Hmmmm, I have read reviews that mention the Pamlico did not have a bulkhead. I don’t know what year they added it but it must have been after 2007. Are you sure yours is that old? You can decode your serial number to find out.
I will try that glue to put those pieces back in and try to add some pool noodles. Only been out on it once but it was rock solid stable and I have read in reviews that it is very stable so hopefully I won’t be in the water too often lol.
Jim
With the shelter in place order most of my boats are in storage at my farm, so I can’t run out and check the serial number on the Pamlico. But I think I would see about adding a bulkhead to yours if it has a hatch anyway. My Pamlico has a leaky bulkhead but still does well so long as I do not exceed it’s weight limit. I have had people dump it and swamp it, but it still recovers well for a rec boat.
My first two kayaks were a Pamlico 135 and a Loon 130, so I can take my kids out fishing, or for me to fish alone (the Loon does better for that).
As others have noted, adding flotation is THE most important safety measure you can take. On one of my fishing trips, I watched and paralleled a father and young son painstakingly swim/push their overturned canoe to shore which had the most minimal foam blocks on the bow and stern. Good thing it was the middle of summer and the water was warm (and they had on PFDs). That left an impression.
To me, one of the most versatile approaches to flotation is to use float bags with attachment points. These can inflated fully when you are alone, or deflated enough to accommodate another passenger or gear. If you happen to flip, you can orally re-inflate to help before attempting water clearing and re-entry.
Here is my pack canoe (basically an undecked kayak) with attachment points and flotation.
sing
Wow thanks for the great info. Exactly what I was looking for.
Jim
What type of bags do you use? I see some on Amazon but they look like they might not be very durable.
Jim
I brought a roll of heat sealable nylon over a decade ago, for making custom float boats for skin of frame (SOF) kayaks, canoes and as backup to SOT bulkheads. The roll is about used up.
Reality is that, unless you have a lot of boats (mine breed behind the shed), you are better off just ordering from an online retailer. Measure what you think would fit/need for the bow and stern, and then check out NRS. I think NRS has the most variety of sizes. https://www.nrs.com/category/3049/kayak-touring/float-bags
sing
Here is a video by a NorCal kayak shop showing the difference between non-bulkhead boat and bulkhead boat.
Can’t seem to get the video to play but I found one on Youtube that explained it thank you.
Jim
I’m just making an assumption here, but I would THINK that the very presence of that rear hatch/storage space would dictate that—once upon a time—this particular boat HAD to of had a rear bulkhead.
Wilderness Systems makes quality yaks, & it just seems unfathomable that a company of their ilk would integrate a “dry” storage hatch w/o sealing it in w/ a rear bulkhead 
That said, you know what they say about making assumptions … just my 2¢
Additionally, I’ll second the floatation bag(s).
& if it’s of any interest, check out Watershed’s Stowfloat bags
https://www.drybags.com/bags/waterproof-bags-and-packs/waterproof-kayak-bags/
They are unique in that they are both bombproof dry bags AND float bags (Made in the USA).
They are DEF a hefty investment when compared to the straight up float bag offerings of NRS or Harmony, but these are of such quality & craftsmanship that these bags will last years—if not decades when properly cared for.
(Watershed produces dry bag equipment for the US Military).
Actually, when I bought my my pamlico (first “kayak”) in 2000, there was no hatch and certainly no bulkheads. Just foam pillars in the bow and stern. Thus, I outfitted with float bags when I learned how important that was/is just keep the kayak from getting almost totally submerged. One can at least climb on top of the kayak bottom of an overturned pamlico and be somewhat out of the water.
sing
Float bags have gromets you can put some 550 cord through. Just drill a hole in the hull and tie it in. I’d post pics but software won’t let me.
There we go…
Most newer boat owners are reluctant to drill holes in their boat, even plastic. I did not suggest it for that reason. But maybe should have.
We bought a 135T and are thinking of putting an electric motor on back. Is this possible?
I don’t believe the Tarpon 135T would physically/structurally accommodate any sort of motor.
WS does have a couple/few models of angler SOTs that are designed to accommodate small, electric trolling motors—set midship.
But the Tarpon—in the stern—w/ the deep storage bay back there … I don’t feel like it is intended/designed for a motor mount.
