good wood is not hard to find…
I work at a family owned lumberyard and know that clear western red cedar can be had. In fact a friend came by and we sorted a few 4x4 cedar post and got lucky and he is making his GP paddles now. Like I said we got lucky, I would have to order in a clear grade, it is not a common stocked item. But I have several vendors that I can order from. I can re-post on Monday with a price. I suggest you go to a REAL lumberyard (not Menards, Lowes or Home Depot) and ask for a price on a clear grade red cedar 2x4. They most likely will have to order it, but it is out there.
GP
How much does a GP weigh?
I don’t know about you…
… but menards is in mepants!
Weights vary
– Last Updated: Nov-04-06 2:17 AM EST –
Mine (and Kim's) range from 24-32 ounces which is comparable to high end euros/wings (my Epic mid wing with length lock weighs 26 oz)
More specifically (weighed on digital kitchen scale):
88" Superior Carbon (3 1/2" max blade with) - 28 oz.
88" self carved solid WRC (3 1/4" blades) - 29 oz.
83" Solid WRC from Don Beale (3 1/8" blades) - 32 oz.
80" Solid (cedar? pine?) made by Sing (2 5/8" blades with FG reinforced tips - 24 oz.
76" Superior Carbon Storm (3 1/2" blades) - 25 oz
72" self carved laminated cedar shoulderless Storm (3 1/2" blades) - 25 oz.
Also keep in mind the weight is distributed more evenly/centrally with GPs - not more out at the ends like other paddle types, so GPs feels even lighter in use. Also have more buoyancy so they support themselves through the stroke (effective weight with blades immersed is usually about zero - mine push back slightly adding to stability) and they practically jump out at the release making turnover easier. Also catch less wind. Mostly small differences - but it adds up over thousands of strokes.
had my 3 star assessment this past week
and during the assessment the ‘main’ coach, an Anglessey type lad with many stars to his name looked at a lessor coach and said ‘i dont know anything about that paddle’…luckily the lessor coach chimed in and I was allowed to extend the GP as I have been taught to do so many times with the ‘main’ coach agreeing that I was to do anything that fomented my strokes…but it was also mentioned that, as the main coach said ‘reality is that to enter coaching the Euro blade must be used’…good, but my lifeline does not include coaching…what pleased me most was that the lessor (I keep saying lessor, but the two other coaches were there to obstensibly observe the main coach, though they took many notes on the students efforts) coach was paddling with a Euro blade but had a full length GP on deck! …so what I took home from this is why not have the best of both worlds and pluck from the deck the tool that suits.
And a comment on how GPs work…much already discussed on the magic of a GP but there is something else to ponder on…look at the total amount/inches of edge–not surface area but total length of edge. Water passes around things with effort, it passes past/around/over an edge with great effort…the amount of edge presented with a GP grows/increases as the stroke begins and progresses to the end when that ever so long blade is fully immersed. Edge creates bight too, it is the resistance of water to go around the edge that gives the bight even more bight than on one might expect with a ‘skinny’ blade…when you get bored measure the tot. edge length of a GP and compare it to that of an EP…something to think about.
Rumor heard at the symposium—that Superior will in the early part of next year offer a take-apart carbon GP…can you say salivation?
My next move. I’ll never live to see mastery of the GP but I’ve got some working rolls/braces/balanced brace/etc. now with the GP and I think its time to study EPs…I think I should be able to use either, so while a certain part of the paddling world it headed to GP I’m headed to EP and think someday I’ll have the best of both worlds.
FYI, It’s Very Clear WRC
Weight…
Don’t forget GPs float, So while paddling they feel much lighter. Please excuse me pointing out the obvious.
I’ve been using my heaviest (solid pine) paddle more often. Not sure why but I think my stroke mechanics are better with it.
I live in the U.P. of Michigan
and I’ve been told they are in Wisconsin and Minnesota. They are the large home improvement store in these areas. With some digging around you can find excellent boards at a great price. I have heard of people doing the same thing at Lowes and Home Depots too.
Weight…
But I thought all paddles float? Haven’t thrown my Werner in the water to see. Afraid to lose it.
The greenland paddles
that I have made out of WRC weight between 28-35 oz. For me the 28 oz. paddles are few and far between. I also have made stronger paddles out of spruce that weigh about 38 oz. and pine at 44 oz. Don’t get too caught up in thinking the lightest paddle will be best because the bouyancy of the paddle and the paddle stroke with your hands held closer together makes it an easy stroke with any weight paddle. Like Matt mentioned he likes some of the paddling characteristics of his heavier pine paddle and so do I. My lightweight WRC paddle can give me a faster candence for catching surf waves but the heavier pine paddle gives me a more fluid stroke and I seem to paddle straighter with it when in windy conditions. Once you start making greenland paddles it’s hard to stop. There always seems to be something else to learn.
