Oiling your Greenland paddle

Advice
#21

japan dryer

– Last Updated: Dec-29-11 3:43 PM EST –

Japan Dryer is available at a paint store. (probably not at the paint counter of a hardware store or home center though - go to a stand-alone paint store.)

As to why I prefer it over Tung oil? Except for a couple greenland paddles, all my wood finishing knowledge and experience is restricted to fine furniture. Over time, with exposure to light, linseed oil darkens wood more than Tung, and for my purposes that's desirable. (I mostly use oil finish prior to finishing with Shellac or Varnish, to make wood figure more prominent, and help the wood darken naturally).

I have read about the slightly higher mold-resistance of Tung, so that could be important for a kayak frame, as Wetzool pointed out. I have not had problems with my linseed-rubbed paddles though, and the only SOF kayak I've built got spar varnish on the frame. That's worked well.

Tung oil is über expensive, and much harder to find than boiled linseed oil. Mostly you will find "Tung Oil Finish" which is not tung oil. (sometimes it doesn't even have Tung oil in it!) Those imposters are basically runny polyurethane, or runny polyurethane with tung oil in them, thinned to the point that it can be wiped on with a rag. If you're paying less than $15-20 for a quart of tung oil, you're probably not buying tung oil. (Boiled linseed oil on the other hand costs about $20/gallon.)

The reason I don't like wiping varnishes for paddles, etc, is because they are film-finishes and thin ones at that. Film finishes can chip or flake. Yes, they provide more protection when intact, but if they get worn or whacked and moisture gets under the film, it can create problems and make more work when it's time to refinish. Basically, if you're willing to put in the time and maintenance that varnish requires, I'd recommend brushing on a heavier spar varnish or UV-protected urethane of some sort. But it's fussier than just wiping on some oil (and I don't like the feel in my hands as much either).

All that said, I'm sure there are a variety of opinions on this stuff, and while I have lots of experience with wood finishing, I have fairly little experience with kayak building and finishing, so take it with a grain of salt.

#22

apply it warm
You get more oil into the wood with each coat if you set the wood someplace warm, like under a halogen worklight, or near the woodstove.



Nate

#23

great tip about the warm enviroment…
Thanks Nate.

#24

Better yet…

– Last Updated: Dec-31-11 10:13 AM EST –

...apply the finish with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. You won't believe how smooth it comes out and how much it enhances the visibility of the grain. Then try 600 grit. It will be so pretty that you may hesitate to paddle with it!

#25

Perhaps it’s partially polymerized…
…which is the other method used to make linseed oil cure faster. Either way, there’s no need for Japan Drier, as it will cure quickly without it. Why add highly toxic chemicals if you don’t need to?

#26

Spontaneous Combustion
Have a bar owner near here who kept it immaculate wiping the bar constantly with linseed oil, Every night he’d wash and dry the “rags” in a washer and dryer and fold them. They still burned his bar down. He rebuilt with concrete block and stone. No, he did NOT have insurance.