Don’t remember where I got this from, but it us a good reminder of how much to deploy the skeg in different wind directions,
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changes the way the wind exerts pressure (think - exposed area pushes the boat) on the center of lateral effort. Like it or not, the weight load changes the balance point of the hull in the water as well as the direction the boat is pushed by wind. This is independant of how currents and forward movement affects tracking. A skeg is like feathers on an arrow; raising and lowering increases the effect, so its essentially passive. The rudder does the same thing, but it’s more effective being at the stern and is more active in changing direction.
So why not just get either or both? Some boat designs depend on one or the other, while designs may need neither. My 125 Tsunami doesn’t track as straight, but its very easy to edge, and it’s short enough to muscle around. The 145 Tsunami is a good balance that responds to edging, and the length helps it track straight, except in contrary currents and wind from certain quarters. It doesn’t “need” either, in my opinion, because I’ve “learned” to easily influence handling with edging and paddle technique. As mentioned elsewhere, going into the wind is easy, while wind from 4 through 8 o’clock are harder to control, but managable under 15 mph. The 175 Tsunami is sometimes hard to manage and downright exhausting in the same conditions as the winds increase above 15 mph and currents come from the side. I would not get the 175 Tsunami without a rudder, but “I” use it more for going straight rather than to turn, unlessdon’t use it to turn. Edging takes care of turns, unless its used to counteract forces of weather cocking. This doesn’t necessarily apply to all boats of the same side. Two members improved the characteristics of their kayak (a Tsunami and a Tempest) by move the seat rearward. The Delta brand has models with a moveable seat - hmmm! How does that impact handling.
Are there drawbacks of either? Skegs take up carrying space, add cables and complexity, can jamb which is a problem “if” the boat depends on it to go straight. It’s worth noting that a skeg might detract from handling in cross currents. Skegs are subject to damage and costs more money. Rudders are better in many ways. It can improve tracking while it can also actively turn the boat, but in some ways it has more drawbacks. Cost is about $300. It adds cables and complicates the foot peg arrangement (sliding style vs the pedal style - “I” have no problem with either style; when the rudder is locked on the deck, the foot pegs are reasonably locked, but that is a problem if you do need it and you’re paddling solo). Drawbacks are cost, especially if you can’t afford a boat, and complexity. It can hamper certain remounts drills. Weight may seem minor,
but if a 59 lb boat is too much to handle, you don’t want to add more weight you won’t use. It adds length and issues when handling, storing and transporting - If I carry a rudder boat in the truck bed, the rudder goes out to prevent scratching the rear of the bed or damage to the rudder, but the rudder complicates securing “my” boat. Dropping the boat can seriously damage the rudder or your car. In the stowed position, the 3 x 15 inch WILL change the center of lateral effort, depending on how the boat is balanced before adding the rudder in stowed position; however, most boat weathercock, so how much more would you welcome.
Another issue is that both create drag. The arguement then becomes how much drag depends on the design, whether it’ll take more effort to overcome the deviation than the drag created by the skeg or rudder, or whether the drag is even an issue. For “me”, drag is undesirable, because it reduces speed and sets me back from what it took me five trips of conditioning to achieve. On the other hand, speed isn’t critical if you’re just out sight seeing, taking pictures or if maintaining spacing in a group is more critical and your destination is within your level of conditioning; that’s personal preference. In a race, it might be more critical to stay in a narrow lane to avoid interference with other racers. It depends on the boat and the skill of the paddler. Although the skeg or rudder will kick up to prevent damage in shallow water, they are of little value in such conditions, and using them in areas with many obstruction, like water water, they could be unsafe or be damaged. Seaweed makes either choice unusable.
Dang! What to do? That’s easy - join a forum, read, talk to paddlers who enjoy the style of boat and conditions that match your interests, look at reviews, and above all make sure you paddle the boat before you buy it.
A rudder can turn the boat, but for most sea kayaks a rudder will cause more drag than using various strokes and edging to turn the boat. Just turning the boat bleeds off speed and uses a fair amount of energy, but just turning is a brief exercise. When used to counteract the wind over a very long distance however, edging and corrective strokes can be slower and very tiring when compared to using a skeg or rudder.
The Webster definition generally refers to the vast majority of boats that are not oar or paddle driven. For most of these, the rudder is the only way to turn the boat unless the prop or engine swivels.