That makes me think,
float and light are not necessarily good together. It’s like paddle with the paddle float on. It takes effort to dig it into water to state the obvious.
Not necessarily
My WRC GP by Don Beale, weighs in at 29 oz. I have been using it for two years now in a variety of ocean conditions that range from touring to playing in surf to rock gardening light.
The paddle is my favorite paddle and I use it almost exclusively. It is strong yet light enough that I can keep a fairly fast cadence with it without any problems.
Stop thinking and paddle!
Seriously, how hard can it be to bury a long skinny blade?
Much of the magic is in it’s neutrality.
The bouyancy of the greenland
paddle enhances it’s bracing ability and really doesn’t effect the paddle stroke if you use a canted paddle stroke. The degree that the paddle is canted (top edge tilted forward) determines the amount of dive and bite you will get with the paddle. The only time my greenland paddle is held flat against is doing a low brace. The rest of the time the paddle blade will have some of cant to it. This is what makes these paddles special for me.
Neutral is a good word
I think an average GP stood on end would sink to about the halfway point or right in the center of the loom. So sticking a whole blade in the water has a nearly neutral buoyancy or weightlessness.
But anyway, I think the weight issue of paddles is usually overstated. I know for me anyway that I can paddle twice as long with a 3# GP than with a 1# EP. My first GP paddle is a helluva lot heavier than my old EP and I remember immediately getting rid of the tired and sore muscles and cramped hands and wrists when I made the switch.
Like Don mentioned I think a slightly heavy paddle helps some of us with our stroke mechanics too.
"halfway point "
If held vertically in the water mine float a lot higher than that. Over a foot higher. Only maybe 3/4 of one blade submerges on average. If I fully bury the blade paddling they does push back - just not a lot. Not enough to counter the weight of your hand/forearm - so again - pretty neutral.
Clear Western Red Cedar
I thought I would follow up on this just in case any one is interested. I can get a clear Cedar 2x4-8’ S4S KD for $25.00. Special order. We stock a knotty grade for $6.70.
Vertical grain percentage out of total
Given the low percentage of boards that end up with suitable grain orientation (since most lumber is flatsawn and you only get a small percentage with vertical grain from a log this way), I think it really requires being able to pick though a stack. Ordering is just not an option unless you have someone who knows/understands exactly what’s needed and will hand pick for you. Most folks have better things to do with their time.
Besides, shipping lumber often costs more than lumber. If I’m going to that length/expense I’ll just buy a blank from Newfound (or a darn near finished laminated paddle from Superior).
To get a good paddle sized piece locally I have to make many visits and pick through every board, including much larger boards (up to 16’ 2x12) to find ONE good clear vertical grain piece of WRC.
The last piece I bought was a 10’ 2x6 for $17 (not bad). Within it there was a perfect section with good tight vertical grain. I had them rip and cut out the good portion and left with what I needed, leaving the rest to one of the employees who couldn’t understand why I didn’t want it.
This is a full service/specialty sort of place that is used to unusual and specific requests - and that regularly stocks WRC - yet there’s no way I could just call and order a suitable piece.
Cool place though, with absolutely beautiful clear pine for gunwales (they’ll rip while you wait) and lots of nice exotics too - but I don’t go regularly. It’s only about 27 miles from home - but via I-95 through downtown Miami traffic.
I could keep looking for other local suppliers, but so far the options are very large/commercial/contractor oriented, often don’t have WRC (siding/lattice if anything),and don’t like individual consumers wandering the lot or digging through the stacks.
I feel lucky to have a source that is set up for browsing/picking and will custom cut with no wait - even if I do have to make several trips to find one suitable piece. Tough part is not buying anything else while there.
order 4x4 and cut according to grain
Get two paddles out of it too and cheaper shipping. Good 2x4 of WRC cost me $32 and an 80 min. drive to get them. Shipping ain’t such a bad thing to me.
2 from 4x4? Good luck getting one!
– Last Updated: Nov-06-06 5:01 PM EST –
Same grain and selection issues still apply.
I could live with the waste and be happy getting one this way if that were dependable - but every 4x4 post I've ever seen has been pretty knotty and grain was squirrelly (not cosistent end to end). Home centers stock 4x4 so I go through those sometimes too).
Select 4x4 might be an option, but I also lack ability to rip them myself so 4x4 introduces more issues...