Please clarify.
– Last Updated: Nov-22-08 11:37 PM EST –
You are a recognized authority on this subject, and it would be fascinating to be privy to your thoughts. I'm sure it can get esoteric, but can you lay it on us 'layman's style'?
wenoka squeeze lock
If you are still reading this thread and are still looking for a knife, check out this knife. You can get it in titanium or stainless. This will be a knife you will not be using all the time so when you do if you need to it will not be that hard to touch up the edge. This knife is almost built for kayaking. It has a secure sheath with double side locks like a diving knife. Double sided blade with a blunt tanto end, serated on one side for quick cutting of rope a with built in line hook. The other side is straight edge. Will mount to PFD or just about anywhere else you find convenient.
Short summary
My Opinion
OK-cheapest good possibilities
- For keeping on a life vest-Mora stainless in a plastic sheath-$10
2.For “survival” Ontario Rat 2nd in D-2 $25.
3.Hunting knife- Cold steel Canadian Belt Knife $14.95.
- Pocket clip lock blade ignoring cost ATS-134 linerlock from A.G. Russel.$-Too Much
I Own all 4.
Warning— Don’t buy a good steeled knife unless you are prepared to be spoiled.I lost an ATS-34 knife at a campsite in the ADKs and HAD to get another!
Turtle
Ex knife maker
I have made eighty-five knives, mostly of 01(carbon) tool steel or ATS-34(stainless). If any steel does not have a high carbon content, it will not hold an edge nearly as well. Carbon knives are generally much quicker to field sharpen. Larger knives such as a Bowie or ones used to chop or pry will not be hardened to as high of a Rockwell number. Many of the less expensive stainless steels(lower carbon content)are used because they can be stamped out easier during mass production.
I have had great service from ATS-34 around water. One of these knives is fixed handmade & the other a Spyderco folder. Still, I like to carry a fixed carbon blade for hiking & camping, along with a tiny stainless pocket knife. I would feel naked without my tiny pocket buddy & never, never leave home without it. Try to stick with a quality fixed blade while on the water. This may prove far more important than if you pick carbon or stainless.
!#@^$ filter
– Last Updated: Nov-29-08 1:23 PM EST –
I tried to post a link to the page that Spyderco had that described different knife steels and alloys and my company filter blocked it because of the word "wepins" (misspelled or get blocked again?) A knife is always a wepin, right?
Besides heat treat and alloy, sharpening consistancy is important to keeping a good edge. I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker to always produce a consistant angle on the edge, followed by a strop on an old piece of boot leather with jewelers rouge. Shaving sharp, long lasting edge on my 154CM Benchmade. I have an AUS8 fixed blade by Bob Terzuola that also keeps an excellent edge. In a good alloy the things that make it "stainless" or corrosion resistant are the chromium, molybdenum, and nickel. These alloys also enhance toughness, wear resistance, hardness, and machinability. A GOOD stainless is high carbon on steroids.
How about Kershaw?
Specifically the Scallion. How is the steel in these knives?
Kitchen knife
Hey there. Check out my website. www.artisancutlery.net
I am a knifemaker in Mesa AZ who personally favors high carbon tool steel above a “stain-less” alloy. The performance and abilities just can’t be matched by the elements added to make the steel “corrosion-proof”. The added visual character of the oxidized patina on good carbon steel actually forms a barrier against further corrosion as well… I have several pics of knives currently available. I have a huge number of pictures of past work I have sold to be put up on a seperate page, and a large number of kitchen blade models I’m currently constructing.
Send me an email to the link at the top of all the web-pages and we’ll see what we can come up with for the perfect kitchen knife/set we can cook up for you.