Dry bags for kayakcamping advice

For short trips, I still my non-waterproof phone into a dry bag within a dry bag. I use a clamp style dry bag for the inner (mostly because I have one), and standard roll top for outer. But even in a ziplock (thicker material freezer bag is better than standard) or other dry bag for inner would likely keep it dry should a little water find its way into the roll top dry bag.

I have a pelican dry box I use for a DSLR.

Clothing and food usually is fine in a standard dry bag. Paddling.camping clothing generally avoids cotton, so even if it got a little wet, it would dry quickly and/or still provide thermal or waterproof functions.

I’m with Celia, I’ve never had a problems roll-top dry bags inside a kayak’s sealed compartments.

The bulkheads on my 26 yr old kayak do need recaulking, so I am presently getting a small amount of water ingress, but as long as I close the roll-top correctly, there is no problem. I also have good quality drybags (Seal Line, Sea-to-Summit, MEC) which I think is also key.

I enjoyed reading the magazine article that Peter-CA gave a link to.

We’ve been paddling Texas rivers for a number of years. About 500 miles and over 30 nights camped. I’m doing a series of videos on various rivers, but I’m in the middle of doing a few videos on preparing where I am going to talk about the gear I bring. I will be publishing one of those in the next few weeks. I’m going to talk about sleeping gear, cooking gear, and storage. Subscribe if you would like a notification of when that one drops. I do like roll top bags. Here’s my channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOb_BCCjB0iM-rZjhxtsNZQ

1 Like

Roll-top dry bags are an easy DIY project and you can make then any size or shape you need. All it takes is some heat-seal Nylon or polyester fabric, some 3/4" flat webbing and matching plastic Fastex-type buckles. The heat-seal fabric is folded and sealed to itself on two sides using a regular clothes iron. Sew some webbing and a buckle on the open side and you’ve got a dry bag. It really is that simple and they work great. I’m sure there’s instructions online if you search.

I made a few 20 years ago and they’re still in use.

1 Like

Thanks for all the replies everyone! I think I’m going with a Watershed dry bag for sleeping bag, pads, tent, and sleeping clothes and sea-to-summit (i just like that company) roll tops for everything else. I may use some of the ideas here for double bagging the roll tops.

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated! I love reading all the DIY ideas too… gets the brain thinking and the hands doing.

Make sure to lubricate the seal on your Watershed bag when you get it and periodically relubricate it.

2 Likes

Good to know thanks. Any specific lubricant that works well? And for the zipper as well as all stitching I’m assuming?

I believe that Watershed is still recommending 303 Protectant. They will include a small packet with the bag.

If you have any questions, just call the phone number on the Wateshed website. The owner is quite helpful. I have spoken to him several times.

2 Likes

I have two watershed bags. Great design, top notch materials. I lubricate the zip lock seal when it starts to get a bit difficult to close, about once a month. I use 303.

I use a Feathercraft Kahuna and load it with a myriad of small roll top dry (damp) bags. For critical items I double bag. I never want, and have never had, my sleeping bag get wet. I don’t use the sea sock that came with the boat as where I normally paddle (Thailand) it is just too warm. It is not that hard to keep mud, water and sand out of the boat. Before a big trip I turn all the dry bags inside out and fill them with water to see what happens. Leaks are Aquasealed. It’s amazing how much money you end up spending on dry bags… I use one or two bear vaults as well to keep Rodentius Commonus at bay.