I use it
… for a little ww, but I’m not running ledges. Class II to short runs of III at the most, no floatation. Tend to take on a lot of water doing that - I think that’s when it happened probably took on water, flexed the boat just enough for the vinyl to sag away from the abs and scrapped over a rock. I plan on trying to patch it this weekend if I can. Thanks for the information on doing the oval patch btw, will do. Not putin’ 'er out to pasture yet. 33 year old boat stills got some life left.
I’ve seen Krylon
painted on plastic bike fenders. It doesn’t stick as good as they claim, and it doesn’t protect from anything harder than UV. Experience trumps conjecture again…
To the OP…
One of us here is in the habit of writing incoherent blather that he thinks is advice. I suggest you listen to the others.
repair options
As ezwater said, you need to remove all of the remaining abrasion plate and any loose vinyl first.
If the outer solid stratum of ABS is intact and not thinned-out after removing the vinyl you probably could get by with just covering it with paint. It is true that Krylon will scrape off but so will every other spray paint I have used. It is my impression that Krylon Fusion adheres marginally better to ABS than some other spray paints. A two part marine polyurethane paint is tougher but much more expensive, harder to apply, and it too will get scrapes. Better IMO to just use spray paint and reapply as needed.
Sometimes you can tell if the solid ABS outer layer is thinned out by going over it and pressing in hard with your thumb. If the ABS indents anywhere you need to cover it with at least one layer of 'glass. Since you already have G Flex and fiberglass, I would probably plan to go ahead and do so regardless.
If the ABS is not thinned out, 1 layer of 6 oz/sq yd fiberglass (the most common fabric weight sold at commercial big box stores) should suffice. If you want a thicker abrasion plate you can add more layers. It is best to apply additional layers while the epoxy of the preceding layer is still green to get a good chemical bond. As daggermat suggested, your cloth will wet out easier and quicker if you apply a thin layer of epoxy to the hull before you lay the 'glass on, then wet it out with additional epoxy. If you cut the 'glass on the bias it will lie down along the curvature of the stem more easily.
I have seen fiberglass skid plates and patches delaminate from Royalex canoes but these were all applied by someone else using conventional epoxy. I have applied patches and/or skid plates of fiberglass, aramid, and Dynel to dozens of Royalex canoes using G Flex and never had one delaminate.
This is a lengthy thread on another forum that has some detailed tips for how to apply fiberglass abrasion plates to Royalex (and composite) boats that you might find helpful:
http://www.canoetripping.net/forums/forum/general-paddling-discussions/diy/17299-%E2%80%8Bskid-plates-an-evolution
a minor
– Last Updated: May-20-15 8:45 AM EST –
problem here is calcite rings on wax. Wax surfaces erode, unfiltered soft water sticks and....lime rings.
Lime rings annoy me.
Getting the calcite off is a XXXXX but the base problem is getting the wax off exposing surface to acids. Trying Turtle Wax deodorized acetone sticker remover this time around.
What's on top of enduro cycle ABS body parts ?
Krylon sticks on vinyl. Good for Royalex decoration.
I guess the next search is 'surface preparation for ABS' but enduro cycle parts are not Royalex canoe body parts...why is that ?