Just to the outside
a 14 foot long strap is plenty long to wrap around the bar outside the stops and then it doubles back to you. Often the problem is the tail… there is usually lots left to wrap around a thwart -a safety line so to speak
There’s no slot or need for one.
sure, make your own $3.00
Yeah cant hurt. A little play is good anyway.
Just create a small ledge or bump next to the gunnels to keep from swaying. You can do this many ways. A small bit of foam which also acts like a seal and some duct tape to hold in place. Or just use duck tape. make a bulge. Or a rag or anything… Cost a few buck and will last a couple years.
Why is a little play good? NM
OK, got the picture now. Thanks!
I envision…
A small block of wood hose clamped to the rack. Would think that would be quite effective and still easily adjustable/removable.
Alan
Well Worth It
The quote “Yakima gunwale brackets are one of the most over-priced items in existence, but if you can’t make your own, I’d say they are worth it” sounds like it came from me rather than my friend, Eric. If you make a lot of long distance trips, like many of us do, they are invaluable. Especially out west, those winds seem to get extremely fierce? For a double rack, we use the “Load stops” in the middle and gunwale brackets on the outside since the load stops are an inch or so taller. On our little Chevy Sonic, that can only haul one boat, we have the Yakima gunwale brackets that clamp to the factory rack. Oh, and just because you have gunwale brackets, DON’T FORGET THE BOW TIEDOWNS with bow AND stern being the best “Insurance.”
Loadstops look best
The yakima gunwale brackets come with straps and also, it looks like, with a bow and stern tiedown. I already have good straps and line for tiedowns, so I think I am going to get the loadstops only. The price difference is more than $30. I really need the stops, not more straps. I do agree that bow and stern tiedowns are essential and i do always use them – I just have my own.
Thanks to everyone for guidance.
G in Nc
To me they are a must
I just got back today from carrying a canoe with them.
Keep in mind that they can go on either the inner or the outer side of the gunnel, and make them tight against each gunnel.
They are great in high winds or when that big 18 wheeler comes by at 75 MPH
Jackl, which way do you put the stops?
Inside gunwale or out? Never occurred to me they could go any way but outside.
G
they can go either way
if you have a boat with a shoulder just put them on the inside. That solves the “too tall” problem. We’ve occasionally reversed them that way to secure cockpit down kayaks that.
You’ll bet lots of use out of the LoadStops if that’s what you get.
We will be off for another 12000 mile paddling trip soon and have so far this year been to FL twice ( for 7000 miles) with the Loadstops… and that’s just one year. Wouldn’t leave home ( so to speak ) without them
I want zero play
I don’t understand why any one would want a little play.
I want my canoes to be rock solid with no movement.
jack L
The gunwale brackets also help in an
emergency stop. I once had to stomp the brakes to avoid hitting a guy in the rear, and the canoe did not budge.
It couldn’t be explained by rope triangulation, because that wasn’t all it could be. But when you hit the brakes and the canoe tries to go forward or pivot around the front bar, the little bracket platform bites its teeth against the gunwale and holds the boat in place.
Good roping is important, but when a boat is riding bare Yakima crossbars, rope doesn’t do enough.
I always cut about half of the vertical rise off my gunwale brackets, just to make loading and unloading a spec easier. For some reason, this strikes certain p-netters as the equivalent of mutilation.
2nd GBG’s Back-centered load rec.
Gunwale stops or no, Guideboat Guy’s recommendation to load the boats with the center a little to the rear makes a huge difference in how much the boat wants to shake on the rack, especially in the wind eddy of big trucks.
The center of the boat should be loaded a little behind the center of the racks. This may result in a funny-looking rig, with a lot of the boat hanging out behind the car, but it really makes a big difference in how the boats behave on the rack.
~~Chip
I think some states have
rear hang restrictions.
But for 16 years I have mounted the racks on the cap of the pickup (extended or four door p/u) and mounting the boat symmetrically with respect to the racks usually results in a five foot rear overhang with 18.5 foot boats. This makes parking at rest areas and motels potentially interesting.
You just have to be aware also of traffic behind you and to put plenty of red flag area on the stern of the canoe.
I’ve thought I have had some close calls especially with buses.
But mounting the boat so that the bow is further forward does result in way too much bow shake so I will continue to be rearward vigilant.
Based on past experience car-topping
a 27’ racing scull, I think most states will be OK if you put a red flag on the stern to call attention to it.
We won a court dispute when a trucker failed to flag his long load and while turning, caused it to pivot through the headlight of our car and into the engine compartment.
Sure
Gunwale brackets are the best invention since the hole in the toilet seat!
And another thing:
If you want to keep nicely finished wooden gunnels or carbon ones from scratching if you slide your canoe on just glue small pieces of indoor-outdoor carpet on them.
jack L
My DIY brackets
– Last Updated: Apr-18-14 1:52 AM EST –
Shown on Thule bars.
http://imageshack.com/a/img390/9472/block1br1.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img390/5825/block3io3.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img390/5739/block2xt0.jpg
Nice job
Jack L
I like the wood jhb!
Nice job…very useful and wood is very soft on gunwales…