Rudders on a surf ski are a bit unique. In most of these boats the rudder is integral to the hull. It can’t be retracted or rested on the deck. Most surf skis are very long and skinny with a rounded hull and no rocker. They can be very difficult to turn without a rudder and don’t take well to edging. They work as well as a standard rudder for counteracting cross winds and when kept straight do not add drag and can actually add to waterline length. They generally won’t snag seaweed or hit bottom obstructions before the hull will.
Rudders, skegs, or neither are part of the great debate. All of these choices have plusses and minuses. In the end it comes down to the boat and the personal preferences of the paddler.
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The message “paddle before you decide to buy” is a recurring bit of advice across several threads on this forum. It’s recurring because it makes good sense. There’s no substitute for on the water test paddling when choosing a boat. But it seems that fewer and fewer retailers offer a try-before-you-buy service. They don’t want to carry inventory. They want buyers to pre-order, usually at full MSRP, and pick up in a few weeks or months.
I would love to see a list of places that still offer pre-purchase test paddling. I would go out of my way to support them. Perhaps others would as well.
Not that much drag from a rudder when turning unless you pin it all the way. Keeping a course direction the rudder needs very little to turn the hull. You’d in my opinion have more from edging and sweeping strokes.
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River Connection 
and some others in upper NY.
There are some retailers.
Join a local club and try to get people to let you try their hull.
I would let people try mine in safe calmer type conditions. Shallower protected water so I could be close to help.
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Here are a few more:
Bay Creek, Rochester, NY
Oak Orchard, Waterport, NY
Mountain Man, Old Forge NY ($30 / 15 mins, applicable to purchase)
Raquette River Outfitters, Tupper Lake NY
Rutabaga Paddlesports, Madison, WI
Tumalo Creek Canoe and Kayak, Bend, OR
Others?
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Annapolis Canoe & Kayak in Maryland.
- $20 for any Plastic or Rental Composite
- $30 for any SUP, Pedal Drive Kayak, or Floor Model Composite
All demo charges will be applied to the purchase price of any new boat. Demos are 20-30 minutes per boat.
Sorry for the OT post. Didn’t mean to blow this thread off track. 
I’ll resurrect an old ('08), more related thread, and move the test paddle info there.
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@Buffalo_Alice, many dedicated paddlers have very specific paddling requirement. I’m not in that class, but agree that it would be a good option to try a paddle first.
On the other hand, I didn’t know the shortcoming of a paddle until I bought a new one and used it for a season, then went back to try the old one. My first paddle was a light but stiff 220 cm all fiberglass Carlisle. I thought I was selling my teeth whe I paid $120 for it. Then I tried the Aqua Bound line from carbon/reinforced nylon blades, carbon/ fiberglass, and all carbon models. Then a shop recommended the Werner Camano and I loved it. The next season I tried the Werner Kalliste for the blade design. My first Kalliste was 240 cm; the one I prefer is 250 cm (I know, long, but I always go back to it). Each upgrade was because I improved as a paddler and noticed a deficiency in the one I was using.
There are brands that out perform Aqua Bound and Werner Paddles, but both brands perform well are are available in most local stores. Buying from a local shop has advsntages. My shop sent the Werner back for warranty repair; all I did was drop it off and pick it up. They have professionsl staff and share information freely. I might save a few dollars by internet, but they’re available to help and recommend.
I’ve found shortcomings in every paddle I own, except the Kalliste. Out of all the paddles I own, only two are so undesireable I would even give them away. My paddles range from 210 cm through 250 cm; blade area varies from 87 to 110 square inches. The 1st Kalliste is around 10 years old, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything elsewhere. Its all I need.
Annapolis is my go to shop. Great service and advice. Then they rolled my test fee into the purchase of the paddle.
I was talking about boats here, but agree that the same applies to paddles. Right now, I’m wondering if I need a different paddle for my new (to me) Northstar Magic. I intend to use a double blade and my natural stroke is more high angle than low. I’ve lowered the seat an additional 1.5", but am taller than average with a boarding house reach.
@Buffalo_Alice, go for it. You just expanded our horizon.
@rstevens15, Blue Mountain Outfitters on the Susquehanna near Harrisburg , PA is an outstanding, well stocked shop. Shanks Mare below York, PA is another good shop on the Susquahanna.