Kevlar fabric is not stiff, but is hard
to cut. Some say sharp, high quality scissors, but I use cheap office scizzors (metal handles, avoid pseudo Fiskars), which have relatively rough blade edges. As I cut, I use short strokes, well back in the throat of the scissors, and as I take each cutting stroke, I pull back away slightly, which seems to cause the rough blades to grab the Kevlar fibers and cut them without jamming on them. Hard to describe, easy to do. I can cut straight or on the bias without difficulty.
Kevlar is not stiff, and when bias cut, will conform well to contours. Obviously it is harder to see if Kevlar is wet out than it is with fiberglass, but with good light, and working a layer at a time, it is not a problem.
Unlike glass, Kevlar is not coated. Those using glass should make sure it is “fresh,” that is, manufactured within the last few years, and that it has been stored in dry conditions. Epoxy and vinylester resin may not adhere as well to old glass cloth, because the coating may have deteriorated. Going back to Kevlar, all available resins stick well to it. Vinylester will bond BETTER to polyester (CAP) cloth, because the solvent eats into the surface of the cloth. Effect does not work with anything but polyester and vinylester/ polyester resins.
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Will Kevlar and fiberglass boats “flex” when you paddle over an object in the water? For instance, on our recent Edisto River trip there were numerous places in the river where one had to paddle very hard at a submerged log and hit it like a speed bump letting the momentum carry you up, over and onto the other side. These “speed bumps” were anywhere from an inch or so above the water to lying just below the surface. With my plastic Cape Horn, I noticed that my hull tended to just flex all along the bottom as I went over the log. Would Kevlar or fiberglass boats flex less resulting in more of a “see-saw” type action and is there a risk of cracking the resins?
I have to admit, I’m pretty rough on my boat, dragging it through the woods on portages and driving it up onto boat ramps…etc…I’m just wondering if I could get away with a boat made of any other material 
BeachAV8R
Ar you sure you didn’t do…
…the Black Water River Race, (Edistoe at Orangeburg) with us last week.
You are describing exactly what we were doing with our kevlar canoe, and we didn’t do any damage at all.
On the other hand, having owned yaks and canoes made out every mateerial, you wouldn’t want to drag your fiberglass or kevlar yak over any gravel or stony areas, or you will be doing a lot of touch up work. Over Smooth wet logs, or grassy areas ok, but not over any harsh materials.
Cheers,
JackL
Lol…
Sounds like your segment of the Edisto (above Orangeburg) was similar to the portion below Orangeburg (down to the confluence of the South Fork)…quite a few trees that were just “speed bumps”…
The North Fork Edisto was the most beautiful river that I personally have paddled. We had such an awesome time. I’m hoping to get together with the same crew we did it with last time and maybe do a double overnighter on it…great people and a perfect river are an awesome combination. Hope to run into you someday down there JackL…
BeachAV8R
Another river that is similar…
to the Edistoe is the Lumber.
It also has the beautiful “coca-cola” water flowing over snow white sand bars.
I think about sixty miles of it is a designated canoe trail.
Yes, I would like to meet a lot of folks here on P-net, like yourslf, Kudzu, and Joe Mess.
We were fortunate this past Feb when we went down to the Keys to paddle, and met the So. Florida contingent.
See you on the river, lake, ocean, swamp or whever there is water.
Cheers,
JackL