more on glass repair

Glass then fabric … you might find
the same pattern @ your local fabric store even though various paddle companies claim exclusivity to patterns , NOT the case…

We have had customers supply exact same fabric as Swift for paddles.

If you want to jazz up a hull or deck
then the same I imagine of glass first then cloth? Is it fair to say that how well the cloth absorbs the resin into it’s fibers is the key to having success with this or not? Did you ever post any pics of the print cloth hull and deck boats you did do?



I would like to thank you for the various pieces of technical information you have regularly shared on this board. For me it has been a hobby and sometimes one thread with key information can make a major difference between success and failure.

No worries…
The fabric boats got done years ago and I have no idea where they are now.



Glass first when working with a mold. This is much easier to do than the reverse on a boat.



If sprucing up a ( already completed ) boat for looks the fabric could go right ontop then a ply or 4oz or less just to smooth everything out. This glass can often be wet out from the oversaturated fabric which works by getting said fabric smoothed out anyway… The Fabric must NOT have any creases, wrinkles or heavy folds BEFORE saturation … iron it if you have to. Also the fabric edges tend to curl up so suggest doing this from edge to edge on hull / deck with as little open edge as poss… hard to fair in without tapping the fabric. Glass should hold it down flat but that comes back to the babysit part above about fabric creeping… hope I spelled that right.



If working this fabric into new boat construction assume little if any structural stuff will be gained and get all the heavy structural stuff behind the pretty Fabric+4oz. consolidating ply.