck, but maybe if the water is deep enough you would want to keep torso untucked to act as an anchor and prevent window shading in surf. On the other hand, I wonder if depth calculations are unreliable in breaking waves due to unpredictable troughs and possibility of boat being temporarily slammed down, below the surface. Not to mention…well, OK, I guess I AM mentioning it…that in rocky areas there may be items on the bottom that rise above the nominal water depth. So tuck torso and paddle onto deck I would assume.
I use the same techniques described by others above, Tucking and getting into a roll position as described. The amount of commitment into the wave to prevent window shading (which is generally what I am doing!) is proportional with the size and energy of the wave. I feel it is always safer/better to over commit rather than under commit to the wave. When in a compromised position, eg if I find myself horizontal to a very large wave, I will literally “stab” the wave face with my paddle and follow with my head initially, and then tuck tight so as not to allow the wave to grab my paddle and maytag me. This is initiated in a high brace position with elbows kept low and tight to the body. Done with mucho gusto, really throwing myself into the big wave face. After the initial impact, leaning back or forward can effect the final orientation of your boat and whether you might be able to surf out of the wave, side surf, or just roll up on the back side.