but don't forget that wetted surface is actually less for short fat boats, as compared to long skinny boats, generally. It's not an advantage for the long skinny boats (if that's where you were going with this question).
That boat has been discussed on here before, you can probably find info if you search. It's probably fine for the usages shown in the pictures on the website, if those interest you, but touring, under paddle power only, would certainly not be one of them.
Stability is initial and secondary, and covered in writings in the Guidelines, lest us forget, and perhaps confuse a newby. I think what this post has been about is initial stability from wetted surface area, and its relationship to length, given the same type of hull shape. A craft with mostly initial stability will also be mostly flat, and if you lean on either side, there is some good resistance at first. Problem is, if you lean a little more, that craft will be gone out from under you so fast you won’t believe it! A good wave can flip you over the same! Secondary stability has less resistance at first, but increases in resistance as you lean into a side. A combination in design is ideal for most people, although there are paddlers who favor the extremes. Typically flat hulls are for fishing and hunting, and round hulls for white water play. In between are hulls for touring and recreation craft. If you like the flatter craft, you might want to test the leaning point sometime, and flip it, so you know where that flip point is. Best to inform anyone else with you of what will happen if you get to that leaning point again. Just a tip, and I would recommend reading all of the writings in the Guidelines for more descriptions. Oh, the somewhat rounded hulls are much more fun to paddle - faster and more efficient.