Hmmmm…seems that you might be better off having the joint where the loom enters the shoulder instead of in the center of the loom. How about having a slightly-tapered loom extension slide into the blade root and engage a stainless camlock fastener, something like the ones used in knockdown furniture? You’d just need an additional hole big enough for a hex key.
well no one wants
to hear this,
But Al Anderson of Betsie Bay will do a take a apart.
He doesn’t like to do them, but he will.
It cost extra and above the 220 price tag though. I am having him do it to my older and longer “Inuit” which is 90" x 3.5". This way I can have a full size spare, and something to travel with on the airlines.
Offers a TAP(take-a part) greenland.
Measure from floor to top of you palm (arm raised vertical) for a ballpark fit. Paddle should be just long enough that you can wrap your fingers over it standing. That’s a loose quide though. Some like a little shorter, some longer (same with guidelines for sizing loom length and blade width).
I like my 88. Feels right. At 5’9" (nearly 6 ft armspan) I have to stretch just a hair to get fingers over - but it’s in range.
If you are serious about the carbon, and can swallow the price - it is a very sweet paddle. 88" or 89" should work. Loom will be about 21". Worked perfect for me as it ends up being the exact length as if I would have custom ordered in wood. Matches my shoulder/grip width and kayak beam well.
With wood, you can get more size and other options. Different makers have different size options - and many custom build.
Almost unlimited in ways you can use a GP.
You can use a very winglike stroke, but hand are lower (upper hand with wing is at eye to chin level - probably somewhere below chin to mid/upper chest with GP) due to shorter loom.
The qajaqUSA videos are great. Also search for wing stroke video as and compare.
Some other differnces with a more GP specific stroke: Catch is a bit softer - and you can extend the stroke farther back with GP. When doing this you can add a slight ab crunch to the motion.
Too much else to ramble about here. The water will show you.
Oh - one last thing on the carbon. It transimits sound very well. You can hear any bubbles being drawn in with the stroke (grating/hissing/flushing sound). Clean catches and strokes are silent. The paddle teaches you a good stroke if you listen. When you hear nothing, you’re there! (Wood does this too, just not so clearly). The sound paddling head on into a rain shower is to cool to desribe.
I’m wanting to build my own boat. I’m a beginner, but no stranger to tippy boats. Greenland style or Bidarka boats are the only kayaks that interest me. I’m considering Mark Rodgers class this fall, but his construction materials concern me (using jute and cotton rather than synthetics)
Any advice for a 5’11 3/4" 200lber, as far as boats?
I’ve looked at the Artic Hawk and Shearwaters 19ft bidarka. I’d be sold on the kayak class if it wasn’t for the cotton and jute.
What do you all think?
If You 're Not Turned Off
with working with your hands, get Mark Starr, Chris Cunningham and/or Robert Morris' books on how to build a Greenland SOF. I prefer Morris' approach and his book has directions for a rather narrow rocket like baidarka -- not a first boat -- and other boats as well. Morris' approach will lead you to a good first boat -- a little challenging in beam for someone new to kayaking but not overwhelming.
Then as you begin to build, go to qajaq/usa or kayakforum to get answers and support as you go.
If you want a baidarka, get Wolfgang Brink's book and do a search on the Baidarka builders litserv.
Here is the Qajaq/USA reference page:
For those who may not
know, modest Sing paddles a beautiful handmade skin-on-frame boat, when he’s not thrashing waves in his whitewater boats.
Well, you folks talked me in to it. I ordered a carbon Superior yesterday. Now it’s time for waiting on the UPS truck I guess. I’m pretty excited about it!
Did around 9 miles this morning with a Wing. While I’ve enjoyed paddling with it for a few days, I’m becoming more and more convinced that it is not what I want for every day use. The carbon GP from Superior should be a good fit for me I think.
Thanks again for all the input and advice on this thread and others.
Don is a good guy–a real craftsman. I highly recommend his work. I build my own (which fall short of the finish he puts on his!), but if I were to buy one, I’d have Don make one for me.