I tried posting a rolling video several years ago with music. A series of different rolls in time with the music.
I got in kicked off several times before I just gave up.
As far as Vimeo…I quit even watching anything done on that because my internet is too slow . I can watch just about anything else … but Vimeo takes me forever and wants to keep stopping. I have a DSL black box.
Vimeo reminds me of when I had dial up…
Thanks for the update! sounds hectic, but I am sure you will get things sorted for the shop even better than before. And now that late fall is here, the distraction from actual kayaking will be lessened, at least a bit.
Funny that YouTube would complain about your background music… I have a YouTube playlist of 100+ songs that I listen to all the time. None of them are “official” versions, they are all songs that someone made videos for (some are just a still picture) and uploaded. Many proclaim openly in the verbiage that they do not own the copyrights… occasionally one of them will become unavailable, I just do a quick search for the song in question and add back one of the many versions available.
NotThePainter, I just looked at my 2x4 test blank and it was a good pick. After a week, it’s still straight but heavy, so I’m going to let it dry a little longer. Still waiting for the 5/4 fir.
Here’s what I sent in my dispute letter:
This is a woodworking video and I have the song playing in the background. You can’t even hear it when I’m talking or doing wood stuff, you can only hear it when I pause.
This is an incidental capture of just parts of the song. Entire sections of the song were removed when I edited down the raw footage from my wood shop.
Only part of the song can be heard in the background. The song is transformed by removing random sections. My wood working video is not a substitute for listening to the actual song.
I’ve bolded the key parts.
Hopefully, there’s somebody at YouTube with half a brain who will understand.
actually, youtube just sends it to the company that holds the rights. But yes, lets hope that…
NotThePainter, my 5/4 fir blank came in with rif grain. Only thing stopping me now is time. I’ve done the research, know the dimensions, and I’ve sequenced the steps in my head. Except for the bandsaw, everything else will be hand planes and final finishing will be with a card scraper.
what’s “rif” grain?
You don’t need the bandsaw. (Says the man who wants a bandsaw. LOL!)
I’ve been watching Rex Kruger on YouTube, he’s a big hand tools woodworker.
I think JYak may mean rift sawn, as opposed to flat sawn and quarter sawn. If so, this may help those not familiar:
Flat Sawn vs. Quarter Sawn Lumber - OHC
Bandsaw is a very good tool, worth getting in my opinion. Not needed for those preferring hand tool work, but a nice supplement for those who would rather avoid some of the tedious grunt work of resawing and such by hand. I love having one, it is the only stationary tool in my shop.
How about making a greenland paddle with just a hatchet?
Carving a Greenland Kayak Paddle - Using ONLY a Hatchet | What is a Hatchet Good For? - YouTube
Correct GregoDelaware. Thanks for catching that. I type on a phone and the fine print is hard to catch. I need to watch my spell checker.
I’ve seen it referred to as verticle grain, rift and quarter sawn. Much of the wood today is simply cut into slabs then cut into widths. That yields mostly plain or flat sawn lumber, with true rift sawn at the top and bottom of the tree center. Rift is stronger, but equally important is that rift dimensionally has less movement.
You mentioned hatchet, which I assume you are suggesting the advantage of splitting the wood along the grain to get the strongest use of the wood fiber. Great way to go.
For aspiring woodworkers, imagine a baseball bat. The strong striking edge of the bat is the opposing sides with close grain. If the ball is struck on the plain sawn side that has wide cathedral grains, the bat can shatter. If you can only find boards that are plain sawn, cutting the wood into straips then gluing them together is a good option. Of course that means having the tools. What GregoDeleware is suggesting means having a sharp tool, preferably a broad hatchet, and the knowledge.
Working with wood is very rewarding. There is so much talent and information on the forum. If someone wants to build a paddle, it can be done with a limited number of tools. Bandsaw are fantastic, but one costs several hundreds of dollars. A $159 jigsaw works just as well. Use a blade like the Bosch blade that has no kerf. It cuts clean and straight. Some jigsaws like Bosch and Festool have adjustable guides that keep the blade perpendicular to the cutting surface. Then a combination square, a good hand plane, and a spokeshave is all you need - and time. Learn to sharpen the plane blade and you’re set.
While “quarter sawn” and “vertical grain” are the same thing, “rift sawn” is not. Quarter sawn wood has grain that is perpendicular - or nearly so - to the wide side of the board. Rift sawn wood has grain that’s 30-60 degrees to the wide side of the board. On the higher angle end, rift sawn wood can make a decent paddle, but it’s not ideal.
Here’s an example of vertical grain wood.:
ALL saw blades create a kerf; it’s the material that’s removed when sawing and ends up as sawdust. Perhaps you were referring to the “set” of the teeth.
While a jigsaw can certainly do the job, even a high quality jigsaw like my Bosch can still suffer from some blade wander on the bottom side when cutting thick stock like a paddle blank. The blades flex and the guides can’t prevent that. If you use a jigsaw, you need to cut farther outside the layout lines than you do when using a bandsaw, but you can still remove the bulk of the excess wood.
A bandsaw can also be used to rough-cut the tapers on the wide sides of the blades, which can’t be done with a jigsaw.
You don’t need a large bandsaw for making paddles. Although I have 10", 14" and 18" bandsaws, for paddles I typically use the 10" saw. That said, there are a couple of other considerations:
Craiglist can be a good source for used tools at reasonable prices. Bandsaws need to be properly set up for best results, so it’s worth reading up on them before buying one.
I got tired of the wandering blade on jigsaw. I draw the paddle on the blank and the local wood shop band saws it for a nominal fee.
ooooh! That man is my hero, just an axe?
This isn’t as silly as it seems. We watch a YouTuber, Jim Baird, that does a lot of remote canoeing, and in one episode he made a rough, single blade, canoe paddle with just an ax. He started with a log, not a 2x4. This isn’t a silly as it sounds, you might be hundreds of miles from civilization and you’ve lost both your paddles. So you carve a new one.
Oh I’m just joking. When I was halfway through my paddle I said, to myself, this is the last time I’ll work with just hand tools. I want a bandsaw (and a planer and jointer etc…). But listening to Rex Kruger, I dunno, maybe just slow down, make fewer items, but with fewer tools. I dunno.
I agree with that to a large extent. But I also do not do well with tedious boring work. So for me, the bandsaw does that type of stuff, smile, leaving me to do the more fun stuff. Or when it is not a labor of love, but a “just get er done” task, I am happy to have the bandsaw to move more quickly, on jobs not needing fine work. Rex Kruger, Rob Cosman, and Paul Sellers are all good to watch, lots of helpful insight from all of them, each with a different perspective and approach.
exactly! Making one paddle with hand tools is, for me, lots of fun. It’s hard to imagine making a dozen of them this way! I also want to get into lamination, both for beauty and to broaden my selection of wood, and I just don’t have the skills to cut that well.
