If I remove the foam pillar I can do this method. Then I could use all the original parts and that would be nice. And my float bags would easily fill that space.
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I cut my composite hull open installed the two nuts. It was in front also but I was refinishing the hull anyway. I had a bulkhead so I couldn’t stick my head in the hatch hole and see forward. Hard to get long dowel in hatch it would have been 4’. Some times you may need to put a dowel in and add pieces or bend it to go it far enough to reach.
Oh no, I’m pretty sure I have a piece of dowel of the necessary length in my garage at this moment. The box end wrench is a different question, it’s a pretty small nut.
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Being comfortable is key to success. Even if you bend your legs slightly you’ll get tired fast as you try to work inside. If I’m comfortable I can do work inside the hull with ease.
Need to buy a box wrench for the nut the fits and is flat not angle on the end like most are. Ones that you get with furniture cheap ass light ones are best.
SPEEDWOX Mini Combination Wrench Set，10 Pcs Ignition Wrench Set，Standard SAE, 5/32-7/16", Open End and Box End Spanner With Portable Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KZV4N56/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JJ5BXRZZ0DJA91R1EV57?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bend it 100% flat if need be. Maybe able we to buy just the one size you need on eBay. But a set is cheap and handy. Determine if it’s metric or SAE first.
My first thought is the previously mentioned wellnut. I used them to install a carry handle on a plastic boat and they worked great. Is there a reason that can’t work?
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Poly boats are much thicker and stronger would be my thoughts. Maybe someone else has used them in the thermoformed hull?
I personally like to put things back the way they were. When I did mine people offered me a few ideas but I just wanted it to look 100% OEM. Well nut is 60 second job.
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I’d be concerned about the strength of the plastic and would want the additional support of a washer to spread the load. The well nut looks like it would work best in composite boats. Here’s some manufacturer info:
" *Pro Tip: While well nuts are an excellent and versatile fastener, their grip is almost exclusively based off of the deformed rubber forming a hold over and inside of a hole. Due to this, well nuts have a weaker pull-out strength than many other fasteners and this consideration should be weighed when preparing for an installation."
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What would a 1/2" hole compromise PD52?, the toggle bolt locking bar is like 2" across, no way that is going to pull out.
If you can get the old one off, you can also go with a 3/16" toggle bolt to replace it. It would require enlarging the hole a bit though and using a fender washer and maybe a little silicone to seal it from the topside. You can get everything in stainless except the toggle itself probably.
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Foam has to be dealt with as a separate issue. That’s an easy solution. Not sure how tight the space is, but do you think you could could duct tape a 1/4 drive ratchet on a stick. Insert nut in a socket like Paddledog52 suggested, then put a bamboo skewer through the bolt hole to align the nut, push up to the hole and replace the skewer with the bolt. Success is slim but worth a shot if you have steady hands. The skewer would give a better chance to see. Double sided tape between washer and nut.
Pull out, no how will the toggle load against the inside of the hull? Toggles are made to load against flat surfaces.
You going to drill out your round deck line guide? What size is hole in guide. You need a 1/2" hole for 3/16" toggle.
Take the other screw out and the foam block will fall out of the way. If it is made like our Old Town was the foam has an aluminum plate stuck in it that the screw is threaded into. I took ours out and blew up a small yoga ball in place of it. Ours is more of a wide bow rec-kayak and a round yoga ball conformed to the space well. They also sell peanut shape yoga balls in a variety of sizes. You have an air bag so I would just replace the foam with sticking that down into the area more.
Once the foam is out take the advice to do it upside down with a helper turning the screw while you poke your head up and guide the nut stuck on the end of the tool of your choice. Once the nut bites in it wont spin and will tighten up. Remove the cord from the lug during this.
Be careful of anything poking thru that could puncture your air bag.
Here is the foam block and the ball I replaced it with. Much more bow flotation.
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I know that it’s a different kind of kayak and a different material and even a different kind of foam for the pillar, but… Does it seem like your front deck has lost support at all or in any way since removing the foam?
If the boat has no watertight bulkheads, the foam is to prevent the kayak from sinking if completely swamped. If only a rear watertight bulkhead is present it with prevent a “Cleopatra’s needle” outcome where the kayak ends up vertical in the water with only the stern sticking up. Nearly impossible to rescue or tow to shore in deep water. It’s debatable if a foam block will provide enough floatation to get the kayak high enough above the water to allow a self rescue and pump the water out, but it will save the boat.
The foam block does not add any appreciable structural strength in the bow or stern of a kayak. That is where the boat is strongest anyway. It can be safely replaced by a float bag or other means of floatation.
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Someone from FB hooked me up with someone who worked at Perception when my kayak was made and he had answers. The foam block was primarily for support during shipping, when kayaks are stacked to the top of the trailer/container and it gets really hot.
I have oversized float bags that will completely fill the bow space right up to the footpegs, so I’ve got the floatation issue solved.
I talked to a guy from Perception. I’m confident about removing the foam pillar now. So I’m going to do that and try to use the wrench on a stick technique to reattach the original nut.
And I think that I’m going to be able to use the hole from the foam pillar screw for a nice GoPro mount. Using very wide washers.
Better with suction cup mount and tethering mount to a deck line. If hit hard it will pop and not damage your deck. Tether will keep you from losing the camera JMHO. Just plug hole with short bolt.