Newbie with hauling questions

I think I got that concept…
but I would love more info on what type of webbing he uses… and where he gets it.

It seems that would be perfect since you could attach it on the sides of the hood, wherever you needed to from front to back for positioning of the lines…

Better yet, have him send me some too! :slight_smile:

like this??
Hey, as I was surfing on the topic, I found this…

Seems like what your buddy was talking about…

preventing forward slide
You need to take precautions to prevent the canoe from sliding forward off the rack during a sudden stop.

Your canoe is probably nearly as wide 2 1/2 ft in front of and behind the center, as it is at center. Ropes or straps placed over the hull and around your 2 x 4 crosspieces can easily “walk” outwards on the crossbars so that the whole boat can slide forward on the rack if you stop suddenly.

A line from the rear stem of an overhanging boat to the vehicle will not prevent forward movement of the canoe, and often neither will one coming down vertically to the vehicle even when there is no overhang.

If you are only planning on hauling the one boat, you could install eyebolts on the crossbars spaced appropriately to just acommodate the gunnel width of the canoe at the points at which they cross the bars when the canoe is centered, or you could drill holes in the crossbars through which to feed a rope.

I would also recommend that you run a line from the rear end of the boat forward and around a thwart that is in front of one of the crossbars, then bring it back and tie it to the crossbar. That arrests forward motion of the canoe in a sudden stop.

And yes, I have seen a number of boats launched forward onto the hoods of vehicles even when a stern tie down was used, when this type of precaution was not taken.

Exactly !
You can find webbing @ any decent hardware store. It comes in different widths & colors. Guessing it’s nylon ?

No problem…
I am planning to just drill a hole in the hull, and run some all thread down through my wooden cross members… that should hold it in place…


Sorry couldn’t resist the joke. But I do get your point and will consider that in my strapping.

The other thing that you will probably experience is considerable side to side yaw of the ends of your boat with crosswinds, or when passing, or being passed by a semi on the highway. Imagine your canoe secured with only a single rope or strap at the center belly. You could push the canoe ends side to side a considerable distance. The further out towards the ends the canoe is secured, the less tendency there is to yaw. Your belly straps will be close together.

Obviously, your end lines will help but a single end line will still allow considerable yaw. It’s best to use 2 independent lines on each end in a triangulated fashion to reduce the side to side mobility.

I heard you mention the angle bars …
… before in a previous reply … I still suggested the gusset system , and still do , but it’s your thing .

Anyway , check to make sure the front of your canoe (pointy end) doesn’t get a chance to put a dent in your hood when raised up .

The cams don’t fail !
You should have told your friends to maintain them properly.

They didn’t, and there for don’t blame the cams.- Blame your friends or yourself for not knowing it.

They need to be be cleaned and lubricated periodically.

Especially if used a lot around salt water.

A properly working camlock buckle won’t fail if when it is pulled up tight and a little tug on the back side of the buckle with one finger is applied.



I am planning to double tie (triangular fashion)each end to the truck.


– Last Updated: Apr-24-09 7:52 AM EST –

I didn't mean to sound disagreeable, I just didn't know if you read that part.

I ended up getting the 10" angle brackets mostly because the is no flush side to the uprights that lines up with a flush side on the crossbar. I made a 2x4 sized hole in the upright, but centered it. So the crossbar which is on edge for strength, lines up in the middle of the upright. Therefore I am not sure how I could attach a gusset in that arrangement.

I guess I could attach some OSB strips to the side of the cross member to build the crossbar out to the edge of the upright, but I am not sure how exact it would be... I will keep thinking about this idea though, I could probably make it work, the more I think of it. Are you suggesting this because you are convinced that it would be stronger?

yes, extremely strong but more …
… by using a solid corner gusset (at all corner intersections preferably), you will achieve maximum lateral shift resistence , this form of integrity will be as close to “solid” form as posible . In this fashion you are addressing shear loads in a 3-Deminsional way .

I understand you bored through the vertical O/C and placed the horizontal into the bore (2x4) … you can fasten a 1-1/2"x1-1/2"x 8+" to the vertical post directly under the horizontal cross member , this allowing a mating surface on the verticals for the gussets (it is a good idea to use an exterior grade glue when mating wood surfaces , as well as screws or bolts).

I got it.

– Last Updated: Apr-24-09 11:44 AM EST –

Thanks for your suggestion, I will look at that when I get home tonight. How long of a leg of the triangle gusset would you recommend? 6"? 8"?

And would you recommend doing both sides of both ends? In other words two gussets for each end of a crossbeam, or is one sufficient?


best at “every” 90 degree intersection .
… I heard you mention you were considering horizontals running from front to rear (doesn’t have to be all the way at top , 1/2 way up or higher is sufficient also) … it’s a good idea , will tie them together . You can use a butt joint there if you add a gusset at those intersections also … you got the idea now , add them as and where you wish , can’t have too many .

8" , “A” and “B” legs should be enough , larger won’t hurt … “C” leg is the hypotenuse (longest side of a right triangle) .

for what it’s worth … A x A + B x B = C x C ,

or the length of side “C” , is the square root of the sum of , A x A + B x B (any right triangle , not nessasarily an equalateral right triangle , A and B legs can have different measurements as well , as long as they are perpendicular to each other the Pythagorean theorum works)

Glad you were here…
I got all the pythagorean theorem stuff… math was my strongest subject next to music through HS.

Once I put on the brakcets, I found that it did still move more than I would like. I think that was due to the screws not being able to pull into the bracket tightly enough to really secure things. So, I added the supports under the crossbeam and the gussets (14" on the upright leg, and 10" on the cross beam) as you suggested, and things definitely are rock solid now…

Actually it is a shame this canoe only weighs 75± pounds, because I believe that I could haul a small car up there now. :slight_smile:

Cam failure
I’m not doubting it can happen, but thank goodness I’ve never experienced it. I use cam straps, and after cinching tight I ALWAYS tie the long tag ends (that I have on purpose) as if it were a rope. This way, you can get your boat on and off very quickly, and it would require 2 points of failure to have a “roof off”. Works for me.

I agree with being overly cautious, the thought of taking someone’s life when an extra minute with a cheap rope could have prevented it? thanks. I’ll spend the time with a rope or strap.

Thought I would post the solution I came up with from various sources of inspiration.

If you are interested here is a link to where you can see the results. It works great even at highway speeds.