Kris, roger that… a Bou-S
This is why…
http://www.paddling.net/message/showThread.html?fid=chat&tid=169525
at the risk of placing myself…
in the middle of this ongoing love spat between greyak and kwikle, I’ll concur with most of the things you have put forth kris.
I am the friend mentioned by kwikle in the above post (at least I hope thats me)and believe that I obtained my 700 about the same time as you. I have bemoaned most of the little details that you have obviously had the time, energy and motivation to fix. I’ve been lurking about following your qcc posts for a while now (wasn’t going to touch the footbrace one with a ten foot paddle)and must say that this latest fix has me truly impressed.
btw - I also use a gp with my 700 - if for no other reason than to appear schizophrenic.
Congrats!
I’ll comment on your other thread i missed…
Schizos
OK that’s three in the QCCGP sub-cult.
As for time, energy, and motivation - I’ve really invested little of any. I think things to death - then by the time I decide to execute it all just seems to go together.
Not being in a hurry with the tweaks lets you weed out what to change and what is fine. More time in the boat means better choices too. You should call it smart, not lazy.
I too read all the QCC posts here. It’s easy to form an opinion that there are all these huge issues with QCC - as I did while waiting for mine - but most are blown out of proportion. I had concerns about several - until I found I had none of the trim issues, and no rudder so none of the mount drag stuff either.
Looking back at my list - only the foam job took any real time - maybe a few hours total. The backband - 5 minutes - and another hour playing with it. Deck line - 10 min. Bungies/balls - 5 min.
Skeg took 2 hours - most of that just looking and thinking as I wasn’t sure what I was doing and figured it out as I went (plus some time to order trim cointrol and stop at boat store for the one small part and criming tool I didn’t have). Quite amazed whe it assembled and was exactly right in operation. Nice coincidence the distance of the trim control travel and the distance needed to raise the skeg are the same!
To do it again (or with what I know now - as seen in the pictures I put up) - should take about 45 min or less (about half getting the old stuff out).
Can I join “Schizos”…
If I paddle the “Bou” with a “wing”?.. GH
Warning
Now that your fast SOT talked you into a new SINK - that new SINK may talk you into a GP! With chines like that!
I was actually ganged up on as I had the GP before the SINK - and it openly demanded a new boat worthy of it - at the same time the fast SOT was not really living up to my plans for it!
Whatever you do - DON’T try my carbon GP! Light as your Epic wing and just as expensive! Pure evil.
No way…
…can I try anybodys anything for a long time, not boats, not paddles, not cars… NOTHING…
please God…
Flashlight confirms
the cable arcs back into the box if the skeg goes up over an obstacle - lever stays put. Does not appear to be enough bend/motion to kink or damage the cable, adn the skeg box pretty much makes sure cable stays in the blade. The “worst case” above is more of a Murphy’s Law sort of thing.
KayjakSport pedals
Yeah, I was thinking about those. Thanks for the vote of confidence. I will probably order a set soon (assuming that I don’t win the QCC in the sweepstakes!)
Jim
Seal Line Trim Tab
Nice job on the modifications. The pull-pull cable system sure makes a lot more sense than push-pull systems or rope and bungee.
I seem to recall that the original trim control that Seal Line made was a recessed knob of some sort. I don’t see it on their web site, but if you could find one, it could mounted flush with the side of the hull, eliminating any drag caused by the lever.
Thanks B. Drag?
Hey, this ain’t no LV skin boat man! I’d have to load a months gear to get that little lever close to the waterline and I’m quite a load already! L. Waves and chop on it won’t do anything. It’s much smaller than my thumb (and I have small hands).
Or did you mean catch on something? Could possibly snag a web strap or something on it during a re-entry, but it’s pretty tight to the hull (note: the lever mounts so close to the hull it has cutouts to clear the small mounting screw heads! - see top closeup).
Spring loaded blade really limits the options as the tension is constant. I’m lucky this worked. Doubly luck it worked so well. Triply lucky is was so easy to do.
Recessing it somewhere would be nice, but It’s so small that it’s really not worth a big hole in the hull. I was just happy it took up same room as the old cleat and ball.
I considered mounting it where the trim tab normally goes - top dead center - and had also looked at moving it off to the right side of the deck. Either way the box and cable is in a more active area of the cockpit. I keep my pump under the center above my under deck bag. Off to the side it would be by my knee. Either means more cable, more interference (above and below deck), more holes (and more on the shear to patch). Also, I’d have to reach more for it, and think I’d whack it with GP if on deck too. Deck’s already 12". Where it is now is easier to reach, out off my way, and a cleaner install.
Mostly sharing the thought above process for the few who are thinking of doing this, rather than simply responding to Brian’s questions/comments. Other locations or even glassing in a recessed well might be good options for some.
Thanks for the details
You mention that the skeg is spring loaded. With the double pull cable, what need is there for a spring? Can you remove it?
Single cable
It only has one cable.
Spring force pops skeg out (“drops” being a misleading term here) - cable hauls it up. No push-pull.
With the new control - the only differnce between up and down is a little bit more resistance on the up.
Ignore the little cable tail coming out of the control in the pics. Just there to make it easy to disassemble/reassemble.
The trim tab control would work on a loop system too of there were some sort of two point connection on the skeg - but it would need a double cable run. More cable and more connection = no more reliable.
Spring system is less parts - and I already had the spring blade sytem installed in the skeg box (stock). I did not have to remove the blade or mess with the spring at all to intall the new system. Just replaced the old cable/cord with all cable (all enclosed in new tubing) - and replaced cleat/ball with trim tab.
Neat idea
I got the Rudder for my Second QCC, with the TOP pin mounted System, so no crap hanging off the end. i was just wondering if anybody has used the trim tab as a trim tab? does it work good?
Iceman has on his Isthmus
Which he also converted to a SealLine rudder. Pretty creative job mounting it in a composite SOT cockpit.
Should work great if you do open crossings with steady winds and find yourself applying constant steay pressure.
If you really want feedback you should start another thread on the SealLine TrimTab. Most that have them won’t be frequenting a skeg thead.
yeah
good point.