1" Maybe
I’m with Elmo. It won’t take much of a load to bend up 3/4" EMT. I think going to a larger diameter tubing might be stiffer than a thicker wall. 1" EMT might do it. 1 1/4" would for sure.
I agree
3/4 will bend/kink fairly easy. 1" is almost twice as strong if you can use it. 1 1/4 gets you back into the weight equal to the rigid pipe.
Go rigid
Jack,
For the best strength, stay away from Lowes/Home Despot and go to an electrical supply house. The rigid electrical conduit is more like schedule 40 steel pipe and its galvanized for outdoor installation. EMT is just too easy to bend and it tends to fold up under load. The unistrut will be much better, but it will be noisey. Those handy holes and slots will whistle in almost any wind and at many different speeds. I built a rack years ago from slotted angle and it was like driving the worlds biggest whistle. Had to cover the unused holes and slots with duct tape to quiet it down. It was strong and easy to tie stuff to.
How about some scrap stainless steel or titanium tubing? Much more rigid and corrosion resistant.
Personally Jack, I would go with Charlies A-Frame suggestion for the front. It would give you an independently supported point and be easily removable. Extending your rack forward will put more stress on the rack mounting points and towers. And it will be leveraged stress.
Bill
Jackl,
Take a look at www.kayakpro.com and click on EZ-Vee kayak carrier, either the Pro or Plus might be the best fit for you.
HEX
hey jack
If I was to do it in my usual countryboy way I would buy the emt and a few 90’s and bend some shorter pieces to match the contour to where the 10’ length will meet.then add my 90’s that would give better support. your main tie down area is still your crossbars this will just help support the end from that swaing that might occur.and have a full 10’ support area.
Jeremy
I totally agree but . . .
You are right that most Thule product, while they are supposed to work with round bars, don’t very well. The clamps on the Slipstream are much better suited and because of the framing, are going to work very well. There’s nothing to rotate on a round bar with this system.
I don’t think the price is outragious. The saddles and rollers alone cost $200. Knowing that this will work right out of the box and having a lifetime warranty has to be worth the other $100. My time is too valuable to tinker with something when there is already a great product out there.
Dear Jack, I’d go with
square tubing to cut down on the bending.
Good luck,
Terry
The verdict …
I picked up two lengths of 1" EMT today at Lowes and will use that.
As a few posters pointed out, it is much stronger and more rigid than 3/4".
It appears that the OD is just about the same as my Yakama bars OD too.
Many thanks to everyones thoughts and suggestions
cheers,
JackL
Pictures
Love to see some when you are done.
Will do.
Just waiting, before I start, on a reply from my brother who is a CE whether I should bolt them to the top or the bottom of the cross bars.
Any one want to weigh in? (keeping in mind that they will only be cantilevered about 24 or 30 inches)
cheers,
JackL
How ‘bout the front one over and the aft
one under … : 0
1 vote for both on top, might as well let the front bar carry some more load insted of just hardware.
Q: Jack … can you slide boat back any further ?
Remember those cradles I was talking about that get layed up in the same contour of the hull right where it sits on racks? These distribute the load better and more evenly than anything, have the least amount of drag ( can be designed for two second removal too ) AND hold the boat perfectly still with LESS strap pressure going down the road. Call me if you want.
Above is what I have done for my own boats. Including a 24’ prototype tandem too.
Hey when the heck are you getting
– Last Updated: Dec-05-07 6:44 AM EST –
the new screw type ferrules?
We will be heading out of here in a couple of weeks and won't be back till spring.
I can't slide it back. I'll be hauling a travel trailer, and the stern of the yak won't be a happy stern when I make a sharp turn.
( I never knew I could write poetry, and then all of a sudden my talent blossoms out)
cheers,
JackL
Hi Jack,
Machinest called me yesterday, returning his call today … I believe everything is done.
Believe it or not, I missed his call because I was working on a Smaller Endurance Race wing for you guys yesterday …
Hope the new boat came out great … will be in touch.
Here they are
– Last Updated: Dec-07-07 6:24 AM EST –
[http://thumb10.webshots.net/t/60/460/6/96/52/2857696520088080270BHMWSA_th.jpg](http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2857696520088080270BHMWSA)
[http://thumb10.webshots.net/t/68/68/2/28/21/2182228210088080270HHajAE_th.jpg](http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2182228210088080270HHajAE)
[http://thumb10.webshots.net/t/50/650/7/38/14/2579738140088080270UvZVpY_th.jpg](http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2579738140088080270UvZVpY)
The rack will do exactly what I want it to do, which is stabilize the long over hang in front, but Fat Elmo was right. It would not be strong enough to act simply as a support.
The extension is 3'-4".
I will still use my original two straps for the tiedowns and then use a strap in front loosly tied, just to keep the boat connected to the saddle.
I have a saddle on the rear bar, just for sliding the boat on, buit when the boat is nestled in the forward cradles, it doesn't even touch the rear one.
Total cost was $20, not counting the bolts, nuts, and washers which I already had.
I am not sure how long it will take to rust, but time will tell on that.
Cheers,
JackL
