Yes you do Jim
I did not think this was a controversial topic. I received advice from Bill at Lumpy when I purchased the paddle. I was curious to see what other GP users were doing.
Some of the comments above were enlightening and I thank those that responded in a constructive and instructive manner.
I am also using the Minwax blend and have applied the first coat and it seems to work fine.
10 coats is your thinking
I’ve done as few as two coats, and some have yet to be recoated.
Stuff takes seconds to apply (can just be rubbed on by hand) - wait 5-10 - and wipe off excess with a rag. No chemicals, and no brush cleanup - real hard 'eh?.
We here at P-Net
do have a knack for entertaining ourselves with arcane trivia and techniques.
Rest assured that no matter which finish is used, the chances of your paddle spontaneously combusting are practically zero. But there are those who would argue those odds!
Jim
Also a Lumpy Customer
When my Lumpy starts getting nicked and notched I'll sand it smooth where it needs it. Then I'll apply some Formby's Tung Oil Finish where it needs it and allow it to dry. I let the paddle dry overnight between coats and make sure to feel the surface and make sure it's dry. Then I might coat the entire paddle. I can pretty much eyeball which areas need how much finish. The fine steel wool takes off that (IMHO-butt-ugly) gloss and it looks and feels great. Maybe 2 or 3 times a year will the paddle need touching up.
Sorry, Grey.
the 10 coats comment was in response to Wayne Smith’s post above. For the most part, we are in agreement.
I have been with a mannequin.
It feels just like the real thing, even without tung oil.
inflammatory jsaults
"the chances of your paddle spontaneously combusting are practically zero".
I think the odds are closer to 0.0054%, which I would argue is really not at all "practically zero". Sheesh, jsaults.
Well, that's my 0.02 cents, anyhow; which is "practically a dollar".
;-)
Kud and Jsaults…what’d ya use on tips?
Seriously, I wonder.
I have a reinforced wooden tip with PU, so when I wish to paddle I just grab the mannequin--I mean, paddle--and go for it.
But with very soft WRC, I think some tipping may be in order. Anyone PU the tips, at least, or is that heresy because the Inuits did not have synthetic flourocarbons and carcinogenic benzenes like us contemporary cats.
A more serious answer.
And I don’t know what’s happened to cockney, because he could add something to this.
There is a window of opportunity, between coats of drying oil applications, during which it is, technically, advisable to re-coat. Once the oil has fully cured (polymerized), additional applications will achieve only a mechanical bond to the surface below. This is why it is often recommended to scuff-sand before subsequent applications, as to provide a roughened surface for better adhesion. Ideally, one should re-apply when the first coat has hardened enough so as to not easily go back into solution during the next application. Timing varies with environmental conditions, such as temperature and relative humidity, but a slightly tacky feel is a good indicator. Beware that exposed end grain will suck up much more oil than side grain will, and those areas will take longer to “dry”.
It’s not rocket science, but there are a lot of variables involved and more than enough opinions to keep some of us entertained. Wood finishing sometimes seems like alchemy and misinformation is common. Product manufacturer’s marketing babble doesn’t help, as a rule.
I apologize if my banter has in any way disappointed you or diminished the perceived value of this forum or its vaunted contributors. I can offer only my own poorly developed sense of humor in defense.
Paddle finishes
After reviewing all these posts about wood paddle finishes, ranging from varnish to oil, to concoctions made by wizards, to nothing, I’ve come to two conclusions…1, it doesn’t matter what you use, it’s going to have to be re-done in time; and 2, possibly the most important thing is the shaft must be absolutely smooth under the hands for long-term comfort.
Yup, I’m liking the goose grease…
more and more.
Seriously
I really have yet to refinish my GP (came from Mitchell varnished). Where the tips have worn I have just rubbed on some Watco.
Jim
I too have a Mitchell Horizon.
I don;t know if it’s apr varnish of PU, but it’s nice.
I have a Superior wood and carbon
From their website:
“Our wood paddles are computer carved from a laminated pine assembly.”
“Wood paddles are epoxy saturated to deeply penetrate and seal the wood. A hand rubbed oil and varnish finish allows the natural warmth and feel of the wood to be appreciated.”
“The blades are tipped with an epoxy/silica bead to simulate the ivory edging of ancient paddles.”
So Far…
I’ve used nothing on the tips. When they get dinged up beyond my tolerance level I sand 'em out. I’ve seriously considered doing the epoxy dip on a paddle or two but here’s the deal… hard stuff scratches the hell out of my deck and the wood doesn’t. I may put down some protective stuff on a section or two of the deck to protect from scratching. BNystrom posted his solution and it looked pretty elegant.
I’m Making
A paddle right now, for dancing on the water...
it's nice to do a little dancing with some wing tips on.
http://www.geocities.com/roym52/G-Man-1.jpg
Best Wishes
Roy
it didn’t make you thirsty?
did the mannequin complain of rawness?
Mitchell tells me
they "use a UV stabilized, high-gloss, polyurethane finish. Any marine supply store or good hardware store should have something that would work. We use three coats, sanding lightly in between coats." in response to my query after I extended my Horizon's loom. I ended up sanding and real tung oiling the whole thing as I had a can, it is easy to apply and I like the process.
Tips
I coat my tips with deep gouges, scratches, small chunks of sand and shell, and dried clay and mud.
Seriously.
