You’re a sick woman…
mounting bambi on your kayak. I’m telling PETA. Besides, that could hinder your roll.
Don’t Know About Mounting
– Last Updated: Aug-09-04 4:26 PM EST –
the head on the kayak but you can take the antlers and cut them down to make beads and tensioners for the deck straps for the SOF.
sing
do you think
he’d notice the antlers missing?
You Would Know Better
than me. LOL!!!
sing
No joints in the blades
Contrary to popular belief, the most stress and flex on the paddle is not at the shoulder junction, it’s in the the blade. You can easily test this yourself by flexing a paddle. Most of the broken GPs I’ve seen have broken somewhere between the shoulder and mid-blade. The only exceptions have been paddles with obvious grain defects at the failure point. In view of this, putting a joint in the blade seems like a bad idea.
Any joint is a "bad idea"
But if you have to place one - I suppose the standard mid-loom location is best.
I wasn’t advocating otherwise Brian, just throwing out a “what if?”.
As for construction, a decent traditionally shaped loom joint should not require some engineering miracle to do. Rather disappointing the the only options available now are round shaft (glass or carbon) ferrules grafted in - but they’re functional, and demand is low, so there we are.
On your other points:
“Contrary to popular belief, the most stress and flex on the paddle is not at the shoulder junction, it’s in the the blade.”
Well, as 75-80% of a GP is blade - I suppose that’s one way to look at it. Can’t speak to “popular belief”, or how things may appear, but simple physics would indicate the ends of the blades and the looms would flex more - as the material is thinner there. They should then also be most vulnerable areas.
“You can easily test this yourself by flexing a paddle.”
Actually, I can’t. Very little if any flex in my carbon GP.
“Most of the broken GPs I’ve seen have broken somewhere between the shoulder and mid-blade. The only exceptions have been paddles with obvious grain defects at the failure point. In view of this, putting a joint in the blade seems like a bad idea”
Bad idea probably - certainly in that limited scope. You are assuming a wood GP in relation to potential breaks (some us us have other), and your experiences may not be the most valid sample. Tips/edges should be most vulnerable, then looms - being the next thinnest area. Breaks anywhere with wood are most often related to grain irregularities - some not readily visible. Anything can break - and will do so along the path of least resistance.
Given the irregularities of wood - it’s hard to say - but seems odd to me that you get breaks at what should be the stoutest part of the paddle.
Greg’s carbon snapped on the loom near or at the shoulder (but of course that’s where he was stressing it - against the keel at the time. Compression related stress [very bad for carbon], not “normal paddling” stress related).
More on joints and paddle flex
– Last Updated: Aug-11-04 9:01 AM EST –
"But if you have to place one - I suppose the standard mid-loom location is best."
Agreed.
"As for construction, a decent traditionally shaped loom joint should not require some engineering miracle to do. Rather disappointing the the only options available now are round shaft (glass or carbon) ferrules grafted in - but they're functional, and demand is low, so there we are."
I agree. There's nothing special required, just a different shape. Perhaps, "If you build it, they will come." ;-)
"Well, as 75-80% of a GP is blade - I suppose that's one way to look at it. Can't speak to "popular belief", or how things may appear, but simple physics would indicate the ends of the blades and the looms would flex more - as the material is thinner there. They should then also be most vulnerable areas."
True enough, though if you flex a few, you'll find most of the flex is near mid blade. That's apparently where the ratio of stiffness-leverage is at its lowest. Also keep in mind that a beam oriented across the direction of force (like a blade) is much more flexible than a beam oriented along the direction of force (like a loom).
"Actually, I can't. Very little if any flex in my carbon GP."
Obviously, I wasn't talking about carbon paddles. However, since you brought them up, I wonder why Superior doesn't make a two-piece version? All they would have to do is fabricate an inner sleeve and install it in the middle. It seems simple enough.
"You are assuming a wood GP in relation to potential breaks (some us us have other), and your experiences may not be the most valid sample."
Granted. However, I have seen a pretty broad range of broken paddles from several different manufacturers (most were custom made). I've never broken any of the paddles I've made. I attribute that mainly to being very picky about grain orientation and leaving a reasonable amount of material in the blades.
"Tips/edges should be most vulnerable"
Of course, but edge chipping and splintering are not the same as breakage. I've always reinforced the tips of my paddles with epoxy and fiberglass or Dynel. I've also started putting oak edges on them. This adds a couple of ounces at most, but greatly improves the edge durability of the paddle.
"then looms - being the next thinnest area."
The loom is not the next thinnest area (parts of the blades have less cross sectional area) and its orientation makes it stiffer than portions of the blades.
"Breaks anywhere with wood are most often related to grain irregularities - some not readily visible. Anything can break - and will do so along the path of least resistance."
Sure.
"Given the irregularities of wood - it's hard to say - but seems odd to me that you get breaks at what should be the stoutest part of the paddle."
You don't. You're under a misconception regarding the stresses, strength and stiffness in a wooden GP. As I stated above, I haven't had any breaks, personally.
"Greg's carbon snapped on the loom near or at the shoulder (but of course that's where he was stressing it - against the keel at the time. Compression related stress [very bad for carbon], not "normal paddling" stress related).
Exactly. Composites are particularly vulnerable to this due to crippling failures in the thin wall.
Two piece carbon.
“I wonder why Superior doesn’t make a two-piece version? All they would have to do is fabricate an inner sleeve and install it in the middle. It seems simple enough.”
The more I understand this paddle, the less I find anything simple about it. From the computer cut foam cores to the layup - it’s a pretty slick piece of engineering.
I’m sure it could be done - but not by just sticking in a sleeve. It’s strength is in the matrix - not solid material. This would not be like slapping a ferrule into a wood paddle. If you cut it - the support is gone and it could crush easily (blades are foam cored, looms are not). A sleeve might give support there, but could create stress points and risk of shear/compression type failures. The loom is not built like a thick carbon paddle shaft that is still strong when cut to length.
Much easier to do 2 piece wood.
At least that’s how I see it. I could be wrong. Only Mark Rogers knows for sure (and Greg would have a good idea as he’s seen the inside of the loom).
Vintage Wood
I realize it’s a bit late for suggestions but I’d still like to add my two cents.
I carved my GP from part of an old door frame that I found in my Father-in-law’s garage. The wood appears to be clear old growth Douglas fir with a tight, clear, straight grain and is at least fifty years dry. The paddle turned out nice and light, with just the right amount of flex. There was another peice long enough to allow me to carve a matching storm paddle. There is also a big enough scrap left for the shaft of another full size paddle. I plan to laminate it to some other type wood and carve another one this coming winter. I realize that my find was rare good fortune but I just wanted to suggest keeping your eyes open for unconventional sources of materials or perhaps even purchasing reclaimed lumber.