Looked at the Fit, but it just didn't appeal to me. I don't think I want a hatchback, anyway.
I like the Hyundai Elantra; however, Yakima doesn't make towers that fit the 2009 I was looking at. They did make them for the 2008.
I also like the 2010 Toyota Corolla, but neither Yakima nor Thule can fit it yet.
This is a deal breaker, because hauling my canoe is the most important thing my car does, not to mention, it is where I store my canoe.
Hoping my Saturn doesn't have any more surprises for a while.
edit: also, both the Elantra and the Corolla can tow 1500 lbs, in case there is a small camper in my future.The Honda salesman said the Fit could tow a small trailer....but I think I trust billinpa's info more.
markup on used cars There is a greater profit on used cars at the dealer asking price. I highly recommend bringing along a relative who has experience in sales or training as a negotiator. I have bought many used cars at new car dealers and the most I have ever paid was about 63% of the asking price, always in cash. Many were bought at exactly 50% of the asking price. First step is to determine that the car is perfect - no accidents, no repairs needed etc (must take to mechanic before negotiation), then prepare for 3 days of negotiation. Don’t fall in love with it on the lot. The car my daughter is driving can serve as an example:
a 2002 Chevy Prizm (Toyota Corolla twin) that I bought as a 3 year old car in March, 2005 in perfect condition with 25K miles, at a new car dealer, listed for 10,295 and after the dust settled 3 days later, mine for $5750, with a warranty. Four and a half years and 80K miles later, it has yet to have a single problem. Be polite, firm, and walk out when you reach an impasse (they will call you back). It can be exhausting for someone not familiar with the game, but it is worth the trouble. Do you know a former car salesman, realtor, someone in sales, etc. that you can bring along?
Good advice! Best part, be prepared to walk. Usually, if they let you walk they think they can get more. AS posted let them call you back. If the phone doesn’t ring - move on.
One more thing- car sales is a month by month industry. You will do much better price wise buying a car at 8pm on the last day of the month then you will do at 8am on the first day of the month. Best deals are had at the end of the month, and very best within a few hours of closing on the last day of the month.
The salesmen often have incentives and are trying to reach sales targets before the end of the month.
One of my most loved little cars was a 87 VW Golf, one of the last built in the US (PA), that was perfectly reliable, simple and easy to maintain. The dealer let me take it home over the Thanksgiving holiday 1990 because I told him I wasn't sure how my wife would find the lack of power steering (no problem), and when I returned for a full day of negotiation, I got that car for 3750, when it was listed at 6888. I also got them to double the used warranty but didn't need it. The previous owner had every service interval stamped with a senior citizen discount and he later sent me all receipts. The owner of the dealership also offered me a job (which I appreciated but declined).
Wow, I had an '87 Golf and it was the biggest POS I’ve ever owned. I didn’t know I could hate a car so much I wanted to kick it. I guess I got lucky and got the lemon in the bunch. I traded it in '92 for a Civic hatchback.
I think the Cash for Clunkers has messed me up a little here, because there’s been a big demand for the cars I’m interested in. There are no Matrixes available at all right now in this area.
I am only looking at new cars at this point. And the Hyundai dealer has one best price, no negotiating, and their sales reps don’t work on commission, so I like that. I hate the whole negotiating game. My niece, however, loves it, and she’s talking to Toyota dealers in several other Florida cities.
But I’m not buying anything I can’t put my Yakima racks on, anyway.
Did I mention a used Camry.Took it to the lake today with the Tarpon on it. Acted like the boat wasn’t there.Power, great road car,good mileage.Should have seen me whipping through the curves in the Tn. mountains 3 weeks ago with 2 boats on it.
vw’s haha - I got the only good one. Your experience is the more common one with that car. I bought it right after the original owner got gouged by his VW dealer for the 60K service. They even replaced his battery with a VW battery and after his senior discount, it was still about $1200 worth of service. Based on the date of service and the miles, he must have driven it from the servicing VW dealer down the street to the Toyota dealer where he traded it in, and I stumbled into it all on the same day. So when I bought it, everything had been replaced plus it had power nothing to go bad and a 5-speed manual. I put over 100K more miles on it and sold it for 2500, with only normal routine maintenance - so that was one of my lowest cost per mile cars ever, almost as cheap as the '68 Dart I had in grad school.
One of the secrets to auto longevity is fanatic devotion to maintenance & repair. I just got in from helping my son replace the transmission cooling line hoses on his 94 subaru (that he bought from me 5 years ago for his high school & college car). Once we got the old hoses off, I realized that they would probably have held up fine, but now the new ones are good for another 15 years…When in doubt, I replace parts myself before they fail and replace fluids religiously.
cash for clunkers Sissy - you’re right about the C4C satisfying pent-up demand for new cars. The time to buy new was this spring when Congress was first discussing getting their act together on the clunker bill. The deals will be better if you wait until business returns to normal and inventories build up again. The dealers are too busy selling at little discount right now too. Ford is even ramping up production of the Focus and Escape due to the high demand.
Its a bad time to buy new if you don’t have a qualifying clunker. I’ve discovered that its also a bad time to buy a clunker. I’m looking for an old pickup with a v-8 to tow my powerboat and the 10-15 year old models I want are being destroyed as clunkers. I have to hope I can find one that didn’t qualify.
Sissy - FL internet fixed price dealer Sissy - Is Clearwater convenient at all to you? The best internet fixed price dealer in the US is www.fizmall.com (Jack Fitzgerald owns these dealerships in several states). I am not connected to them in any way - except as a satisfied customer. Even if you don’t shop there, use the prices on the Fitzmall site and try to get anyone else to match them. I bought my Outback from them in MD - the price and experience was top-notch. Perfect place for someone who doesn’t like to negotiate. They sell Hyundai, Subaru and Suzuki in Clearwater.
Thank you, I checked on the Hyundai price ($13,735 invoice, about the same as the local dealer here who offers “one price, no negotiating.” Also looked at the link that String sent, and that is helpful, too.
Still staggering from sticker shock, I’m now reeling at the news of my little old Saturn being worth so very little on trade-in. Looks like I’ll only get around $450 for it. I think I’d rather give it away to someone who really needs a car.
Try negotiating anyway At the end of the day the one price guys are car dealers. if put up against a wall some will crack. it’s worth a try.
I have to agree that now is the wrong time to buy new. Dealers are flush with customers. They don’t have to sell to you because there are 10 people in line behind you. It classic supply and demand. Wait for it cool off. Get your ducks in a row, know exactly what you want, and shop at the end of the month. Preferably November thru January when things are slow every year.
Ducks in a row I do still want to take a look at the Matrix, and I know the Corolla or Elantra would both do fine once Yakima comes up with clips for them.
My AAA Plus gives me four 100 mile tows/year, and most of my paddling is done within a 100 mile radius. I may just drive this Saturn until the next time it needs towing (only once in 148,000 miles so far) or expensive work done, and trade it then; probably won’t make much difference whether it is running or not
Since I am not working, I can do without a car for a few days if I have to—grocery, library, YMCA are all within a walk or bike ride of home, and I can paddle the lake out back if I can’t go anywhere else.
There has been much good and thoughtful advice on this thread, and I sure do appreciate everyone who has taken the time to respond. Very, very helpful.
Have we met? You sure know what’s important to me—the car supports the clips that supports the racks that carry the canoe to get me to the river—yeehaw! Paddle on.